tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32246407135498302212024-02-07T04:06:01.612+01:00It started in StuttgartHistory, photos, travel, stories of experiences on other shores, funny, serious and surprising. John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-1568362041469674312017-11-09T20:53:00.006+01:002023-05-27T01:16:22.123+02:00Detour into the Principality of Liechtenstein<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: large;">When I first started this blog some years ago, I began by committing to my own photos, stories and historical explanations of places located exclusively in Germany, beginning with Stuttgart, where I was living at the time. Well, although there are still hundreds of more possibilities within the state of Baden-Württemberg alone abo<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">ut w</span>hich much can be written and photographed, I have decided that it is time to throw in a couple of locations not only outside of this state, but the Federal Republic altogether. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">So, I am starting this out by presenting a place I had always wanted to visit when I was a kid. A place that not only has its own princely family, but also a real castle in which they live. A postage-stamp sized place that can be seen all in one day if you really want to cram everything in - not advised. Is it Monaco, home to the late Princess Grace, or perhaps the co-principality of Andorra? (Did you even know Andorra had "co-</span><span style="font-size: large;">princes"?) Nope, it's bigger than Monaco, Vatican City, and the most ancient Republic of San Marino combined, but smaller than Andorra. Ladies and gentlemen and other assorted readers, let's have a look at <a href="https://www.google.de/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=google+map+of+liechtenstein&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&gfe_rd=cr&ei=K2pqWdGsPOuA8QfnyoCQCQ" target="_blank"><b>Liechtenstein</b></a>, a sovereign nation so small yet rises rather suddenly a whopping 2599 meters (8526 ft.)</span><span style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-size: large;">from her river-valley capital below to Malbun, its only ski slope high above; a country clinging to the side of a small section of a central alpine mountain range nestled smack between Switzerland and Austria such that you could miss it altogether when driving by if not paying close attention. A land that becomes even more lovely the higher you climb.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">I can't honestly tell you what got me interested in this little place, but the fact that it is so small and is famous for its postage stamps (yeah, I collect them) along with having that prince probably had something to do with it. Oh, and as mentioned above, it's location in the central Alps of Europe didn't hurt either. I had always been interested in faraway places, but at the same time I also had a penchant for places that were not particularly on the main tourist routes. Some people have been known to look at me like I have two heads when learning of some of the less-traveled places I have wanted to see. Yes, of course tourists do stop by Liechtenstein, but they probably don't go much further than the capital of Vaduz itself, and that just so they can say they've been there. However, I can go a couple of steps further by saying that I know a few lovely</span><span style="font-size: large;"> native</span><span style="font-size: large;"> L</span><span style="font-size: large;">iechtensteiners who still live there, have had other Swiss friends from just across the border who worked in the principality, and I've been from the Rhine Valley at the bottom of the country to the very highest village of Malbun at the top and a couple of other villages in between without the tour groups. And, interestingly, there is actually much to see there, especially if you enjoy hiking and marvelous views of the Alps.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Now because I love to eat, I am just going to jump into describing one of the national dishes of Liechtenstein (I'm going to get tired of typing this country's name) and it is called </span><a href="https://tourismus.li/en/activities/gastronomy-wine/delights-from-liechtenstein/kaesknoepfle/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;"><i>Käsknöpfle</i></span></a><span style="font-size: large;">, which is basically a <i>Spätzle</i> dish mixed with onions and cheese (a blend of Swiss Gruyère and Emmentaler, I think) with a side of applesauce. It is wonderful. I was served it up in the town of Triesenberg, high above Vaduz along with venison, I believe, and it was to die for. Venison does not necessarily accompany the <i>Käsknöpfle</i>, but this plate did and I enjoyed every bit of it. The view from the restaurant was simply breathtaking, looking across the Rhine Valley directly at the Alps due west on the Swiss side of the border. The valley itself was completely socked in by fog (see main <a href="https://www.liechtenstein.li/en" target="_blank">photo</a> in this official Liechtenstein website to get an idea of what I am talking about), but up in Triesenberg, above the clouds and fog, the view was sunny and absolutely exquisite. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><br /></span><span style="font-size: large;">In my photo above, you can see a brilliantly clear view of Liechtenstein. Of course photographs never seem to show the borders that we see on maps (go figure), so let me explain. I took this photo from the Swiss side of the Rhine River from the castle of Sarganz, neither of which you can see or make out in this photo. It is the river that creates the natural border between the principality and its Swiss neighbor. The mountains create the border with Austria to the East. If you look carefully in the very middle of the photo, you will see a very small, dark hill on which sits a white structure with a little tower. This is Schloss Gutenberg, located in the southern Liechtenstein town of Balzers. The castle is one of five in the country and has enjoyed a long history. It was once owned by the Habsburgs, former rulers of Austria-Hungary but originally from Switzerland. Today, the castle is a municipal museum. But back to "seeing" the country in the photo, Liechtenstein is up against those high mountains in the background and makes its way toward the left (north) in the photo and includes the mountains up against which the country sits. The other side mostly belongs to Austria. Perhaps you can make out houses on the mountainside in the far-left background</span><span style="font-size: large;"> of the photo?</span><span style="font-size: large;"> They belong to Liechtenstein. Everything in the green foreground is in the Swiss Confederation.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Okay, Schloss Gutenberg was in and out of private hands for centuries. I believe the last private owner had rights to live there until 2001. Check it out when you get there if you're interested. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">A lot of restoration has taken place there in the fortress over the past 100 years and some of the buildings around the castle itself were added during this time. But fear not, this place has basically been here in one form or another for over 700 years. So yes, it's old.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Balzers itself is a lovely town with its own nice church, which is not particularly ancient, as well as some attractive streets and neat houses that make for a nice residential community. A bus service runs between Balzers and the capital, just north of there, which is a good jog away (I mean that literally), and also connects the country via one of the several Rhine bridges into the canton of St.Gallen, Switzerland, more specifically the city of Sarganz, where Swiss rail service gets you easily to just about anywhere you may want to go from there. No trains cross into Liechtenstein, and no, there is certainly no airport either. Car, bus, foot, or bicycle are just about the only ways to get there. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Oh, and be aware that as you look around and upward (or if you are high up in the country and looking downward), not all you are probably seeing in your line of vision is actually Liechtenstein. Remember, the country really is very small, so it is difficult to get but so many vantage points from which you will be able to see just the principality itself within your sight range. Either Switzerland or Austria or both are often in view as well. After all, Liechtenstein only, but proudly, boasts a whopping 160 sq. km. (62 sq. mi.) of territory. </span><br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mt0TZNt7uNc/WWpLchWgIAI/AAAAAAAAGJE/-TxrHZLDcYwr65J1Yiz4mOVLqqJoFO1qwCEwYBhgL/s1600/100_1894.JPG" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1066" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mt0TZNt7uNc/WWpLchWgIAI/AAAAAAAAGJE/-TxrHZLDcYwr65J1Yiz4mOVLqqJoFO1qwCEwYBhgL/s320/100_1894.JPG" width="213" /></a></div>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w-ctzbiDA7c/WWpLw9I1TDI/AAAAAAAAGJs/ToMHBmD0Y6MJ5veeCLSTGddFyfiiB-YQwCEwYBhgL/s1600/100_1899.JPG" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1066" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w-ctzbiDA7c/WWpLw9I1TDI/AAAAAAAAGJs/ToMHBmD0Y6MJ5veeCLSTGddFyfiiB-YQwCEwYBhgL/s320/100_1899.JPG" width="213" /></a><span style="font-size: large;">Some readers here may find it curious that there are no passport controls to get into the Principality of Liechtenstein. The country does not even have an official passport stamp anymore. I don't know further details on that, but since 1924 it has been protected by Switzerland, has used the Swiss franc, and doesn't even have to send conscripts into the Swiss army. Lucky them. However, for those wishing to get a passport-like stamp in their passports to record having been there, a "stamp" bearing "Fürstentum Liechtenstein" (Principality of Liechtenstein) with the princely hat can be purchased for the staggering cost of 2 Swiss francs at the tourist information center in the middle of Vaduz. You can see one of my stamp entries below, above the stamp for Andorra.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Let's talk a little, and I mean little, about Vaduz. One usually imagines that the capital of a country would either be the biggest city or at least pretty big in any case, right? Well, Vaduz is the biggest, um, "city" in the country, but it really isn't something most people from outside the country (and I dare say many within) would actually call a city. I mean, it's little. Like, really little. So for me, it would constitute more of a big town. Now, I don't mean any disrespect at all, but I'm just calling it as I see it. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLmsFrx7IgVQMMdgyQA1x2kaoMA18fmyz1MTtG645mnRmUul74M1bHcYJNxAInptW8BDH9fg636OuyWNO7h0UUjcN4Qs_lco587Ck6bp28inXJKCCI5_zNEsvGT8tnO50_0ARgc7Gyqg/s1600/Prince%2527s+Castle%252C+Vaduz.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBLmsFrx7IgVQMMdgyQA1x2kaoMA18fmyz1MTtG645mnRmUul74M1bHcYJNxAInptW8BDH9fg636OuyWNO7h0UUjcN4Qs_lco587Ck6bp28inXJKCCI5_zNEsvGT8tnO50_0ARgc7Gyqg/s640/Prince%2527s+Castle%252C+Vaduz.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Vaduz Castle, Liechtenstein, residence of the Princely Family<br />Photo taken from Vaduz, directly below the castle</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The princely family, headed by H.S.H. Prince Hans-Adam of Liechtenstein, resides in the castle that sits directly above Vaduz itself. It almost hangs right on the edge of the city, keeping an eye on what's going on below. Construction was begun in the 12th century, so it isn't exactly modern architecture. Certainly renovations have taken place over the centuries, and it is no longer used as a fortress to protect the country, but having been up to the main door myself, I can tell you that it still isn't exactly easy to break into.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b><span style="font-family: inherit;"><u>The House of Liechtenstein</u></span></b> is one of the oldest noble houses in Europe. It has considerable historical holdings in Austria, from which they originally come. Over the centuries during which they have had power or regional influence, they have done well in expanding their wealth in art and real estate, and of course more. Following the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918 and later at the end of World War II, palatial properties they owned in the former Czechoslovakia were confiscated by the state, never to be returned to the family until this day. Yet, the extended Liechtenstein family, with about 100 members, still owns beautiful estates and art collections in Austria, many of which are open to the public. That said, interestingly they receive no income from the country/government of Liechtenstein in their role as head of state. They are funded by their own extensive family holdings. Therefore, no citizen of the country can exactly complain that the monarchy is costing the citizens too much to keep up. Besides, there isn't much pomp and circumstance there to add to costs. So, to sum up, the castle there above the town is the only residence the princely family uses as such in the country. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">There is a small and unremarkable pedestrian zone in Vaduz. The national museum there is modern and nice, but most of the prince's vast private artwork is, I believe, mostly in his Austrian palaces in Vienna, but don't quote me on that. I would like to note here that to shrug off this historical family as just another rich, money grabbing noble house who are controlling oppressors of the common man would be most shortsighted. Having read histories of this ancient family, I have uncovered numerous sources of princely members donating altogether vast sums to charity and to the education of their subjects. </span><span style="font-size: large;">Charities are still important interests of the family today, as is reported in public reports of their financial doings. By the way, I have no photo of my own of the princely family </span><span style="font-size: large;">to share on this blog page </span><span style="font-size: large;">for you to see. And for good reason: Every time I said, "Cheese!", one or all of them would make a funny face, so I gave up trying. You can find a more suitable photograph of the princely </span><a href="https://www.fuerstenhaus.li/en/" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">family</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> here.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">The old Landtag, or parliament building, is small, traditional looking and attractive, but in recent years, a new and interesting addition has been built next to it for the workings of the government. You can see more about the Landtag <a href="https://tourismus.li/en/our-country/about-liechtenstein/the-parliament/" target="_blank">here</a>. In some ways, although Liechtenstein is a democratic and free country, the involvement of the reigning prince in government and external affairs can be quite strong. Sometimes I think of the principality as a modern quasi-fiefdom. It's almost like the country actually belongs to the prince as it did in the past, and he does in fact own some parts of it in addition to the castle. But since there has been no revolution to depose the monarchy, and the people have a fairly high standard of living and can come and go as they like, I rather think they are okay with it, so who am I to say?</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">One of my friends in Liechtenstein comes from a distinguished family who owns a prominent home in the capital. I am not going to mention a name or location as they really are a private and lovely lot. When invited to their home for a spontaneous tour after dinner out up in Triesenberg one evening, I was pleasantly stunned when shown an extensive private art collection that lined seemingly every single wall and space throughout the residence. I had no idea my friend's family was so invested into art. And the history of the house itself and other contents didn't so much impress me in a sense of grandeur (as grand as the place indeed was!), yet I felt a clear sense of being in a living house, a home, not a museum. The artwork, beautiful furniture and even some of the threadbare showing on the edges of a few carpets demonstrated that the family was somehow as just a part of that house as the house was a part of them. Perhaps rather odd sounding, I confess, but I left that large, elegant and historical home with a cozy feeling rather than one of being overwhelmed by wealth. My friend's graciousness and modesty blended in to help really appreciate her and her family that much more. I dare say they are just one of a number of other such private families in the little country who enjoy and appreciate being able to live there quietly.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">But Liechtenstein is not exactly a backwater. Small as it may be, it’s international reputation in banking, which has had its shady side over the years, and simply being a curious place have kept it from being unknown. Furthermore, the country does not only have native-born Liechtensteiners living and working there. Instead, in a population of just under 40,000 people (2016 statistics), nearly one-third of the residents are foreign nationals and by all means a large part of those residents are made up of non-Swiss or Austrian citizens. This indeed says something about their diversity. The princely family itself has also married well outside of its little borders, ranging from Germany to Panama, so diversity certainly sits around their dinner table too. No country is perfect in handling ethnic diversity and acceptance, and Liechtenstein is no exception in facing the potential challenges, positive and negative, which this can produce. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">But let's get back into nature and head on back up toward Triesenberg and Steg, high above Schloss Vaduz. One of my favorite things to do when I get to visit Liechtenstein is to take a drive up to the tunnel through which one must travel to get all the way up to Malbun, at the top of the country. However, just west of the tunnel's entrance is the town of Steg. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Now Steg is a popular area </span><span style="font-size: large;">for sport and has a chapel located there which is often found in images commonly seen in national tourist brochures. Across the road from this little white chapel is a small café/restaurant called Bergstübli where you can sit outside and just look - at nothing and everything.</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">It is so out-of-the-way in the greater European scheme of things, that just being there, outside, having your coffee on a summer day, looking out across the road at the stream and chapel and alpine landscape in general can be heaven when you need peace and quiet. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px;"><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: small;">Looking down the road in Steg</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Further back down the road from Steg, heading back through the tunnel toward the town of Triesenberg you pass more bucolic settings with what appear to </span><i><span style="font-size: large;">Maiensässen </span></i><span style="font-size: large;">in the fields. Now what on Mother Earth is a </span><i><span style="font-size: large;">Maiensäss</span></i><span style="font-size: large;"> you ask? Good question. You can always google it - that is if your German is good - or just allow me to explain it like this, in my own rustic attempt: A wooden mountain structure that is used for cows and anything associated with spring/summer grazing. Apparently these small, scenic alpine buildings were originally used starting in May (</span><i><span style="font-size: large;">Mai</span></i><span style="font-size: medium;"><span style="font-size: large;">) in the higher grassy regions in this part of the alps, <span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">and</span></span><span face=""arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif" style="font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>säss</i></span></span><span style="font-size: large;"> is local language for "seat", hence, where the cows are </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><i>sit</i></span><span style="font-size: large;"><i>uated</i> for the grazing months, perhaps beginning in May? In any case, they are often photographed or painted in alpine landscapes and easily associated with Switzerland, Austria, or in this case, Liechtenstein. You can just park your car and walk along the paths found everywhere and enjoy the wonderful views. </span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">Everywhere you look, there are mountains and forests up here. Hiking is big in Liechtenstein; heck, just being out in nature is big, and rightly so. It seems to call for you. Yodelling anyone?</span><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;">There are other parts in the northern part of the country where I have never visited. If you divide a map of the country almost right in half horizontally, it would seem that I have covered the bottom half pretty well, but the northern parts which include Schaan, Planken and Ruggell have yet to be explored by me. I have a friend who lives in Switzerland, due north of the country, right on the border with Austria. Maybe I need to give her a shout and make a detour that direction and then pop down into the northern part of the principality to discover what exactly is there to be discovered. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I do know that the prince grows his own wines just north of Vaduz and also in Wilfersdorf, Austria. These make up the <i>Hofkellerei des Fürsten von Liechtenstein </i>(Court wine cellars of the Prince of Liechtenstein).<i> </i></span><span style="font-size: large;"> They and other princely estates are worth checking out, especially if you appreciate splendid, historical architecture in addition to possessing a palate for wine tasting. There is a tasting room directly in Vaduz.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Yes, Liechtenstein is a country with a few surprises which can be found within its small borders. From the medieval princely castle all the way up to the tree-trunk carved water troughs. If you’re in the area, that is Europe in general, be brave; take a detour and discover the place for yourself. And for heaven's sake try the <i>käsknöpfle</i>!</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-65925660086484917482017-07-11T14:22:00.000+02:002017-07-11T14:22:08.573+02:00Eppingen of 'Fachwerk' Fame<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The first photo in this blog entry is of the oldest <i>Fachwerkhaus</i> in Eppingen </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">as well as the entire region itself. Built in 1412, this structure must have fascinating stories to tell from the past of more than 600 years, and it is still lived in today! </span></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGdG_-_8rMC4sW39Y2b4DEU1FQJ4QeQwR6Ef6lDEuBHR97V4hlEPu6ukCnMot4Wqci0L9Bx62ArrFPXU-a1n8mCgoyuc5rpwbOamFv4fxPx3rVorJD7rloZFbn8fTDEGpQXOl43nCo1s/s1600/2017-01-21+13.00.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigGdG_-_8rMC4sW39Y2b4DEU1FQJ4QeQwR6Ef6lDEuBHR97V4hlEPu6ukCnMot4Wqci0L9Bx62ArrFPXU-a1n8mCgoyuc5rpwbOamFv4fxPx3rVorJD7rloZFbn8fTDEGpQXOl43nCo1s/s320/2017-01-21+13.00.40.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "\22 arial\22 " , "\22 helvetica\22 " , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was such a pleasure to arrive in Eppingen and to find only then that this town was on the "</span><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fachwerk</span></i><span style="font-family: "\22 arial\22 " , "\22 helvetica\22 " , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> map". I have long been attracted to this beautiful form of architecture so it came as a wonderful surprise to me when I encountered so many examples of it still shown in many of the town's buildings. And, to make things even more exciting for this </span><i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Fachwerk</span></i><span style="font-family: "\22 arial\22 " , "\22 helvetica\22 " , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> enthusiast, I found myself on a walkway into town from the train station lined with specific examples and explanations of the craft, as you can see below: </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wBBmW-knBQY/WIP-2pyfo7I/AAAAAAAAF5E/O690IDO78-Yyvgvvh6BKAn3INadTiff0QCLcB/s1600/2017-01-21%2B12.36.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wBBmW-knBQY/WIP-2pyfo7I/AAAAAAAAF5E/O690IDO78-Yyvgvvh6BKAn3INadTiff0QCLcB/s200/2017-01-21%2B12.36.04.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Fränkischer Mann"<br />
(<i>Franconian Man</i>)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZOrK4KYHlpk/WIP-81D64xI/AAAAAAAAF5M/jD6JrS5ko8gpHt21igl0nnBPilAn0oVTgCLcB/s1600/2017-01-21%2B12.36.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZOrK4KYHlpk/WIP-81D64xI/AAAAAAAAF5M/jD6JrS5ko8gpHt21igl0nnBPilAn0oVTgCLcB/s200/2017-01-21%2B12.36.27.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Raute"<br />
(*<i>Hashtag</i>*)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGNP8SKiOmcL14OLkSDFCKmsg9W1_0izYmDwxlhmjiJBL5zs6j-bCf48n1KlfhxwdaTmMZEl-twaBzxU127xo4u_s4mn57gXX0H19M35Sks72BKhHwLN9IR1SRzJFkJ3Vpl0O0YRDqyus/s1600/2017-01-21+12.36.51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGNP8SKiOmcL14OLkSDFCKmsg9W1_0izYmDwxlhmjiJBL5zs6j-bCf48n1KlfhxwdaTmMZEl-twaBzxU127xo4u_s4mn57gXX0H19M35Sks72BKhHwLN9IR1SRzJFkJ3Vpl0O0YRDqyus/s200/2017-01-21+12.36.51.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Wilder Mann"<br />
(<i>'Wild Man'</i>)</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Corner piece<br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">When looking for somewhere interesting and historical to visit and take to photographs, I googled Eppingen, which is about 50 minutes away from me. Instead of reading anything, I just scanned the photos in various websites. Eppingen seemed to have more <i>Fachwerk</i> structures concentrated in one area than other towns, so I decided with that information alone to head on over there on the tram. Eureka!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">"Christbaum"<br />
(<i>Christmas tree</i>) </td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UGfncLnmOS4/WIP-ylUmkSI/AAAAAAAAF5A/Fy1fXUve8e0ZZoG4iB8xwc-V8VKqsIjwQCLcB/s1600/2017-01-21%2B12.34.11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UGfncLnmOS4/WIP-ylUmkSI/AAAAAAAAF5A/Fy1fXUve8e0ZZoG4iB8xwc-V8VKqsIjwQCLcB/s200/2017-01-21%2B12.34.11.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">"Andreaskreuze"<br />
(<i>St. Andrew's Cross)</i><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OV_fbuNY5pQ/WIP-51EMA3I/AAAAAAAAF5I/nAyv0wqRhI4q7LDRJft99YgOu_4IHAGJwCLcB/s1600/2017-01-21%2B12.35.16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OV_fbuNY5pQ/WIP-51EMA3I/AAAAAAAAF5I/nAyv0wqRhI4q7LDRJft99YgOu_4IHAGJwCLcB/s200/2017-01-21%2B12.35.16.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">"Alemannisches Weible"<br />
(<i>Little Alemannic Lady</i>)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gF6c883w138/WIP_BpWl_lI/AAAAAAAAF5Q/NG280bentnIN3eR3P8YVHZJPZWdjH-y6QCLcB/s1600/2017-01-21%2B12.35.40.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-gF6c883w138/WIP_BpWl_lI/AAAAAAAAF5Q/NG280bentnIN3eR3P8YVHZJPZWdjH-y6QCLcB/s200/2017-01-21%2B12.35.40.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div style="font-size: 12.8px; text-align: center;">
"Alemannisch Säule"</div>
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(<i>Alemannic Column</i>)</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11yFDASxlDuN7T0-d-dOYV3f4knAZUQD7M1u82SMbTjPT4jteoZnTKzTOl95dnnOE4ejtBOlTxIC-0TX-auRpJ0iQ8V-eKEvQypjGuz46MAaD6eQqlJOzncM20JGG9U6VuoK2Bpqm7CI/s1600/2017-01-21+13.21.22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; font-size: 12.800000190734863px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh11yFDASxlDuN7T0-d-dOYV3f4knAZUQD7M1u82SMbTjPT4jteoZnTKzTOl95dnnOE4ejtBOlTxIC-0TX-auRpJ0iQ8V-eKEvQypjGuz46MAaD6eQqlJOzncM20JGG9U6VuoK2Bpqm7CI/s200/2017-01-21+13.21.22.jpg" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Explanations</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Without knowing how many half-timbered houses would be awaiting me, I was very pleasantly surprised to learn that Eppingen is quite known for its abundance of examples of <i>Fachwerk</i>, and I was not to be disappointed. It was everywhere. Unfortunately, the temperatures on the day of my visit were about -20C and my iPhone with which I take all my photos was freezing and shutting off. Constantly having to resuscitate the phone ran the battery down and I ended up limited to what is posted here. Alas, you will have to visit there on your own, and preferably in warmer weather, to see the rest of it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "\22 arial\22 " , "\22 helvetica\22 " , sans-serif; font-size: large;">From outside the Epplingen train station, one sees immediately the peaked roofs in the town center which boast these decorative façades; therefore, a map is not required for anyone with opened eyes seeking such Fachwerk architecture. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The house above with the green shutters on the ground floor really trips my trigger. The colors together with the un-uniform wood and plaster facade of the house make it unique and a pleasure to admire. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>View of the Piper's Tower, one block from the Market Place, which </b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>is located in the center of town.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "trebuchet ms" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i><u>D O O R S</u> </i></span></h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">An odd favorite</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">For some reason, out of all the structures I saw in Eppingen, this house (above) attracted me the most. Why, I don't really know, except that maybe since it appeared un-restored, my imagination was able to play more with whatever historical version of the story I wanted to give it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The tall, church-like window on the upper section was intriguing to me. Why is it there? Was it original to the house? So often one can see sections that have been plastered over or bricked in where windows either once were or had been planned and not realized. But, this peaked window was curious to me. Perhaps doors </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">had </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">once been there for hoisting storage or goods into the upper floors. Who knows.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Together with the church (to the right, just out of the photo), these two houses make up a small church courtyard. The painting across the front of the house between the floors is the <i>Totentanz</i>, or Dance of Death. I would advise <i>googling</i> "<i>Totentanz</i>" or "The Dance of Death". You will find a variety of them. Perhaps even a version of the one in the photo above.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Note the odd-shaped windows (above) in the run-down plaster of the house in the background; they have curtains in them. People living there still? Is the outside worse-off than the inside? The gaps in the wall toward the top could have been intentional or not. Sometimes these floors were used for storage or drying purposes of everything from meats to tobacco. Primitive air vents such as these would have been needed for these purposes and perhaps simply created (improvised?) in later years following construction. Anything is possible.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Above</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> can be seen the Catholic Church of Our Lady (Old City Church), built in 1435, expanded between 1972 and 1974. Part of the church was built in the 12th and 13th centuries.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><u>Getting there</u></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>From Karlsruhe Main Station:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Local trains run from the front of the station or one of the platforms within the station. The S31/S32 runs from within, but you will need to transfer at the next stop which is Karlsruhe-Durlach station (about 5 minutes away from KA main station). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">If you leave on the S4 from outside the front of Karlsruhe's main station, you will not need to change trains, but the journey will take you 8-15 minutes longer, as it must go through Karlsruhe city and all stops in between to get to Durlach, where you would change trains if you take the S31/S32 from within the station. Your choice. The ticket cost is the same. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In total, the trip is anywhere from 58 minutes to 1:15 minutes, depending on the local train you choose to begin the journey.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Get off at Eppingen station (Bahnhof), and the Old Town will be visible to you toward the left once you are out in front of the train station building itself. Not even a 10 minute walk.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>By car:</b> get a navigator or a good old map because I only travel by train, bus, plane, or donkey. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Safe travels and make sure you have enough battery in your mobile phones to take all the photos you desire. </span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-30373469312009640092017-01-16T13:04:00.000+01:002017-01-16T22:17:08.174+01:00Ettlingen - that pretty town near Karlsruhe where Napoleon once slept<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;">Ettlingen is approximately 10 kilometers by bike from my home in Durlach, which means little less than 30 minutes at my rate of pedaling. The bike path is clearly laid out with good signage, is quite easy (with a few minor inclines and fun dips) and altogether a lovely ride which takes me through wooded area and strawberry fields along the way. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Together with Durlach and Heidelberg, as well as many other communities on the right bank of the Rhine River across from French Alsace, Ettlingen suffered almost total destruction by fire at the hands of Louis XIV's troops during the Nine Years War (known in Germany as the War of the Palatinate Succession). The town's most well-known patroness, the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duchess_Sibylle_of_Saxe-Lauenburg" target="_blank">Margravine Sybille-Augusta von Baden-Baden</a>, widow of the famed <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Louis_William,_Margrave_of_Baden-Baden" target="_blank">Türkenlouis</a>, Margrave von Baden-Baden, had the town rebuilt following the war and made the palace at Ettlingen her seat of power in her dowager years. Much of the city owes its present-day charm to the late Margravine.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>The Alb River flows directly next to the charming Old Town of Ettlingen</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Marketplace with several restaurants and cafés next to the palace</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Break from biking: on the wall along the Alb in Ettlingen</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">One of several bridges that span the Alb in Ettlingen. This is covered and also acts as a dam or weir.</span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The town of Ettlingen, which today boasts more than 30,000 inhabitants in its greater area, is definitely worth the visit. It doesn't require an entire day just to walk around and enjoy the charm and history, but if you are in the area, you shouldn't pass it up. You can visit Ettlingen and one of any other similar towns in the immediate area if history and early 18th-century architecture are your thing. You will find numerous outdoor cafés and restaurants and possibly also city events taking place in one of the two marketplaces or in the inner courtyard of the palace itself which hosts festivals and musicals.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The St. Martin's church, which is found not far from the Ettlingen Rathaus, was badly damaged during the Nine Years' War. The church predates many of the structures to be found in Ettlingen today. Under the church are what's left of a Roman bathhouse that dates back almost 2,000 years. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">St. Martin's Church is one of the oldest buildings</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">View of the Rathaus and tower gate.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Main walking street into and out of Ettlingen through the tower gate.</span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As someone who doesn't often make repeat visits to but so many places, Ettlingen is definitely one of the few destinations that I like to revisit time and time again, not only because it is so close to my home, but the charm and open atmosphere of the town attracts me to it. The clear water of the moving stream in the river is another draw for me and contributes to my feeling relaxed every time I go, even if for only an hour. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fountain found in the palace courtyard</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ettlingen Town Hall (Rathaus) on the Alb River</span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Since I also find half-timbered houses (<i>Fachwerkhäuser</i>) so fascinating, I enjoy biking around Ettlingen's side streets in search of them and photographing what I find. The town, like so many in Germany, is certainly tourist-friendly, but it is also a living community which adds to its vibrancy. Just like in Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, the dwellings are lived in which adds to the charm of these old houses. And as I confess I tend to do, peeking in windows through the corners of my eyes, I can register that these old wooden houses are still alive and are adding new chapters to their histories every day.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Another covered bridge and weir over the Alb near the Rathaus of Ettlingen. Note the birdhouses on the bridge.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A well cared for and restored half-timbered home in<br />Ettlingen</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Looking down the Alb River as it passes the Old Town</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">One of the charming oddities in town, a private home<br />that may have once been squeezed into any available<br />space. Zoning may have been lax once upon a time.</span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Ice-cream shops are rather popular throughout Germany in the warmer months, and it can get pretty hot in Germany these days. Numerous ice-cream shops are also found here in Ettlingen mixed in with the cafés and restaurants along such streets as shown in the photo above. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Well-marked bike paths and bike-friendly cities are also found throughout the Federal Republic and Ettlingen is no exception.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">The tower standing over one of the main entrance to Ettlingen. This gate leads north to the next town, Durlach.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A beautiful example of "Fachwerk" in Ettlingen</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Dating back to 1494, the St. George Fountain, protector<br />of the market place and watering hole, sits in front of the<br />Rathaus, or City Hall.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">If you were to remove the plaster from this building, you would find the original half-timbered structure that it was. </span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">As mentioned above, the Margravine Sybille-Augusta of Baden-Baden took great interest in the rebuilding of this Ettlingen following devastation from the long War of the Palatinate Succession. By this time she was a widow and would end up living here in the palace (shown below) that was also rebuilt. Roughly a hundred years later, the Emperor Napoleon would briefly call Ettlingen Palace his headquarters when passing through with French troops once again as they crossed the nearby Rhine during his campaign to attempt to subjugate Europe into his empire. However, on this trip the town was spared destruction.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Entrance to the palace chapel</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A side view of the square-shaped palace. This side </span></i><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A larger view of Schloss Ettlingen The inner courtyard hosts musical festivals.</span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Pictured above, you can see the beautiful baroque city hall of Ettlingen that was constructed in 1738. It is made of red sandstone, which is common in the region. The tower to its right straddles the gate that leads directly to Durlach to the north.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">Another view of the Alb River</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">The Market Place just outside of the palace walls, which were behind </span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;">me when I </span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;">took the </span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;">photograph (and still are!) You can see some </span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;">of the many </span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;">outdoor cafés in town.</span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">Of course, if you are a beer afficianado, then perhaps the <a href="http://www.vogelbraeu.de/ettlingen/lokal.html" target="_blank">Vogelbräu</a> in Ettlingen is a place you shouldn't pass up. Visit all three Vogelbräu sites by bike with the Tour de Vogel (Ettlingen, Karlsruhe, Durlach) in one day, and whichever brewery is your final visit will give you a free beer. Check the link here: <a href="http://www.vogelbraeu.de/tour-de-vogel.html" target="_blank">Tour de Vogel</a> (only in German). </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">This house with its odd roof dormer window has always<br />intrigued me. There are two floors in that peaked roof.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A later shot of the tower without the scaffolding.</span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">A final shot of the Alb River taken from the other side of the river, with St. Martin's church tower in the background. </span></i></td></tr>
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How to get to Ettlingen: </h3>
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<strong>From Karlsruhe HBF (main train station)</strong> - The <strong>S1 or S11 tram</strong> leaves from out front of the train station roughly every ten minutes in the direction of Ettlingen. It takes about <strong>14 minutes</strong>. No passenger trains run there.</div>
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<strong>By bicycle -</strong> Follow signs from the <strong>Karlsruhe train station</strong> or from <strong>Durlach</strong> or even from <strong>Baden-Baden</strong>, located to the south of Ettlingen. Asking the Tourist Info Center, or possibly just about any cyclist you run into, might also give you a good head start. The ride shouldn't be more than 30-40 minutes depending on your speed. maybe even faster? You might be able to lease a DB (DeutscheBahn) bicycle from out front the station as well.</div>
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(<strong>By the way</strong>, The Durlach to Baden-Baden bike route (roughly 40 km.) takes you directly through Ettlingen, and it is a good ride on relatively flat terrain passing through nice villages, ending up in Baden-Baden, which is another jewel of a town to visit! It is roughly the same distance from Karlsruhe main train station to Baden-Baden as well.)</div>
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<strong>By car</strong> - get a map or use your navigator ;-) It isn't far at all. If it takes a cyclist less than 40 minutes to get there, you shouldn't have long in the car, save traffic problems. </div>
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<strong>Walking</strong> - I certainly do not see why not. You could easily get there on foot and after a nice morning of walking there, you can enjoy a beer at Vogelbräu or lunch at one of the nice outdoor cafés.</div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-87573264625243565872016-02-06T16:33:00.001+01:002016-02-06T16:33:56.280+01:00The Ruins of Hohentwiel<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I'm really late in posting this trip, but it really doesn't matter because the place was in ruins long before I ever got there, so nothing has really changed since my visit with the Duchess. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In the photo above, you can see a rendering of the <i>Burg</i>, or fortress, of Hohentwiel when it was at its best in the 17th and 18th centuries. The stone ruins that you will see in the photographs below are all that is left of the once mighty fortress-castle that has stood here in different forms and sizes since the first structure was built way back in the year 914. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">nterestingly, the hill on which Hohentwiel sits is actually an extinct volcano, and the countryside around it gives evidence of this in its rock formations and terrain.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Our trip via train from Stuttgart to Hohentwiel, near the southern German city of Singen, very near the Swiss border, took us through foothills and glens on the eastern side of the Black Forest. The journey was about 2 hours and the scenery along the way is truly lovely, especially in spring when we made our particular trip. Blossoming fruit trees mixed with three different shades of lilac are found in abundance throughout the country; nature's freshly made colors spattered throughout our vista from the rail car could have taken up a lot of space on my camera had I let them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">We passed numerous smaller stations some of which were better cared for than others. A good number of the railway stations of smaller municipalities date back almost to the origins of rail service in the former Kingdom of Württemberg. Often they are inhabited on their upper floors even if the ticket counters are now closed on the ground floor. Some, such as the one pictured above, are in full operation with perhaps a café still an integral part of the complex. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Looking westward from our windows, some of the lower ridges of the Black Forest range were in sight, as you can see in the photo above and in the one below. A bit further westward and out of view for us, the Black Forest rises even higher offering excellent views of the Alsace regions of France along with some of her smaller mountain ranges found there. </span></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zQQXDOdCSVw/VrIZuaaMNyI/AAAAAAAAECU/dJv5M4uVrWI/s1600/IMG_1497.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zQQXDOdCSVw/VrIZuaaMNyI/AAAAAAAAECU/dJv5M4uVrWI/s640/IMG_1497.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">When we got to Singen's main station, we had to transfer to a regional train which took us only one or two stops to the platform from which we began our ascent on foot up to the castle ruins atop Hohentwiel. It's a great walk! Along the way, the Duch and I had a good laugh, mostly due to her rolling her eyes at the fact that I seemed to have to stop and photograph almost every piece of creation along the way. Below, you can see one of a number of huge mushrooms I found; the sheep in the background could clearly care less. Although we were attempting to make this quasi-hiking excursion as much about being outdoors and getting good exercise, my constant stopping to take a photo just might have thrown a bit of a wrench into any idea of making the climb a vigorous one. Thanks, Duchess, for your patience and good humor about it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">At one point, you come to a collection of houses and dependencies, many of which offer information about the ruins further ahead. The model rendering of the castle at the beginning of the post was found in an information center located here. To add to my photo-excitement and to the greater dismay of the Duchess, an old cemetery (seen below) was also found here along the path just past the info. center, and, well, of course I couldn't pass that up. I think it was here that the Duch began wondering if we would ever make to the top before winter. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I won't spend a lot of time writing about the cemetery here because the Duchess is eager to get going, so onward and upward, literally, to our <i>Ziel</i>: the castle-fortress of Hohentwiel.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">The Duchess awaits, "C'mon Jeeves!"</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Entrance to info/visitor's center</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Well, as you can see below, we weren't the only living beings on this trek. There were other two-leggers as well as a herd of four-leggers along the path; only, the four-leggers weren't exactly clogging the route to our destination, fortunately. We traversed open as well as leaf-canopied ways up the hill and the distant views expanded even further until at one point, while at the top, we were able to enjoy a marvelous view of the <i>Bodensee</i>, or Lake of Constance, shared by three nations: Germany, Switzerland, and even Austria.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">When we finally came round the bend, we were at the entrance to the fortress complex. Of course we could see the place from just about every clear vantage point below as we made our way up, but now we were standing directly at the base of the daunting walls which loomed above us. One thing that did indeed surprise me, or better yet, impress me, was that the buildings had so many floors in them. When I look at the amount of stones required to build these structures, along with the mortar to keep them all from tumbling down, I have to remind myself that taller and more immense edifices had been built hundreds if not thousands of years prior, so it isn't like such feats of construction had never been accomplished prior to this. I guess it's because we there in the flesh and not looking at a photo in a book and thus were able to appreciate the scale of the buildings three dimensionally. Imagine standing directly next to the great pyramids of Giza or the magnificent stone structures that still remain from the Aztecs. All of this makes an impact that photos cannot fully express.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">There are several levels of the Burg Hohentwiel that one must make their way through in order to get to the highest point. Scroll back up and have a look at the model in the first photo. There, you can easily see the ramp climbing the center-left of the castle from the lowest gate, which can be seen in the two photos directly below. The photo to the right is the principal entry and leads into what appears to be a tunnel, as seen in the photo on the left.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I could stand and look at these walls all day, wondering what each of the window-like openings actually were. Were they doorways? Windows? Fireplaces? Hidden alcoves? And what if they weren't doors but large windows and the smaller openings were fireplaces? Then why were the fireplaces higher than the foundation of the doorways? Hundreds of childlike questions, many of which I would prefer to remain unanswered merely because I like my theories better (LOL). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">One of the questions I always have when visiting such places is what all the other buildings were used for. Well, a place like Burg Hohentwiel needed to support itself as well as possible within its own walls in the event of a siege. So one can image there would have been need of everything from an apothecary and blacksmith to food and water storage, stores, as well as anything associated with military preparedness. There are many buildings to be found here and also quite substantial in size. It was like a mini-city of sorts with a well-guarded wall around it. Just imagine a military base today and take it back a couple of hundred years.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><b>The View</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I regret that I have no photograph of the Bodensee from atop Burg Hohentwiel. Truth be told, the haze over the lake to the east-southeast together with the glare of the late afternoon sun behind me to the west created some sort of gauze-like image that photo-shopping could do little to minimize. Believe me when I write here, however, that although the camera images were all a mess, the view is wonderful. The lake is immense, so to see so much of it from high above and at the distance that it actually is, it causes one to appreciate its size as well as all the landscape in which it sits. Keep in mind that on a clearer day, we would have been able to see the Alps from there as well. Definitely, we were able to look across into the Canton of Thurgau, Switzerland although the Alps themselves were not on display for us at that time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In the photo above (right) you can see the second gate that leads to the highest part of the castle complex. It is the last portal entry well within the greater castle complex. If you look again at the diagram at the very top of this page, you can't see it, but the other tow gate houses that precede it can be seen on the sloping ascent in the model. If any invader had gotten into the first section of the fortress at its base, they would have still had a long way to go to get the rest of way to fully conquer it.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I wouldn't be able to tell you exactly what these cavernous cellars were used for. Yeah, I'm sure somebody knows down at the information center below, but I didn't ask since I didn't know we would be seeing them way up above on the hill, but that just makes it all the interesting for you when you go there. Besides, if I gave away all the secrets to be found there, you wouldn't have many surprises to discover on your own. Oh, just one thing: when down in the cellars, you might want to watch out for ghosts - just sayin'.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">You know, when you're down in the man-made caverns and think of all that was dug out down there along with all the masonry above and around you as well as the immense number of stones possibly hewn from the volcanic rock on which this immense Burg stands, it makes you think - think about what we are all capable of accomplishing when we get off our seats and do it!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">A Burg Hohentwiel spring in Baden-Württemberg</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Not visible in the photograph due to haze, the Lake of Constance spans out in the horizon<br />beyond the large, faint forest that can just be made out in the distant background above.<br />On a clearer day, the view would be most obvious from atop Burg Hohentwiel.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Note all the stones that make up these walls. The cellar, too, is lined<br />with the same type of rock (I'm guessing volcanic.) and is quite <br />deep, hence my staying back a bit to take this photo.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This shot (above), taken from the walls of Burg Hohentwiel looking north, shows another ancient volcano in the near distance. I don't know if there are any ruins or former fortifications of any kind up there. Still, I would think it would have been used for something once upon a time.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Well, I gather that by now many of you might be wondering why in the world this place is in ruins today. After all, it was one of the most solid and strongest of fortresses in this part of Europe once upon a time. From what I recall, the fortress was never overtaken directly from war. At one point in its long history, it was even a ducal residence of the dukes of Württemberg. Even though this area is technically in the Baden part of the present federal state of Baden-Württemberg, it was nonetheless an enclave of sorts which was owned by the former rulers of Württemberg. It served its purpose until the very early 1800s, when Napoleon ordered that the fortress be dismantled. Hence, the ruins we see today came not from neglect or as the result of warfare, but simply the orders of Napoleon. I should like to add here, that only a few years later the dukes of Württemberg, who chose to side with Napoleon in his restructuring of the former Holy Roman Empire, which he also abolished during his reign, were elevated to the status kings of Württemberg and the Badener margraves were elevated to the title of grand dukes of Baden. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The Kingdom of Württemberg ceased to exist in November of 1918 in the closing days of World War I (see <a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2013/06/bebenhausen-where-it-all-ended.html" target="_blank">Bebenhausen-where-it-all-ended.html</a>), and the Grand Duchy of Baden became a <i>Freistaat</i> or Free State (Republic) at about the same time within the new Germany. Descendants of both royal families still live in the lands of their ancestors and participate in various ways to local cultural and educational concerns. Of course they have long relinquished the titles of king and grand duke, but have retained the ancient titles their forebears once used and are now known within the modern republic once again as dukes of Württemberg and markgraves of Baden, of course without political power, but as citizens equal to the rest of us. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Visiting here and reading about and seeing the history of Burg Hohentwiel is something that is also educational for children. The hike of the well-paved hill to get up there provides a good day-trip outing and the views are truly spectacular if you are there on a clear day. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">___________________________</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Getting there </b>by train from Stuttgart main station, there are two options: </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">a) the regional (RE) which departs roughly every two hours and takes 2:24 minutes non-stop, and</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">b) the inter-city (IC) which also departs every two hours, alternating with the RE on the between hour, also non-stop.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Check <a href="http://www.bahn.de/" target="_blank">www.bahn.de</a> for prices and times.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In all cases you will need to change trains at Singen (your final destination from Stuttgart or any other place of departure) for the short jaunt around the bend to the foot of the Burg where your hike upward will begin. Of course it is certainly possible to begin your day-jaunt from the Singen train station itself. Just add some time onto your trip and take a map. When we came down the mountain after a visit, we came by foot all the way through the city of Singen to the train station to return to Stuttgart.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Singen is not at all far from Zürich via train or car, and is also close to other beautiful sites such as Mainau, Friedrichshafen and Konstanz.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Have fun!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">And don't forget to join this blog (see column to the right) for updates on new postings to come!</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com078224, Singen (Hohentwiel) Germany47.81131001626008 8.782882690429687547.768662516260079 8.7022016904296873 47.853957516260081 8.8635636904296877tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-76510564298446366932016-02-01T13:54:00.000+01:002016-02-01T13:59:36.807+01:00Weil der Stadt<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">City walls surrounding much of Weil der Stadt</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weil der Stadt Coat of Arms<br />
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Eagle: Free Imperial City<br />
SPQR: Roman Senate & People<br />
Keys: Catholic Church, as<br />
on Vatican Flag</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Forty minutes via the S6 local train from Stuttgart, we arrived at Weil der Stadt, located in the green Wurm Valley on </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">the Württemberg side </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">of the enchanting Black Forest. Also situated in the Greater Stuttgart Region, more specifically </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Kreis</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> (County) Böblingen, Weil der Stadt with its present name dates back to medieval times. Spared much damage during the Second World War, the town remains original, proudly boasting memorials to her famous sons Johannis Kepler, the renowned early 17th-century astronomer, and Johannis Brenz </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">(They aren't real original on first names are they?), a student of Martin Luther and who was instrumental in bringing the Reformation to Württemberg, although oddly enough after the Reformation, Weil der Stadt remained a Catholic city. Brenz died in 1570, the year before Kepler was born. Evidently, the bombardment of the town by the French military during WWII was called off in respect to the fact that this is the birthplace of that famous astronomer. To think that a person who had been dead some 300 odd years saved his town from destruction says loads.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Upon arrival, the town is indeed immediately impressive in its historical architectural vestments which outnumber anything more modern located there. This of course pleases your writer very much. <i><a href="https://plus.google.com/u/0/collection/Ui-tx" target="_blank">Fachwerkhäuser</a></i> are in abundance; so much so, that for one of the rare times in my life, I didn't bother trying to capture every one of them on film. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I found very interesting the origin of the town's name. Evidently, 'Weil' emerged from the Latin word <i>vila/villa</i>, which not only referred to a town, but also perhaps a manor/estate of sorts which originated any settlement here. (This is how I understood it in any case.) Long after the Romans were gone, 'Weil' was evidently granted the status of <i>Stadt</i>, which means town or city in German. 'der' is the feminine possessive '<i>of the</i>', so <i>Weil of the Town/City</i> (Weil der Stadt) came about to distinguish this particular 'Weil' from <i>Weil im Dorf</i> (Weil in the Village), for example. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">Holding the emblem of the Free Imperial City of Weil der Stadt</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">As many of you may already be aware, vast swathes of Germany were part of the Roman Empire many centuries ago, so its Roman heritage traces are not uncommon at all here. Weil der Stadt once belonged to the powerful <a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2014/08/hirsau-historic-religious-treasure-in.html" target="_blank">Abbey of Hirsau</a>, which I reported on earlier. This was in the first half of the 11th century. Later, Weil der Stadt was to become a Free Imperial City, granting it special trade and military rights amongst other things.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In 1648, Weil der Stadt was utterly destroyed in the Thirty-Years War and was rebuilt into what we see today. It is dominated by its massive St. Peter and St. Paul Catholic church located in the center of town, where a statue in honor of Johannis Kepler can be seen. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The wall and towers of the city, so much of what still remain today, are what impress me the most. A walk around the outside as well as parts of the inside (where the wall doesn't actually constitute one of the walls of an interior building) give a good idea of how and for what city walls were used, even today.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Weil der Stadt is also home to some of the ancient guilds which, although perhaps changed in their modern-day functions, </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">proudly </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">continue to operate, for example in the </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Narrenzunft</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">, or Fools' Guild here in town. As Carnival is very important here and wonderfully celebrated with a colorful and historic parade of ancient carnival costumes, it would be worth the visit during the Carnival season. The parade itself is held at <i>Fastnacht</i>, or as the locals would say in their Swabian dialect, </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Fastnet</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">. Visit my report on this topic during the Europe-wide celebration of </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Narrenfest</span></i><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> that took place in </span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=3224640713549830221#editor/target=post;postID=1787407989202361146;onPublishedMenu=posts;onClosedMenu=posts;postNum=17;src=postname" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;" target="_blank"><span style="font-size: large;">Bad Cannstatt</span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> some years ago. Participants from the guilds of Weil der Stadt were indeed represented during that brilliant event!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I highly recommend a visit to Weil der Stadt. If you can be there during <i>Fastnet</i>, you will have an experience and loads of photos that you will likely never forget; however, plan carefully for any visit because it is only on one day and the crowds are large. Still, it would be absolutely worth it. Any other time of the year to visit would also be rewarding. Its proximity to Stuttgart via train or car is convenient and only about 20 miles (approx. 30 kilometers) away. It is easily a day trip or less.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Click here to see an <a href="https://youtu.be/fbCapWIjV5Q" target="_blank">Aerial video of Weil der Stadt</a>. You will be able to get a better idea of how small the town is and get a nice view from above.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i><b>How to get there:</b></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b style="text-decoration: underline;">From Stuttgart via train</b>, take the S6 from underground at the main station in the direction of Weil der Stadt. If all is running on time, it should be just under 40 minutes.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><u style="font-weight: bold;">From Stuttgart via car,</u> head out </span><span style="font-family: "\22 arial\22 " , "\22 helvetica\22 " , sans-serif; font-size: large;">west </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">of the city on the B14 and follow the signs to Weil der Stadt. Altogether, traffic aside (based on traffic patterns in 2016), it should take under 40 minutes.</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0Weil der Stadt, Germany48.7535937 8.872742199999947848.6698542 8.7113806999999479 48.8373332 9.0341036999999478tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-63935872307824109692015-12-22T14:11:00.003+01:002015-12-22T14:33:15.645+01:00Freudenstadt, at the top of the Black Forest<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">What a history this place has!</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNwymb3D9vz0WrpgHt-WrfAkjzQbSvob7MnIARveA9oNfFN27GJl_AXq41RW21cyYX8QWCkBTycRECIMfYcXUztuzsIq8y9TfyebfhAqMMnJ4l11oG75jDUTNrjfZkKHPcLxSQcTt4zw/s1600/2012-11-02+20.18.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieNwymb3D9vz0WrpgHt-WrfAkjzQbSvob7MnIARveA9oNfFN27GJl_AXq41RW21cyYX8QWCkBTycRECIMfYcXUztuzsIq8y9TfyebfhAqMMnJ4l11oG75jDUTNrjfZkKHPcLxSQcTt4zw/s640/2012-11-02+20.18.37.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">In one of my many sojourns throughout Germany, I made a last-minute decision to take a tram from the city of Karlsruhe all the way up through the Black Forest to Freudenstadt, the largest city on top of the Black Forest range. The city, whose name actually means City of Joy, was founded </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">for Huguenots </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">(French Protestants)</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> in 1599 by the Protestant Duke Friederich of Württemberg, who invited them to come into his domains to escape further persecution, this time by Catholics in Salzburg. This was not the first time German princes had welcomed French Huguenots who were escaping persecution and death because of their faith. The Germans had another good reason for inviting them into their domains: the Huguenots were hard workers and merchants.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was autumn when I visited here and I clearly recall how much cooler it was up here than down in Karlsruhe, near the banks of the Rhine River below. The city is 736m (2415 ft.) above sea level and has a population of just under 24,000. It boasts the largest market square in all of Germany, and I can tell you that if indeed there is a larger market square in the country, it must be the size of the Vatican because this is indeed huge. It appears to be perfectly square and has several dozen fountains within it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Toward the end of World War II, the city was severely damaged - vast swathes of it were burned in a devastating fire. Interestingly, in keeping in mind the fact that its founders had already once escaped religious persecution by the French hundreds of years ago, it was Allied French forces which played a large part in its destruction in April 1945. Yet, since then, it has been meticulously restored. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Upon arrival and after my scenic tram journey up the sides of the Black Forest's mountains, I decided to find a nice café for coffee and, well, Black Forest cake, of course: that cherry and whipped-cream delight with a flavoring of espresso and cocoa. I chose a café on the expansive market place and ordered coffee to go with it, of course. There were numerous tourists who mostly seemed to be retired. The service was slow, as is often the case in Germany, but the as is often the case, the cake was worth the wait. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I think my favorite structure in the city has to be the church on one corner of the market square. It was constructed in an 'L' shape. As can be seen in the photographs below, there are two steeples, or towers, which stand at the end of each wing, with only one containing the clock faces. The reason for this interesting construction is that at the time the original church was built between 1601 and 1608, Protestant men and women were to sit separately, and by having two distinct wings, this was more easily ensured. The pulpit is directly in the middle at the angle, so the pastor had a clear view of everyone in the congregation.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">As can be seen in the photograph above and below, the arcade which is part of the rest of the vast market square which this church helps to create as one of the square's corners, is part of the church itself just as it is on all of the neighboring structures. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wAZllL477zM/VVpZNeChx7I/AAAAAAAAC6A/gAppZOK3hAs/s1600/2012-11-02%2B13.19.10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wAZllL477zM/VVpZNeChx7I/AAAAAAAAC6A/gAppZOK3hAs/s640/2012-11-02%2B13.19.10.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The Stadthaus (city house) can be seen through the arcade of<br />a house next to the Evangelical Lutheran Church</i></span></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJXJMFj_O7MQ_cMdiZer0AwmyW_92h7TQ7gxbNy4p2OkQ4k5do9WT2mjkfYXABxVyypQ6fcZsdLcqvP0PSckR4ll6iaMufjDI-5m4eEQy2HQOojANDHe1kG10ss4XQB2H3uIBoqKTQEE/s1600/2012-11-02+13.15.12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMJXJMFj_O7MQ_cMdiZer0AwmyW_92h7TQ7gxbNy4p2OkQ4k5do9WT2mjkfYXABxVyypQ6fcZsdLcqvP0PSckR4ll6iaMufjDI-5m4eEQy2HQOojANDHe1kG10ss4XQB2H3uIBoqKTQEE/s400/2012-11-02+13.15.12.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXT-MyRjxQEmvPmIfyom7tY2ZfY_gjBYdWczooO_crGPgL1AmoyiDMHy6d3LgsCNFRDSjfiawKADnWhU78JlVIDiAINbvYxFxqM1d3Lju3gLK6h2oVVObA4wP14aQhEH7e88vU5TIldM/s1600/2012-11-02+13.17.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixXT-MyRjxQEmvPmIfyom7tY2ZfY_gjBYdWczooO_crGPgL1AmoyiDMHy6d3LgsCNFRDSjfiawKADnWhU78JlVIDiAINbvYxFxqM1d3Lju3gLK6h2oVVObA4wP14aQhEH7e88vU5TIldM/s400/2012-11-02+13.17.19.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Other side of the church: street view of the </i></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>One of a number of independently standing structures on the market square. Note the<br />obligatory arcade which is on all structures which make up the perimeter of the<br />market square of Freudenstadt</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dKpJemQA1pI/VVpZRNk8wLI/AAAAAAAAC6M/HHN6R1HdFuo/s1600/2012-11-02%2B13.23.58.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dKpJemQA1pI/VVpZRNk8wLI/AAAAAAAAC6M/HHN6R1HdFuo/s640/2012-11-02%2B13.23.58.jpg" width="435" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Another angle of the Evangelical Lutheran Church and its</i></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Windows and shutters of one of the many beautiful houses of<br />Freudenstadt. I don't know anything regarding the background as<br />to why that toy VW bus is on the flower box support, but it was the <br />original reason for this photo.</i></span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WOFnyXCGrWg/VVpZqCToy2I/AAAAAAAAC7U/dLEIhwfIsYQ/s1600/2012-11-02%2B14.29.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WOFnyXCGrWg/VVpZqCToy2I/AAAAAAAAC7U/dLEIhwfIsYQ/s640/2012-11-02%2B14.29.29.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">There are many beautiful, large homes in Freudenstadt that were built around the turn of the 19th-20th centuries. Unfortunately I don't know anyone from there, so I can't honestly tell you the history as to why they are here. I want to think that perhaps they were vacation homes used as mountain retreats in the hot summers, but the houses are particularly large for vacation homes, so maybe some were built as flats or apartments just as they are today. Whatever the case, many are certainly worth walking past to admire. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O4GctVpgtV4/VVpZpvY_4WI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/DBjo8AeYPDI/s1600/2012-11-02%2B14.30.36.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O4GctVpgtV4/VVpZpvY_4WI/AAAAAAAAC7Q/DBjo8AeYPDI/s640/2012-11-02%2B14.30.36.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The designs on the walls of the house appealed to me. Very quaint</i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPFDoO-eh8Y/VVpZx6F-IvI/AAAAAAAAC7o/1dXs1CMtq-M/s1600/2012-11-02%2B14.44.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DPFDoO-eh8Y/VVpZx6F-IvI/AAAAAAAAC7o/1dXs1CMtq-M/s640/2012-11-02%2B14.44.19.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Shopping and living quarters are mixed here as they are in so many other European<br />cities.</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Getting there:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">From Karlsruhe main train station the trip is about two hours. Trams run several times an hour. </span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">From Stuttgart main train station, the train journey is about one hour 25 minutes. Trains run roughly once an hour except midday when it is twice. </span><br />
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-60847848305400272112015-12-08T12:55:00.003+01:002015-12-08T21:16:43.695+01:00Deggingen Abbey all dressed in autumn<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I should have posted this a very long time ago, but I forgot the details of the place and instead of doing my online research then, I just pushed it under the rug. Nevertheless, here it is and here as well goes the short, simple description of my visit one Sunday (or was that a Saturday?) </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">about five years ago</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> to the abbey of Deggingen, located in central Baden-Württemberg, and a lovely drive from Stuttgart.</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DJ7yaNNZp5w/VVpXoG-bO_I/AAAAAAAAC2s/PcI0pzGSAY0/s1600/Church%2Bof%2Bthe%2BAve%2BMaria%2C%2BDeggingen%2C%2B2008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DJ7yaNNZp5w/VVpXoG-bO_I/AAAAAAAAC2s/PcI0pzGSAY0/s640/Church%2Bof%2Bthe%2BAve%2BMaria%2C%2BDeggingen%2C%2B2008.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The Ave Maria Chapel of Deggingen.</span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It was a gorgeous, late-autumn morning and a friend and I drove out of Stuttgart along a beautiful route lined with forest-filled vistas boasting one of the most beautiful Indian-summer days I had yet experienced in Germany. Yes, 'Indian summer' - Germans seem to have reinvented the meaning of that phrase to refer only to the colorful autumnal foliage, rather than the original way we North Americans use it. I've given up telling them what it really means, but it doesn't really matter. Regardless, the car ride in itself was worth every kilometer and the abbey proved to be the cherry on the cake (chocolate of course) of the day.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivk__nKEJXJ46RnSOWNZZsyWdTL-HfLpiFJC3pNE5GCe5ipPo0Ht5Z4FIdENGbFtVsiIt5QxnsKR6_KsGxv9Gf3KPIerrtIpJtnnklksCRqAxXZoL3oJKzB3hN_RFF9W4kUwWK3lVklxk/s1600/CIMG3268+(2).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivk__nKEJXJ46RnSOWNZZsyWdTL-HfLpiFJC3pNE5GCe5ipPo0Ht5Z4FIdENGbFtVsiIt5QxnsKR6_KsGxv9Gf3KPIerrtIpJtnnklksCRqAxXZoL3oJKzB3hN_RFF9W4kUwWK3lVklxk/s640/CIMG3268+(2).JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The abbey is located in what is known as the Schwäbische Alb (google it ;-). Its Chapel of the Ave Maria was constructed between 1716 and 1718 by a Capuchin Order of monks. In the early 20th century, the monastery itself was built. Today only a small handful of brothers and their pastor live there and offer pastoral care to the community.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bQC88ZZn6oY/VVpXo879wQI/AAAAAAAAC2w/eCvGGblQk6w/s1600/Kloster%2C%2BDeggingen%2C%2B2008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bQC88ZZn6oY/VVpXo879wQI/AAAAAAAAC2w/eCvGGblQk6w/s640/Kloster%2C%2BDeggingen%2C%2B2008.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The chapel of the Ave Maria itself is known as a pilgrimage church. It belongs to the p</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">arish </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">of Deggingen, which can be seen in the background in the photo below. Several of the stations of the cross are also shown in the foreground leading up to the sanctuary.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b9mnqE0BiUE/VVpXuQJDRRI/AAAAAAAAC3E/m00A5-l9OW0/s1600/cimg3298%2B%282%29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b9mnqE0BiUE/VVpXuQJDRRI/AAAAAAAAC3E/m00A5-l9OW0/s640/cimg3298%2B(2).jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The abbey buildings are of a simple, yet elegant design. Nestled against the forest which surrounds the abbey on three sides, the pale-lemon paint on the walls of the buildings contributes to the charming scene it creates for approaching visitors.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OmGSL6KB37g/VVpXaNhPz2I/AAAAAAAAC1w/90GSGD3ehS8/s1600/Ave%2BMaria%2BChapel%2C%2BDeggingen%2C%2B2008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OmGSL6KB37g/VVpXaNhPz2I/AAAAAAAAC1w/90GSGD3ehS8/s640/Ave%2BMaria%2BChapel%2C%2BDeggingen%2C%2B2008.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J3_3N7isAbg/VVpXjGh26FI/AAAAAAAAC2c/cNj5qz0wT1U/s1600/Ceiling%2Bat%2BDeggingen%2BAbbey%2C%2BLate%2BBaroque%2C%2B1716.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J3_3N7isAbg/VVpXjGh26FI/AAAAAAAAC2c/cNj5qz0wT1U/s640/Ceiling%2Bat%2BDeggingen%2BAbbey%2C%2BLate%2BBaroque%2C%2B1716.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The chapel ceiling</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CwCbUWF1l8I/VVpXc5rBBMI/AAAAAAAAC18/a02psDzdt_I/s1600/Ave%2BMaria%2C%2BDeggingen.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CwCbUWF1l8I/VVpXc5rBBMI/AAAAAAAAC18/a02psDzdt_I/s640/Ave%2BMaria%2C%2BDeggingen.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The golden-orange showpiece above the altar in the photo above is of the Ave Maria. It is late Gothic. I learned from Wikipedia (perish the thought) that it was done by an unknown artist of the 15th century.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The setting of the abbey is indeed lovely and serene. It is still a place of pilgrimage and I can understand why. Since we were there in the fall, apples were for sale everywhere. I really like it when, depending on the season, you are walking along and come upon a table with apples or cherries that are either bagged or are in a little carton and a small sign on the table tells you how much money to leave in the tin for the purchase, and no one is around to make sure everyone is honest. That is trust, and I dare say it is probably usually honored. I've gotten some good fruit that way!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Getting there:</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">- You can take a regional train (RE) from Stuttgart main station to Geislingen station and then a 22-minute bus ride to the "Abzw. Ave Maria". This would take you about 2 hours. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">- The other rail option is to take an inter-city (IC) train from Stuttgart to Göppingen and then the bus for a 1:45-minute trip.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">- Lastly, there is an inter-regional express (IRE) which is the fastest from Stuttgart, though it still includes the bus; this is about one hour altogether. I would take this one. The walk from the bus stop to the abbey is very nice. It isn't far at all.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">- Otherwise, you can rent a car and find it yourself. Don't forget the navigator. After you turn off the main road there is a parking area below the abbey at the end of the drive. </span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-26125111630861390092015-05-16T16:06:00.001+02:002015-05-17T19:18:28.934+02:00Herrenberg - whose church leans heavily over its half-timbered houses<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Looking up </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">from the Market Square </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">over Herrenberg's Town Hall to the massive Stiftskirche<br />above.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Before 1749, there were two tall spires where the single onion dome and <br />its white foundation sit today. </span></i></b></td></tr>
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<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Up in the tower of this late-13th-century Protestant church of Herrenberg </span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>is </i></b><b><i>the </i></b><b><i>Glockenmuseum, or Bell Museum.</i></b></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The imposing façade of the ancient church - known as the <i>Stiftskirche</i>, Collegiate Church, or Protestant Church - dominates the skyline of the entire town. Its tower can be sighted from quite afar as one approaches via car or train, or even by foot across the fields. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Steps are everywhere in Herrenberg. I would imagine no skinny legs here. People are probably in pretty good shape. Access to the homes and shops is directly from the steps themselves which could be awkward for guests who aren't thinking as they step outside from a successful cocktail party. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: center;">I have been down here several times from Stuttgart. It really is a nice day trip. Hiking is certainly possible all over this area. Of course, Germany as a country is well suited to hiking, biking, etc. what with all the designated paths throughout the country. Herrenberg is a stone's throw from the famous Black Forest, or </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: large;">Schwarzwald</span></i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: center;">, as it is called around here.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">The Market Place of Herrenberg, beneath the shadow of its massive church above.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Half-timbered houses, or "Fachwerkhäuse" are to be found all throughout this lovely<br />Swabian town south of Stuttgart. </i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">From the terrace in front of the church itself one looks down over the rooftops of Herrenberg. I would like to see the town from this angle after a heavy snowfall.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Look at those doors! They are pretty solid. The stone around them is also to be admired. I cannot<br />make out the rest of it, but the word or name above the door on the right, "STEINHAVER"<br />means "stone carver", so either he lived here, worked here, or both. Or, he just left this advert<br />over the door for all to know who did it. Good for him. </i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;">More about the <i>Stiftskirche</i></span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Have a look at the doors above. The Stiftskirche of Herrenberg is known for more than its 13th-century founding and bell museum high in its wide tower. It is also known for the fact that it is very slowly sliding down the side of the hill on which it sits. "What" you say? That's right, have a look again at those doors above. It's more than just a shot of two old doors. Look at the stone "framing" around the actual wooden doors. See how the center divider between the door arches is leaning to the left? You can see less of the top-right hinge on the left door than the bottom-right hinge on the same door. This is a side door to the huge church tower. Look below and you can see how high and heavy the tower must be. Mind you, there are certainly higher churches in the world, but not such large and wide ones constructed on the side of a hill like this. The clues are subtle, but when pointed out, one begins to wonder if, when, and how that tower might come down on the half-timbered town below.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Well, not to worry. Certainly the authorities have long known of this threat, and precautions have been taken which will certainly be observed for years to come. Much restoration was done to this effect throughout the 1970s. During this time the foundations were shored up and galleries which were added in the 19th-century were removed. The church had been sliding 1mm per year down toward the town due to the unstable hillside on which it is perched. One millimeter may not sound like much, but keep in mind that Herrenberg's church has been sitting here for more than 500 years! That's roughly 500 millimeters, and one of those millimeters would have been the final straw. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The onion dome atop the tower that is seen today was built in 1749 when the former double spires were taken down and the single top was put on instead.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAj40-L_k-K2TjXWW6ZRG_XZ_Xm8EDDVMiT3VMa-p-ACuXOdu0jnZwAONRuhPYRJtlL48aOB3eJioNkgXXUyszD_-rPzq-aZQnMTtvlZUdjNpsmdMX3an7HV0fq6hQzxE7Vd08bi8sXvk/s1600/CIMG3133.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAj40-L_k-K2TjXWW6ZRG_XZ_Xm8EDDVMiT3VMa-p-ACuXOdu0jnZwAONRuhPYRJtlL48aOB3eJioNkgXXUyszD_-rPzq-aZQnMTtvlZUdjNpsmdMX3an7HV0fq6hQzxE7Vd08bi8sXvk/s400/CIMG3133.JPG" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzl5YlOmL8lHkOFWVu-daVxI_u63AlBXF6aNo74hHLtRhno13yxl0nyPtVRXv55h5-6e0fY6V0yv4tY1zdN5vHyMo6qj2dp6hVCCILLu9JVJJyHrQJ7ELjyMm58Ff8i4s7MOh2qvEn71o/s1600/CIMG3135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzl5YlOmL8lHkOFWVu-daVxI_u63AlBXF6aNo74hHLtRhno13yxl0nyPtVRXv55h5-6e0fY6V0yv4tY1zdN5vHyMo6qj2dp6hVCCILLu9JVJJyHrQJ7ELjyMm58Ff8i4s7MOh2qvEn71o/s400/CIMG3135.JPG" width="278" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC_WLA0DCIXo10rgUtQwsTT4cJTr53DgiUoVbBRpeunfvoXB_g6BlgL3MIEY-gzK2N8xx_R0nZCdwp6_RWaUfBzkLXQqYkjVshBAoxWP-V6-rclWGBUum7RF87YIH0y9s4fD3EA-0EE0/s1600/CIMG3132.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwC_WLA0DCIXo10rgUtQwsTT4cJTr53DgiUoVbBRpeunfvoXB_g6BlgL3MIEY-gzK2N8xx_R0nZCdwp6_RWaUfBzkLXQqYkjVshBAoxWP-V6-rclWGBUum7RF87YIH0y9s4fD3EA-0EE0/s320/CIMG3132.JPG" width="222" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">I couldn't resist throwing this in.<br />She graced a storefront window in<br />the town below. </span></i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The choir stalls were carved in the 17th century. I particularly like the figures carved into them. I have seen these in many such stalls dating back a variety of centuries. Some I have seen boast quite humorous depictions - even yawning monks, but not here. </span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-large;"><i>Fachwerkhäuse<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;">,</span></i><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> or Half-timb</span>ered houses</span></h2>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Herrenberg boasts many of these beautiful structures. Most of the half-timbered houses here were created in the Frankish style of <i>Fachwerk</i>. The oldest house in the town is of the Allemanisch style. Like so much of Württemberg and Baden, Herrenberg was burned to the ground during the devastating 30-Year's War in the first half of the 17th century. When the city was rebuilt, the merchants and inhabitants did not want all their homes to look the same. Therefore, the styles of <i>Fachwerk</i> on the buildings were intentionally made to be different. As you walk around the city, there are placards on the sides of many of the buildings explaining the names and styles of the beam work. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Here are some shots of half-timbered houses I saw in Herrenberg. The house in the <i>above left</i> is the kind I like to come across in my travels - especially when my iPhone is charged since 90% of my photos are done with it. The amount of windows all over the house and their different sizes intrigue me. When seeing buildings like this one, I like to stand outside and try to figure out the purposes of such little windows such as the one directly above the front door. I mean, how short are the people who can even walk on that floor when compared to the windows and floor above it? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I have often heard said that in some places, some of the taxes on home owners were determined by how many windows one had on one's house. I don't know if that was a universal rule, but it sounds interesting. Perhaps even window sizes were considered in the tax assessments of the day, hence, the different sizes. On the other hand, though, windows must surely have been added at later dates and in a half-timbered house, the space between the external timbers would have needed to have been taken into consideration as well. Who knows - the point is, they are fun to look at and let the mind wander back to what life was like long ago.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BD017GyOBU0/VVUZhseNbzI/AAAAAAAACzY/YxyrgFjDVQc/s1600/2012-08-18%2B16.58.12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BD017GyOBU0/VVUZhseNbzI/AAAAAAAACzY/YxyrgFjDVQc/s400/2012-08-18%2B16.58.12.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTG-S7XBIRU/VVUWyReBBUI/AAAAAAAACxg/44y0AAswKbY/s1600/CIMG3143.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZTG-S7XBIRU/VVUWyReBBUI/AAAAAAAACxg/44y0AAswKbY/s400/CIMG3143.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The house, <i>above right</i>, is behind the church. The ground floor contains the workshop of the church. It is quite large and takes care of all sorts of repairs, restorations, etc. Duke Carl Eugen of Württemberg instructed that all the houses be "cleaned", or covered up. Perhaps the <i>Fachwerk</i> looked too primitive and the plastered fronts appeared more solid and stately; I don't know. I do know that in most cases I would differ with the duke. Now, why the rest of the houses down below in the town are not plastered over today, I do not know. Perhaps they were restored to their original beauty in more modern times. Simply based on the size of the structure, imagine what wooden designs are behind that plaster. In any event, it is indeed a substantial structure. The sheer amount of windows across the two main floors are something to ponder. Would like to have seen their tax bill.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">As we hiked back down to the city from the Schloßberg (more information below), we came out into a clearing with fields and what appeared to be a farmhouse. The style of the house impressed me; I couldn't resist a shot of it (above left).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">When walking around behind the huge church, one comes across a path that climbs further on up the hill above. At one time a castle was here - the Schloßberg. Some of the gates and parts remain as you make your way up by foot. There is a fine overlook from which you can see quite far over the city below and toward the Black Forest which is in the western horizon. The Schloßberg offers a café terrace, but the fortress itself is not really much to see in itself. The view, however, is worth the climb.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Getting there:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><u>To Herrenberg from Stuttgart main station</u>: three to four local trains run per hour to Herrenberg, ranging from 30 - 40 minutes. No ICE's stop there, although they do pass it on the way to Zürich. </span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-68026281517472549982015-05-08T23:12:00.002+02:002018-01-15T14:52:07.428+01:00Heidelberg Castle - from the other side<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<u><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">The Ruins</span></u></h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Heidelberg Castl</span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">e</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">At some point in our lives m</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">ost of us have seen the ruins pictured above of the world-renown ruins of Schloß Heidelberg, be it in a history book, travel brochure, or on a visit to Germany. But, how many have seen the "other side" of the castle, what it looks like from behind, or even heard the story of how this large castle became a </span><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">ruin in the first place? Let's have a look at some of other angles and views of Heidelberg Castle from within the grounds of the castle itself. </span></span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iD8wMDdMvg4/VUu8fmR5fII/AAAAAAAACro/MtW3y6MEA5g/s1600/CIMG4912.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iD8wMDdMvg4/VUu8fmR5fII/AAAAAAAACro/MtW3y6MEA5g/s640/CIMG4912.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Black and white images of Heidelberg Castle. I took the photo above from a square in the Old Town below. The photo below is within the castle itself after passing through the arched entrance into the <i>Innenhof</i>. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPsmeX7Tsnp1CkGap6tm4nHdufjnhV-wyN4lfVeJDW558H1_syZzam0srBacHahOimMCxvtxL2tiB0t0yPcy-ZiinIM0-yL5lURfzdT4CMHG8psvRitXlzPMmzIAMWe20_yeqUzlZHjpQ/s1600/CIMG4933.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPsmeX7Tsnp1CkGap6tm4nHdufjnhV-wyN4lfVeJDW558H1_syZzam0srBacHahOimMCxvtxL2tiB0t0yPcy-ZiinIM0-yL5lURfzdT4CMHG8psvRitXlzPMmzIAMWe20_yeqUzlZHjpQ/s1600/CIMG4933.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The ruined façade </span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;">above</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: left;">is what one first encounters upon entering the castle from the river front. It is to the left after coming through into the inner courtyard. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">The sentinel's box in the photo on the left is just before the main entrance to Heidelberg Castle. When entering the castle, one would have been easy target for anyone posted in there, watching as you made your way into the entrance gate </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">(see below)</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; text-align: justify;">. These little boxes on the outer walls here remind me of similar ones found on castles I've visited along the coasts of Portugal and Spain. The tower on the right has had its roof rebuilt. It is one of the main gates from the mountain side of the castle. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>The Coat of Arms above the main entrance of Heidelberg Castle.<br />Note the garter band around the center which reads, "Honi Soit Qui Mal y Pense"<br />Ring a bell? That's right, it is also the motto of the Most Noble Order of the Garter <br />of England. Can you guess why it is in the Elector's coat of arms here?</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">When visiting, just stop and make a point of looking at the figures in the niches included within the historical walls of this great fortress. All throughout the castle ruins one comes across a variety of military leaders, dukes and electors chiseled within them. Fortunately, selected parts of the castle have been restored, including many of the statues seen there.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q1sUWXcGSN8/VUu8f7YOGII/AAAAAAAACrs/jlumn9CKJ5g/s1600/CIMG4939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q1sUWXcGSN8/VUu8f7YOGII/AAAAAAAACrs/jlumn9CKJ5g/s400/CIMG4939.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pfeRQeFM3WE/VUu8hX3u2FI/AAAAAAAACr0/d9ru45nXOlQ/s1600/CIMG4945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pfeRQeFM3WE/VUu8hX3u2FI/AAAAAAAACr0/d9ru45nXOlQ/s320/CIMG4945.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Much still remains of the former moat around this side of the castle, as can be seen in the two photos above. To enjoy a better view</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> of </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">the ruins up close and</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">t</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">o get a vivid picture of how the castle was destroyed, a walk inside this huge moat is necessary. Some climbing can actually be done on the castle's ruins from down in there. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Seen from down on the riverfront and the town, this tower ruin is one <br />of the most famous parts of the entire scene sitting on the side of the<br />mountain above. At this view from behind, it makes you wonder how<br />the rest of these bricks are even holding on! Compare the size of the<br />person enjoying the view from the ramparts with the overall structure. </span></i></b></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vg4tESZrBGU/VUKIu5XyNrI/AAAAAAAACp0/Se_HYH_lIO0/s1600/CIMG4979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vg4tESZrBGU/VUKIu5XyNrI/AAAAAAAACp0/Se_HYH_lIO0/s1600/CIMG4979.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The sheer number of stones is remarkable. You don't need to look hard at these two photos <i>(above and below)</i> to see them. You can well imagine how many meters thick these broken walls are; I mean, look at the density. Think of how many explosives were required to split this and the other castle towers! This wasn't done with just any old canon ball during battle. No, this was planned and calculated several years after the last major battle following the French defeat of the armies of the Elector whose seat Heidelberg Castle was. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">As I stood there, staring at these incredible, thick walls, I thought about how the demolition was carried out back in those days. It goes to show how remarkably powerful and resourceful military people of that day were in tackling the major challenges before them. They knew how to fell such massive constructions; they knew the weak points, or how to accentuate them, and bring these mighty structures down. I guess if they can build them, they would certainly be able to bring them down as well. In the case of Heidelberg Castle, its destruction took place over a period of four years during the 9-Years War of the Palatine Succession. </span></div>
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<u><b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-large;">The Gardens</span></b></u></h2>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-57q0xP5aVeM/VUKIzSp58rI/AAAAAAAACqA/31CKswqyZ4Q/s1600/CIMG4987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-57q0xP5aVeM/VUKIzSp58rI/AAAAAAAACqA/31CKswqyZ4Q/s1600/CIMG4987.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">These balustrades are probably mixed with original and reconstructed pieces. This massive garden was evidently something else in its day! As can be seen in these several shots, the terraces were of two or three different levels and once upon a time contained all sorts of different gardens and patterns. </span><br />
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_I6TYQORZf0/VUu8nAczGYI/AAAAAAAACsM/UBEGEAbIFX0/s1600/CIMG4983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_I6TYQORZf0/VUu8nAczGYI/AAAAAAAACsM/UBEGEAbIFX0/s640/CIMG4983.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It is nice to enjoy a stroll along them, imagining how they once looked when in their full glory. Despite the destruction of the castle, these terraces seem to have been pretty well left in shape. Over the past 300 years since the fall of Heidelberg Castle, these former gardens have at least maintained their original integrity of shape and outline. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ypk5ZcUkQrg/VUKI0eHRjOI/AAAAAAAACqE/yVXTGUw4gB8/s1600/CIMG4984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ypk5ZcUkQrg/VUKI0eHRjOI/AAAAAAAACqE/yVXTGUw4gB8/s1600/CIMG4984.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The gardens were built between 1616 and 1619. They were designed by Salomon de Caus for the Kurfürst Friedrich V, who had them built for his wife. They were destroyed by the French in 1689 during the 9-Years' War. It's terraces can still be enjoyed today.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X8pLei8-2XE/VUKIwXtKJqI/AAAAAAAACp4/Cfy2pZYmDdQ/s1600/CIMG4981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-X8pLei8-2XE/VUKIwXtKJqI/AAAAAAAACp4/Cfy2pZYmDdQ/s1600/CIMG4981.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Heidelberg Castle suffered the effects of fire three times. The first was in 1689 during the 9-Years' War of the Palatine Succession, which was the first time the French came through Heidelberg and defeated the Elector's army at the castle; in 1693, when the French returned to effectively destroy the castle as well as the city below enough to put the castle completely out of foreseeable military commission; and, again, in 1764 when it was struck by lightening which made it completely uninhabitable. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">From then on, stones from the castle ruins were used by Heidelberg citizens for the building of homes. This was not unheard of in history. Even parts of the Great Wall of China were used by locals for such similar purposes. This trend stopped at the beginning of the 19th century when the Count de Graimberg began the process of conserving what was left of the castle.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-niU3QlMtmtk/VUKI5-pJ0ZI/AAAAAAAACqk/aB2pW_GioHc/s1600/CIMG4990.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-niU3QlMtmtk/VUKI5-pJ0ZI/AAAAAAAACqk/aB2pW_GioHc/s1600/CIMG4990.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Without a doubt the photo above is one my favorite in this series. The lush green of the forest and overgrowth on this sunny day, engulfing the simple but lovely arches of the terrace are very pleasant to my eye. I stood where I was on one of the garden terraces just taking in the view. It reminded me of a Roman ruin almost, but in this case the stonework looks in excellent shape; it is certainly no ruin. Unfortunately for me, however, I could not seem to figure out how to get over there. The view back at the Heidelberg Castle ruins would no doubt have made for a very good photograph. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gkFVJqfdoM3bCKU-BMG-t1CEhTYMd4NWOoKI12-M-esIa83xTTa9kIm0bZuFQij126qln1uWZIrpe9zm_zLwscM-aIuJYSX8E-wXySUEFRTEyOvm_w5JcaswsYOuBDGV7KQe6nZ1jz0/s1600/CIMG4989.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gkFVJqfdoM3bCKU-BMG-t1CEhTYMd4NWOoKI12-M-esIa83xTTa9kIm0bZuFQij126qln1uWZIrpe9zm_zLwscM-aIuJYSX8E-wXySUEFRTEyOvm_w5JcaswsYOuBDGV7KQe6nZ1jz0/s640/CIMG4989.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">See this very interesting two-and-a-half minute video on the destruction of Heidelberg Castle present by <i>Spiegel Online</i>. It shows a beautifully recreated castle before and during its downfall, as well as an easy-to-follow <a href="http://www.spiegel.de/video/video-the-destruction-of-heidelberg-castle-video-1312893.html" target="_blank">explanation</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Trains</b> of all types leave frequently each day from major cities such as <b>Frankfurt, Mannheim, </b>or<b> </b></span><span style="font-size: large;"><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Karlsruhe, D</b><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">armstadt, etc.</b></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> on a regular basis. Heidelberg is such a famous tourist destination and international university city, that you will have no trouble finding Heidelberg on any train schedule. The average train ride from any of the above-mentioned cities should be one hour or less, depending on the particular train you choose.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The castle itself is not visible from the main train station. Taking a bus or tram from just outside the station into the Old Town, Bismarckplatz, or any other stop after Bismarckplatz will put you almost at the foot of the great castle. All you need to do is look up and see it. Then, get ready to climb... Enjoy!</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-59939984097381813512015-04-29T18:18:00.000+02:002015-12-31T11:03:20.596+01:00The Portals of Durlach: its windows and doors<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">October 2012, I moved from Stuttgart, where this blog all started, to Durlach, which is actually where the city of Karlsruhe started 300 years ago this year. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The Margraves of Baden-Durlach resided here in what has become today a suburb of its daughter city, but before 1715 it was the seat of margrave rule. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">What is a margrave, you might ask? The German word is <i>Markgraf</i>, and French equivalent, I believe, is <i>marquis</i>, a title which the British also still use in their ranks of aristocratic titles. Anyway, these nobles were originally military men given the responsibility of defending the "marches", or borderlands. The British word for the feminine equivalent is "<u>march</u>ioness". As I began to think about it and look through historical maps, surely enough, I found that the lands of a margrave were indeed right on the borders with other territories. In the case of Durlach, it is situated not far at all from the Rhine, across from which other territories once owned by kings or princes of other lands sit against which the local margraves were defend their lands. Today the former margrave's lands are an integral part of modern Baden-Württemberg in the Federal Republic of Germany. Between the time of the margrave of Baden being elevated to the status of grand duke, by Napoleon, many changes and border alterations have occurred in this part of Europe. How will long will the present configuration last?</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now, when I began to travel over here from Stuttgart after work in order to find an apartment before starting my job in Karlsruhe, I can only call it good luck that I ended up in this unique and tight little suburb community on the eastern edge of the city of Karlsruhe. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Romans came through these parts more than two thousand years ago, and it has been permanently settled ever since and maybe even before; I don't know. Whatever the case, in addition to the Romans, the French were back and forth across the border as well over the many centuries and</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> often</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> left their mark through war and fire. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Their last most destructive visit was in 1689 during the Nine-Years' War (also known as the War of the Palatine Succession, amongst others). Unfortunately for Badeners, the Palatine (Pfalz) is only just across the Rhine River. In those days, some Palatine territory was in present-day northern Baden-Württemberg. Rulers of the Palatine were known as electors and much of their territory was intricately woven through that of the Baden margraves as well. The ruling Elector of Palatine's residence was the castle of Heidelberg. (See upcoming post on Heidelberg Castle). </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In 1688, the French king, Louis XIV, supported the claim to the electorship of the Palatine by his sister-in-law the Duchess of Orléans, who was also the sister of the recently deceased elector, Karl. In the end, it was not only a bad war for Louis, but even more disastrous for the people of the Palatine. As he retreated back across the Rhine into France, Louis XIV directed a scorched-earth policy which left not only Durlach, but also other cities such as Heidelberg, Mannheim, Worms and Kaiserslautern utterly destroyed. Baden lands were simply too close to the Palatine and Louis could risk no chance in the margrave's supporting his German cousins in defeating him. Therefore, the burning of Durlach.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kkzIPQGgtc0/VT0hEPiKy6I/AAAAAAAACfM/N4Tm40Wx4_0/s1600/2012-10-20%2B14.32.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kkzIPQGgtc0/VT0hEPiKy6I/AAAAAAAACfM/N4Tm40Wx4_0/s1600/2012-10-20%2B14.32.21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Surely you have seen pictures of the world-famous ruins of Heidelberg Castle? Well, that was destroyed at the same time the French made that notorious visit through the lands of Baden. As already stated, King Louis XIV was committed to burning everything in his retreat; and, well, he pretty much did. He burned the margrave out of his palace here in Durlach as well the rest of the town. This went on all over the lands of the margrave to make it clear that he, Louis XIV, would have no contender for the Palatine. Although the armies of Louis XIV were just about the most powerful in this part of Europe at that time, he did not get his way despite this destructive nine-year war. Later, in 1701, it would all happen again.</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dZv6id-TTpE/VT0hK0wreVI/AAAAAAAACfg/oeBr2fdi_u0/s1600/2012-10-20%2B14.34.15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-dZv6id-TTpE/VT0hK0wreVI/AAAAAAAACfg/oeBr2fdi_u0/s1600/2012-10-20%2B14.34.15.jpg" width="240" /></a><span style="text-align: left;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now the point of this history lesson and what it has to do with windows, doors and any city gates is that almost everything seen here in Durlach today was constructed or reconstructed post 1689. It is said that my home was the first to be rebuilt in the town after the fires. The margrave's palace had to wait for some time because the townspeople were not too sure about letting him back in since he didn't let them know Louis' plans of burning them out ahead of time so they could run. You see, as the Margrave was of the noble and ruling class, King Louis gave him heads up about his plans, giving the margrave time to escape. Loving prince, right? Anyway, the building I live in, which is not seen in this particular post, was erected in 1690. However, it turns out that Louis' armies, as powerful as they were, missed a couple of houses as the conflagration consumed the town. A couple of buildings did survive, so my home is not oldest one. In some of these photos, you will notice some dates carved into the frames above a few of the doors which clearly go back to before 1689. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitrkU_40L2BVTLQpA-RnoWNKHdf6nFRhS9SitK61yZ51mN-WFWnSwua3WLhKOXDzIl7Ye8kuz9_OvT60PFykSu4MISeC8yxcG5kcb6UyRKF8k0mwh843oSs00G03NhF2jU1y-sLLWfTpo/s1600/2012-10-28+12.27.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitrkU_40L2BVTLQpA-RnoWNKHdf6nFRhS9SitK61yZ51mN-WFWnSwua3WLhKOXDzIl7Ye8kuz9_OvT60PFykSu4MISeC8yxcG5kcb6UyRKF8k0mwh843oSs00G03NhF2jU1y-sLLWfTpo/s1600/2012-10-28+12.27.06.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I am so fortunate to have the opportunity to experience life in this town. Being the history nut that I am, being able to look out of any of my windows here on the <i>Altstadtring</i> and see such nice buildings and to sit and wonder about the lives that have occupied the rooms of these buildings is a privilege for me. As a kid, I always wanted to live in a historical building, and here I am, merely by coincidence or luck, doing just that.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Going back to what I had started out to say a few paragraphs back is that as I came here to look at an apartment on the marketplace one afternoon, I felt I was in some sort of Colonial Williamsburg, Virginia, which was founded in 1632. (As a native Virginian, I take great pride in the fact that there are older places at home than there are here in Durlach. LOL) I knew I would end up here.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Notice the date. This home somehow survived the fire of 1689.<br />A piece of history trivia: the first English child, Virginia Dare, </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>to be born in North America was born just one year before in 1587 </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>in what is today North Carolina.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yGI2yvZlj9I/VT0iy8O_ERI/AAAAAAAACjA/tQTL4_Zr7V0/s1600/IMG_8390.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="514" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yGI2yvZlj9I/VT0iy8O_ERI/AAAAAAAACjA/tQTL4_Zr7V0/s1600/IMG_8390.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I walked around before my appointment with the real estate lady in order to get to know the neighborhood a bit. I was immediately taken by its charm, restored history and very strong sense of community. It turns out that one never really needs to go into the city center of Karlsruhe for anything if one lives here. It has simply everything. I only go through Karlsruhe to get to work on the other side of the city. Mind you, getting from here into Karlsruhe is only a 15-20 minute bike ride. Durlach is like a town within a city and clearly unique and obvious in that distinction.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggs069F8yDiClSAtNubPN3sfi8R1dro-1Vsqu2Frlilka2f-y2RnSI3_KGJ9figPdulUIB34WhxDV59K3zSAerdkP65DsqSEQYzJrnDm_VvXBO_UmaWwDX7ZfCRQihJZD1KKHQ9JgkVDE/s1600/IMG_8399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggs069F8yDiClSAtNubPN3sfi8R1dro-1Vsqu2Frlilka2f-y2RnSI3_KGJ9figPdulUIB34WhxDV59K3zSAerdkP65DsqSEQYzJrnDm_VvXBO_UmaWwDX7ZfCRQihJZD1KKHQ9JgkVDE/s1600/IMG_8399.jpg" width="470" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">So yes, the doors and windows. Well, I have always had a thing for them. I used to like to draw or sketch them back in Virginia. You know, the elegant though somehow simple door </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">and window</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> frames of those nice old Tidewater plantations of Eastern Virginia </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">(not to be compared to later, antebellum plantations of the deeper South).</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> Over the years, I came to realize that doors and windows somehow represented escape for me - a way out. I used to do a lot of running away in my mind. So, coming here, I was in window-and-door heaven. Couldn't take enough photos of them. And still can't!</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WdN0_XVcxO4/VT0jTV88XFI/AAAAAAAACjY/LeIHAHibkfo/s1600/IMG_8398.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WdN0_XVcxO4/VT0jTV88XFI/AAAAAAAACjY/LeIHAHibkfo/s1600/IMG_8398.jpg" width="456" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I have been particularly drawn to the huge arched doors found in many a city throughout Europe. Depending on which region one finds oneself in Europe, the ones in Durlach have smaller doors within them. The larger doors open up widely enough to allow entry to a wagon, horses, whatever was big enough to require wide berth back in the day. Often there was a court behind the house or building where work went on. Today, many of these surviving passageways leading past the doors and basically through the house before entering the inner court (<i>Innenhof</i>) are used to park bicycles for the tenants. Quite convenient for all sorts of things and sealed from passers-by on the street, Whatever the case, I find them very interesting. They all tell me a story, which I usually make up as I gaze at them.</span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-shCKLMDmM5I/VT0jCT3ToKI/AAAAAAAACjQ/-Wez5Y7Sq9M/s1600/IMG_8397.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-shCKLMDmM5I/VT0jCT3ToKI/AAAAAAAACjQ/-Wez5Y7Sq9M/s1600/IMG_8397.jpg" width="546" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><span style="background-color: red;"><u>S H </u></span><u> </u><span style="color: #bf9000;"><u>U T T E </u></span><span style="background-color: red;"><u> R S</u></span></span></b></h2>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oftzGMIpvac/VT0kL8fqLFI/AAAAAAAACkY/8aKmc2Ua73k/s1600/IMG_8427.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="452" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oftzGMIpvac/VT0kL8fqLFI/AAAAAAAACkY/8aKmc2Ua73k/s1600/IMG_8427.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now just about ANYone who knows me in Germany and Switzerland knows of my almost lunatic obsession with shutters! I love 'em! Shutters, for me, are what put the cherry on the cake in the building of a home. Of course, not all homes or buildings need to have them, nor would they even look good with shutters, but if the house comes from era in which they were originally used, then to take them off is, in my opinion, to destroy the character of the house. Just a minute, w</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">here's my soapbox? Ah, here it is: </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It's a sacrilege! It warrants psychoanalysis on the part of the individuals who claim they are too much trouble to keep and who want to live in a boring - no, drab, dead, soul-less - edifice! It's antiquities abuse! And it is done WAY too much around here! Just walk around and see the naked hinges still embedded within the outside walls of the houses where the shutters once hung. I used to think they were just taken down to paint or clean. Ha! Stupid me. Okay, let me get down off this box and get on with my tour. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6XIUXJ7nw0A/VT0lMKN9ivI/AAAAAAAAClI/YrymC7E1ZSs/s1600/IMG_8433.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6XIUXJ7nw0A/VT0lMKN9ivI/AAAAAAAAClI/YrymC7E1ZSs/s1600/IMG_8433.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Look at the shutters!!!</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rbVqgVVR13I/VT0l0WY5s0I/AAAAAAAACl4/rpLRQ6CrBh0/s1600/IMG_8438.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rbVqgVVR13I/VT0l0WY5s0I/AAAAAAAACl4/rpLRQ6CrBh0/s1600/IMG_8438.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">What can be seen above the main entrances to many buildings can also be an interesting find. Coats of arms are not strange in this case. A number of them can still be found in Durlach. Not all arms were for one individual or family. I believe that some of them represent a guild of some sort as well, but I can't swear to that. If anyone of you readers here can understand Latin, let me know and I'lll make a clearer photo of the Latin writing that is sometimes found above the portals. Maybe that will help in finding out the origins. </span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz2ZMKRKyM9DfGd2_A2oCUg0u_XzUDvDAYWIz2s4P_hMEey_2ausGc18PxExKOOKrP5JkVlRIagRk-oIpfxSGTp83FW3jkrkLu4L7nz_cvQcmCL96XlLmLpu57WfyjvV6xJ79wGucnpBs/s1600/IMG_8436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz2ZMKRKyM9DfGd2_A2oCUg0u_XzUDvDAYWIz2s4P_hMEey_2ausGc18PxExKOOKrP5JkVlRIagRk-oIpfxSGTp83FW3jkrkLu4L7nz_cvQcmCL96XlLmLpu57WfyjvV6xJ79wGucnpBs/s1600/IMG_8436.jpg" width="386" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iPWynI8Xv0I/VT0l9PLVVhI/AAAAAAAACmI/Gva3MU_3CQo/s1600/IMG_8441.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iPWynI8Xv0I/VT0l9PLVVhI/AAAAAAAACmI/Gva3MU_3CQo/s1600/IMG_8441.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The grate above the door to the left causes me to wonder what kind of establishment this place was in the beginning. The simple glass window panes above the colorful door to the right tell me that this door is not older than the 19th century. The door itself is only the right ⅔ of the tri-paneled door. Many doors were created in this fashion 100 to 150 years ago.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XuRWa_PD1rI/VT0mThDNW6I/AAAAAAAACmY/5YIKfsTmntQ/s1600/IMG_8445.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XuRWa_PD1rI/VT0mThDNW6I/AAAAAAAACmY/5YIKfsTmntQ/s1600/IMG_8445.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Can you find the shutters? Might be hard to see.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vUJekjSH1kw/VT0kGRs_HiI/AAAAAAAACkQ/_IZJTzWltCY/s1600/IMG_8424.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vUJekjSH1kw/VT0kGRs_HiI/AAAAAAAACkQ/_IZJTzWltCY/s1600/IMG_8424.jpg" width="444" /> </a></div>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Ms1mflg5Q5rf7QwZhZoN1gC308oOcY2rqZWOXHfX7QDHguQ18DlmRTh20ls62ZcFLp1UThzQyzLLrM_JcODJc3VrZ1hzRkqjnFRXKZA9aaj3c0n0fdxsxax-0hWF3xUvCSftzPhCtU/s1600/IMG_8443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Ms1mflg5Q5rf7QwZhZoN1gC308oOcY2rqZWOXHfX7QDHguQ18DlmRTh20ls62ZcFLp1UThzQyzLLrM_JcODJc3VrZ1hzRkqjnFRXKZA9aaj3c0n0fdxsxax-0hWF3xUvCSftzPhCtU/s1600/IMG_8443.jpg" width="339" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc9Ms1mflg5Q5rf7QwZhZoN1gC308oOcY2rqZWOXHfX7QDHguQ18DlmRTh20ls62ZcFLp1UThzQyzLLrM_JcODJc3VrZ1hzRkqjnFRXKZA9aaj3c0n0fdxsxax-0hWF3xUvCSftzPhCtU/s1600/IMG_8443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"></a><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-du2gU13qArY/VT0j6OwfNrI/AAAAAAAACkI/glIrnT5Hpnw/s1600/IMG_8417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-du2gU13qArY/VT0j6OwfNrI/AAAAAAAACkI/glIrnT5Hpnw/s1600/IMG_8417.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>This portal is the "Basler Tor", or Basel Gate. It is the only such tower gate left<br />in Durlach and was the south exit leading in the direction of Basel, Switzerland,<br />which is where the Margraves of Baden-Durlach also had a residence.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The next three photos show three different shades of green shutters. In the first photo, the shutters are simple pieces of wood - completely utilitarian. Sadly, the large shutters on the bottom windows were removed very recently. This house is a neighbor of mine. Every time I walk by it, I wonder if the top-floor shutters will still be there. The hinges can still be seen on the sides of the windows on the ground floor.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>The location of this completely new building is where the western segment of the city wall of<br />Durlach once stood. Why do I include it in this posting? Well, I had to give it several points<br />for at least being very colorful and not drab, even though the windows are so simple. I rather<br />like it. After all, it is 2015 and I can't roll back time even though I sometimes wish I could.<br />Like my posting about Berlinerplatz in Stuttgart a couple of years ago here, I have to make<br />an effort to befriend some change. </i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This last photo is of the Durlach town wall on the northern side of the Old Town. In many cases, privates dwellings took advantage of city walls so they could build their homes against it and save money on building one of the walls of their own homes. Today, the wall itself has basically become home to about a dozen or so dwellings, with the arches becoming entrances or rooms themselves.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Visiting Durlach, if in the Karlsruhe area, would be highly suggested. The old town hall from the first half of the 19th century, located on the <i>Marktplatz</i>, or main square, is quite attractive with its gabled façade. Restaurants and cafés here are quite charming as well and offer quite good local fare. Durlach is at the end of a major artery that runs east-west through the city of Karlsruhe and is located at the foot of the Turmberg, where a 12th century castle-fortress once stood above the town of Durlach. From the top of the large, square tower that remains of that fortress, the view on a clear day allows you to see all the way to France, the Pfalz across the Rhine and almost to the Hessian border to the north. It's worth a visit and good walk about. If you're lucky, you can arrange for the night watchman to give you the lantern tour of Durlach in the evenings.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Check it out...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b style="text-decoration: underline;">How to get to Durlach:</b> from Karlsruhe city center, the number 1 tram (Durlach) will carry you all the way down through Durlach's main street, Pfinztalstrasse, and end at the Turmberg stop. It should take only about 15-20 minutes from the Karlsruhe Marktplatz. The number 2 tram (Wolfartsweier) will take you as far as the stop for the Durlach train station before veering off to Wolfartsweier. Other trams are available directly to the Durlach train station and from there, you can walk into the town.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><u>From Karlsruhe main station:</u></b> there are several trains and S-bahns that run through Durlach station. The trip is only about 5 minutes if you take the larger trains.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><u>Cycling:</u></b> from the center of Karlsruhe eastward along Kaiserstrasse which becomes Durlacher Allee is also an option, using the bike path that runs beside this route. I can bike it in 15 to 20 minutes as well. There are other designated bike paths to get there as well. Check <i>Google Maps</i> for bike paths in the greater Karlsruhe area</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><u style="font-weight: bold;">By car</u>, it is off exit 44 (Karlsruhe-Durlach exit) from the A5. Just follow the signs.</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-86287665129594465942015-04-26T00:42:00.001+02:002015-05-15T01:13:00.807+02:00A second chance for Bruchsal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><i>Well, I have to say that I owe Bruchsal a big apology.</i> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">It isn't what I thought it was - ugly and depressing. Nope, Bruchsal, so it seems, is a very nice little town. To be honest, despite its long history, I think the baroque Schloß Bruchsal and St. Peter's church are what make it worthwhile to visit. But that's okay, because those two places alone will make your visit something to remember. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">But, I am so glad I gave it a second chance because despite my personal requisites for what makes a city livable for me, it sure as heck doesn't mean it can't be enjoyed by someone else. Following this recent visit I find myself so impressed that I humbly bow in apology for having spoken ill of the place since that first visit several years ago. (Of course, I have to throw in here that the spectacular weather probably didn't hurt.) So, if historical architecture and exquisite ceiling murals are on your lists of interests, then this former residence town of 18th century prince-bishops of Speyer is a must. </span></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Cherry orchard behind the garden wall of one of the several </span></b></i></div>
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<i><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Bruchsal Palace dependencies. Today, several of these </span></i></b></i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A view of the major dependencies which are located at the garden entrance of Schloß Bruchsal.<br />(The train tracks - not station - is directly across the road from here. If you know when to look,<br />you can see it zoom past your train window.)</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">There is a reason I brushed off Bruchsal a few years ago as a seemingly depressing place with little more to offer except for this little palace. It was a typical, dreadfully gloomy German winter's day with a bit of fog hanging about and obviously no leaves on the trees to be found. I had been making a habit of going somewhere out of Stuttgart every other weekend so I could take pictures and simply enjoy a day trip and get to know my new country. Upon arriving at the train station, which doesn't have much to boast to those passing through its doors, I walked out onto the street and was slammed in the face with YET another view of 1960's (give or take a few years) architecture. Having heard way too often as an excuse that the bland, drab buildings of this era were due to lack of money in all the rebuilding that had to go on post war, I rolled my eyes and thought oh no, not another such rebuilt town. (By the way, lack of much money does not mean something <i>must</i> be ugly, as if by rule.) </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Entrance through the garden.<br />Few enter through these gates, however, as the other side of the palace<br />is on the town side where a main road goes through.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well, I started walking through this large town of Bruchsal and although the streets did appear quite clean and tidy, it just didn't have much appeal outside of simply being a place to reside. I walked to the palace, which</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, by the way, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">is not far at all from the station, and only viewed it from the street side, not the garden side. I walked into the main entrance and did in fact like the ceilings of the ground-floor entry of the <i>corps de logis</i>, but as I was not interested on that drab day to go through the entire palace on a tour, I went out front and walked around. It was "okay" but I wasn't impressed. The weather was depressing me, but I realize now that I was having more than just a bad day. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">There was hardly anything going on there. I walked about town, looking for a good hot coffee which I eventually found, but the town itself seemed so dull and had nothing to offer me as far as old beautiful buildings which I had hoped to see. But, here's the clencher: I began at that time to realize something about my own health in those days which a year or so later was to surface quite clearly; I was suffering from pretty deep depression. I am now convinced (and no longer depressed) that it was for this reason that I left Bruchsal with such a bad taste in my mouth. Nothing there pleased me. I had wiped it off my list of places to see; been there, didn't buy the T-shirt. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">But, I came back last weekend which was warm and very sunny. My experience in Bruchsal is worth posting here and telling you that if you should be in the area, the baroque Schloß Bruchsal is absolutely worth your time. But, be sure to walk all around the grounds. Pay attention to everything. Read all the little plaques on the outside of doors. Further down here, you will see an aerial view of the palace and its dependencies. Everything that was destroyed in the Second World War has been meticulously and correctly rebuilt based on original designs by Anselm Franz von Ritter zu Groenesteyn as well as Balthasar Neumann. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Inside the walls of the cherry orchard.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;">I</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">n the next few photos here, you will see what happens if you don't give up halfway from the gates to the palace. Even in winter, so long as the sun is shining (warning: good luck finding that in southwestern Germany), the palace will be worth the visit both inside and out. Exotic and elegant flower gardens? Um, sorry, no. Some spring flowers? Yes. You have already seen the cherry blossoms above which are thick and abundant; however, as you will see in the photos below, the palace is so colorful - dare I say like <i>Candyland</i> - that carpets of tulips or daffodils or anything else would almost clash with this place. The prince-bishops and architects who designed and built Bruchsal certainly knew how to overcome dull German winters: just paint the residence in a variety of colors.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The closer one gets, the more the unsuspecting eye begins to register the amount of <br />colorful artistry on the walls of the buildings.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>To the left can be seen a yellow-and-green-colored structure whose twin is on the<br /> opposite side of the main building.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><u>History of the Prince-bishop's palace at Bruchsal</u></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">So, let's take a look at how this palace came to be. </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Schloß Bruchsal is actually a small part of the long and interesting history of the city and environs of Bruchsal. Although settlement in the area dates back thousands of years and the region </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">was also known to the Romans, excavations within the city limits near St. Peter's Catholic church have uncovered traces of settlement dating as far back as 640 A.D. I'd say that qualifies the city as being rather old. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">I took a photo of this aerial photograph that is posted outside of the<br />palace to show the extent of the park. As I looked at this photo, I<br />realized that it is not quite up-to-date. The trees in the great park have<br />expanded their branches to create shade over the paths since this was <br />taken, as can be seen in the photograph below. Still, in this </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">photo, </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">one </span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">can still see 90% of all buildings associated with the palace, </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">minus the </span></i></b><br />
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<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">as a major gate which goes over the street in front at the left. </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;"></span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Photographs </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">of those two edifices are further down in this posting.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The connection between Bruchsal the historical Bishopric of Speyer, which is located on the western side of the Rhine River in what is today the German state of Rhineland-Palatinate (<i>Rheinland-Pfalz</i>), dates back quite far. In 1056, Heinrich III gave the then settlement of Bruchsal to Konrad I, Prince-Bishop of Speyer. At the time, Speyer, like many ecclesiastic domains, held additional land besides that which made up their immediate parrish. Bruchsal was just one of a number of other towns under the rule of a prince-bishop. I would assume that the combination of church property or parrish, together with land or towns that I guess was not technically church/religious property, was the reason for the dual title of "prince" and "bishop". The ruler was not only a "prince" of the church, but also an "earthly" prince as well. These roles were almost always filled by the sons of nobility or younger sons of kings anyway.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Every time I look at this arrangement of buildings, I always think of a </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Russian Tsarist Palace. Tsarskoye Selo?</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qjivutNUyW4/VTPU2-KxGyI/AAAAAAAACYk/RLa2MryroRg/s1600/IMG_8505.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qjivutNUyW4/VTPU2-KxGyI/AAAAAAAACYk/RLa2MryroRg/s1600/IMG_8505.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Note that just about everything you can see in the form of decorations on the building in the<br />foreground is painted on. Nothing, except the half-columns, is actually three-dimensional.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In time, the city of Speyer became what was known as an Imperial City, which, as far as we are concerned here, meant that the ruler/leader of the city was not the bishop (though I must say, I cannot prove that in all cases). In time, the prince-bishop found it easier to live elsewhere, despite still being head of the cathedral there in Speyer. So, by the late 14th century, the prince-bishops had taken up residence in one of their other palaces outside of the city of Speyer.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIULqHsTHTiN7bmc82GbyId1OuTJpOOjlIMZmsK_v0Fyy4LjTWeLWznKCW1XAglq_mSOQUhxKkPpUuNbnyVeooJLKMaFY8QhChdF99msrVZf-T8n6NGDyP5sIstFl76e-sWjTQgXFjqE/s1600/IMG_8506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRIULqHsTHTiN7bmc82GbyId1OuTJpOOjlIMZmsK_v0Fyy4LjTWeLWznKCW1XAglq_mSOQUhxKkPpUuNbnyVeooJLKMaFY8QhChdF99msrVZf-T8n6NGDyP5sIstFl76e-sWjTQgXFjqE/s1600/IMG_8506.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Direct shot of the same building in the photo above this one. You can see that the figures </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>above the windows are in fact painted on, as is everything else.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-htLZ2sFBrTk/VTPU9rot13I/AAAAAAAACYs/b9ycqUGo234/s1600/IMG_8510.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-htLZ2sFBrTk/VTPU9rot13I/AAAAAAAACYs/b9ycqUGo234/s1600/IMG_8510.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The largest of the simple fountains at Schloß Bruchsal. The intricately painted </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>façades </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>o</i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>f the palace itself make too much extra in the park unnecessary and </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>potentialy </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>somewhat interfering.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;"><b>So how did all of this get started? </b></span><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">In the first half of the 18th century, Prince-Bishop Damian Hugo von Schönborn commissioned a beautiful new palace to be built at Bruchsal to replace the one already there. At about the same time, he also commissioned the building of St. Peter's church which can be seen just above the city. In 1725 the construction of the exquisite palace was begun based on the initial designs of Anselm Franz von Ritter zu Groenesteyn. Beginning in 1728, the job of master architect and builder went to Balthasar Neumann, who completed the spectacular grand staircase which can be seen today. Bruchsal Palace has been restored to its original design following almost complete destruction in March of 1945 (See photos of its destruction </span><a href="http://www.belle-alliance.com/bruchsal/wiederaufbau/wiederaufbau.html" target="_blank"><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">here</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">.)</span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-09uLnPL1-WI/VTPVtg1niQI/AAAAAAAACZc/ZIQYV1spmpg/s1600/IMG_8524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-09uLnPL1-WI/VTPVtg1niQI/AAAAAAAACZc/ZIQYV1spmpg/s1600/IMG_8524.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQsH9AThSy0/VTPVpzXleLI/AAAAAAAACZU/CZHBUnHk2z0/s1600/IMG_8528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mQsH9AThSy0/VTPVpzXleLI/AAAAAAAACZU/CZHBUnHk2z0/s1600/IMG_8528.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">For views of the inside of the palace and its ornate baroque artwork, click <a href="http://www.schloss-bruchsal.de/en/home/" target="_blank">here</a> for the official state website about Schloß Bruchsal. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t8IK6wLlDrk/VTPV3WePVaI/AAAAAAAACZk/5l8IfvFgD90/s1600/IMG_8531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-t8IK6wLlDrk/VTPV3WePVaI/AAAAAAAACZk/5l8IfvFgD90/s1600/IMG_8531.jpg" width="446" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Coat of arms of the Prince-Bishops of Speyer to which <br />Bruchsal belonged. Notice the large, almost flat, <br />ecclesiastical Cardinal's hat (which might remind <br />you of the large hats found in Asian rice fields) <br />hovering over the secular prince's crown. These men<br />were not only royal or noble, but also princes of the church. </i></b></span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FNAeLp-TQPw/VTPWAVDnMOI/AAAAAAAACZ0/ceQdu2Nxx9k/s1600/IMG_8532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FNAeLp-TQPw/VTPWAVDnMOI/AAAAAAAACZ0/ceQdu2Nxx9k/s1600/IMG_8532.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bruchsal is not terribly far from the French border. Over a period of several hundred years, the city and much of the surrounding area were regularly subjected to French military dominance with their invasions, occupations and, sadly, destruction. The last major French military activity in Bruchsal was in 1796 with the occupation of the city. </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G3XgTb2MLAs/VTPWVc_aBGI/AAAAAAAACZ8/Iap-HCWOlyE/s1600/IMG_8538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G3XgTb2MLAs/VTPWVc_aBGI/AAAAAAAACZ8/Iap-HCWOlyE/s1600/IMG_8538.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">In 1803, with Napoleon's secularization of church territory with the fall of the Holy Roman Empire, the former residence city of the Prince-Bishops of Speyer was given to Margrave Karl-Friedrich of Baden-Durlach by the famous French emperor. In 1806, the emperor granted the margrave a boost in title status; quilted together a couple of other nearby territories and principalities, including Fürstenberg; and the Grand Duchy of Baden was born with the margrave as its first grand duke. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ouqCoSFlZ9o/VTPWXkHcjSI/AAAAAAAACaE/Vt9BbS96K6w/s1600/IMG_8546.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ouqCoSFlZ9o/VTPWXkHcjSI/AAAAAAAACaE/Vt9BbS96K6w/s1600/IMG_8546.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: small;"><b>This large building can be found across the street directly outside the main gate </b></span></i><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><b><i>of the palace. </i><i>I</i><i>t was </i><i>damaged in the war, but the main structure and </i><i>interiors </i></b></span></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><b><i>o</i></b></span></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">f the building were left standing. Today, </span></i><i><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif;">it is used as a government building</span>.</span></i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-USLbTVTQr3c/VTPWsIskQJI/AAAAAAAACac/AvDgSxJ8M3Y/s1600/IMG_8549.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-USLbTVTQr3c/VTPWsIskQJI/AAAAAAAACac/AvDgSxJ8M3Y/s1600/IMG_8549.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Direct view of the building. The red bricks on the facade are actually all painted on.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DRrPiyfutLU/VTPWlJTTwtI/AAAAAAAACaU/WqB46AXg1iA/s1600/IMG_8552.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DRrPiyfutLU/VTPWlJTTwtI/AAAAAAAACaU/WqB46AXg1iA/s1600/IMG_8552.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fortunately, this gate-like building found outside of the gates of the</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">palace complex is original, as it survived the war relatively unscathed. </span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NKRVFo5gg8M/VTPW7Bw5Y4I/AAAAAAAACas/Ka1tseIgoaM/s1600/IMG_8555.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NKRVFo5gg8M/VTPW7Bw5Y4I/AAAAAAAACas/Ka1tseIgoaM/s1600/IMG_8555.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">The tower steeple of the palace chapel lost its cupola in the bombing and was burned out; </span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">however, the rest remained and was restored in detail.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-08LRVcNalE2Djm3O6Sse6D9O8BkLVGZyEp-EWaH9eQwGl5NH4gOwIDmVgFgRhicho0IysCMnrCn7Mgc32meuN2SvySK94XjBuQI9eNTr_8YYt9BivHid0IFHaAxvrl7Iuj55UJ2Gxo/s1600/IMG_8558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr-08LRVcNalE2Djm3O6Sse6D9O8BkLVGZyEp-EWaH9eQwGl5NH4gOwIDmVgFgRhicho0IysCMnrCn7Mgc32meuN2SvySK94XjBuQI9eNTr_8YYt9BivHid0IFHaAxvrl7Iuj55UJ2Gxo/s1600/IMG_8558.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The end of hereditary monarchy in Baden, along with the hundreds of years of the rule by the House of Zähringen (of Baden), came to a close in 1918 with the end of the First World War. Some of the dependencies of Schloß Bruchsal were already being used as apartments and government offices for some time even during the grand-duchy period. Now, the beautiful main house would become a museum for all to visit.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FBKOeqVwxho/VTPXBnbA-hI/AAAAAAAACa0/p0Zkd5gNv6s/s1600/IMG_8559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FBKOeqVwxho/VTPXBnbA-hI/AAAAAAAACa0/p0Zkd5gNv6s/s1600/IMG_8559.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">I found this fountain across the street from the palace a real delight. </span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">The snails with water spouting from their antennae beneath the face</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">of what looks like a little child spewing water out of its mouth as well</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">were too good to pass up.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbtKeiGYo3e-yb8v6lQ2XZtd1MMRdRbIHNT5QTWkWoqB-h1JBih9utu0iZX3ximggPvCgkZWwZ6JRbVrQWc7qDqi1lJagzGnz6EUYG6Yva3-xT5QTBdxGGE3tZyGfPQeXJSDGxH1eIP4/s1600/IMG_8562.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCbtKeiGYo3e-yb8v6lQ2XZtd1MMRdRbIHNT5QTWkWoqB-h1JBih9utu0iZX3ximggPvCgkZWwZ6JRbVrQWc7qDqi1lJagzGnz6EUYG6Yva3-xT5QTBdxGGE3tZyGfPQeXJSDGxH1eIP4/s1600/IMG_8562.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BM-gF1aQOh4/VTPXejLd9YI/AAAAAAAACbM/vU5c0OPqSvM/s1600/IMG_8579.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BM-gF1aQOh4/VTPXejLd9YI/AAAAAAAACbM/vU5c0OPqSvM/s1600/IMG_8579.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">The original buildings here were constructed to house a hospital, built and patronized by the</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">prince-bishop at the time and the Duchess of Orléans in the 18th C. It is located </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">along </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">the</span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;"> street next to t</span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">he palace and is part of the entire complex.</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Some shots of other finds in the city of Bruchsal are below.</b> I'm sure I could have added more here, but I figured I would leave something for you to discover when you go.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">When walking away from the palace and simply exploring around the town, you will easily find not only a number of historical markers that you should make a point of reading, but a number of nice buildings both public and private as well. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> </span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T4dWXVaM2O8/VTPXtIezahI/AAAAAAAACbU/LguotGwCFnU/s1600/IMG_8581.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="438" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T4dWXVaM2O8/VTPXtIezahI/AAAAAAAACbU/LguotGwCFnU/s1600/IMG_8581.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">I left the palace and found myself heading, minus map or compass, through the pedestrian shopping district, across a very small bridge of some historical significance, and upward. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">I passed the houses in the photo to the left and kept on walking, enjoying the buildings I was finding. It was becoming clear to me at that point that although the inner city had been badly damaged by the bombing, its circumference had not. It was also up here that I came across one of Germany's many beautifully manicured cemeteries with its perfectly laid-out flowers and shrubs planted directly on top of and around the graves themselves - very different from North American cemeteries and such a visual pleasure to walk through. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>St. Peter's Catholic church - built by Prince-Bishop Hugo </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>von Schönborn of Speyer </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>around the same time as </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Bruchsal Palace</i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i> in </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>the first </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>half of </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>the </i></b></span><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>18th century.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>How to get to Bruchsal</u> from Karlsruhe main train station: </b>the trip is anywhere from 12 to 20 minutes depending on whether you choose a local tram or a regional train. Many people who live in Bruchsal work in Karlsruhe so a number of options are available every hour.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>Via Autobahn from Karlsruhe:</u></b> take the <b>A5</b>. Signs are everywhere for Bruchsal.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>How to get there from Stuttgart main train station:</u></b> there are two or three trains each hour ranging from around 25 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes depending whether you choose a regional (RE) or inter-City (IC). </span></span><br />
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-11644334228447155562015-04-18T23:56:00.002+02:002015-05-15T01:13:20.106+02:00Weinheim: Beautiful Border Town on the Bergstrasse along the Odenwald on the border between Hessen and Baden-Württemberg<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">After my short visit to Weinheim the day after Easter, I was looking through all the photos I had taken whilst there and realized that it was going to be hard for me to write something about this ancient town. There were a number of questions that came to mind as my friend and I walked through the cobblestoned streets from top to bottom; questions that presented themselves when walking through the leather-tanners' quarter, the Jewish quarter and the very narrow canals running down the streets up against the houses. Questions such as, who built the former castle residence above the <i>Marktplatz</i> and Old Town; was there an older castle there before? How did Weinheim get its name? The name the Romans had given it had little to do with <i>Wein</i> (wine)<i>.</i> The Teutonic Knights had a headquarters here at one time. The cloister next to the St. Laurentius Catholic church above Weinheim's <i>Marktplatz</i>: when was it founded, and who granted the land for it? And not least, the large castle ruins on the hill opposite the town which can be seen by all down below: when was it built, by whom, and for what reasons? Questions, questions, questions. But questions are why I like to travel and learn. I'm filled with them.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><i>Weinheim </i>Rathaus<i>, or city hall, up on the hill.<br />The city hall occupies the former castle of the ruling family.</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>Another view of the </i>Rathaus</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><i><b>In front of the </b>Rathaus<b>. Claimed to be the largest Lebanon cedar in Germany.</b></i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">During the short period we were there, walking all about, we were not able to learn but so many answers to the questions that arose, so I had to come home and visit the Internet to satisfy my curiosity, and I found that Weinheim is most definitely a town worth reading about if you really do appreciate history; it is full of it! And not just because it is old. Just google it yourself and do more than just depend on <i>Wikipedia</i> to do your learning. Then, make your trip; take your camera and walking/hiking shoes and explore it. It will be worth your efforts.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>In the Market Square of Weinheim</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-style: italic;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another angle of the </span></b><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Marktplatz</span></b><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> of Weinheim, leading down from the </i><br /><i>St. Laurentius church. The </i>Markplatz<i> contains a number of cafés and shops.</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>St. Laurentius Catholic Church of Weinheim</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><i>Lower </i>Marktplatz<i>: The </i>Altes Rathaus<i> (right) of Weinheim</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>Another view of the </i>Brunnen<i> (well) in front of the old Weinheim </i>Rathaus</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><b>I found this house particularly interesting not only because of the </b></span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b>High above, the castle ruins of Windeck overlook the tanners quarter </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b>in the lower town, which constitutes much of the oldest part of </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>I was especially impressed not only by the extreme cleanliness of this </i></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>oldest part of Weinheim, but also that there was no graffiti to be found </i></b></span></div>
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<i><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">anywhere - </span></b><span style="font-size: small;"><b>something sadly problematic in Germany, </b></span></span></i></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>even on historical buildings.</i></b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">Easter decorations during my visit on Easter Monday.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>I think this sign makes it quite clear that this is a bakery.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><i>Close quarters </i></span></b><br />
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<i><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">I am a total sucker for these narrow structures some </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">of these medieval </span></b></i></div>
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<i><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">towns boast. </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;">I don't think my sofa would be able to fit at the end </span></b></i></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><i>of the room in this skinny little house.</i></span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Main house of the Hermannshof Weinheim Botanical Garden</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The Hermannshof Weinheim is a botanical garden that was first begun 200 years ago as a private garden. Over the years, this fine garden of 2.2 hectares has been developed and modified into the marvelous exhibition of such a variety of plant specimens from various climates. Definitely worth a stroll! (Leave your dog outside though.)</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-4-MUP9NBE/VSjt24YOF4I/AAAAAAAACTQ/T6Vx5MnHWkc/s1600/IMG_8201.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6-4-MUP9NBE/VSjt24YOF4I/AAAAAAAACTQ/T6Vx5MnHWkc/s1600/IMG_8201.jpg" width="480" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>I was quite pleased to find this Sequoia tree in the Hermannshof Weinheim park. </i></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">It was planted there in </span></b><b><span style="font-size: small;">the 1880s. I do not know how old or big it </span></b></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><i>was when it was planted.</i></span></b></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpPZMeh1jv5zCK40xtcgr09g40nDvLR7ZVkF5Xk1MFAjY-EazUezYjR7-vy1DInrUnF4Q7AzJpZH7DYyUrBwxg1zy4fkExv-VbrSRF9CnfNvLF4UMlvVhPN-7K62i3nIoZDc153dn484o/s1600/IMG_8198.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpPZMeh1jv5zCK40xtcgr09g40nDvLR7ZVkF5Xk1MFAjY-EazUezYjR7-vy1DInrUnF4Q7AzJpZH7DYyUrBwxg1zy4fkExv-VbrSRF9CnfNvLF4UMlvVhPN-7K62i3nIoZDc153dn484o/s1600/IMG_8198.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>Looking at the ruins above the town of Weinheim, I have to ask myself if the </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>inhabitants post 1674, when it was dismantled by the French army, looked up there </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>and viewed those ruins as somehow romantic. Or, was it an eyesore for them, rather like </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>looking at rusting tanks, bunkers or neglected military bases for us today? Or, were they </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>just too busy trying to survive daily tribulations and praying that foreign troops would </i></b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>just stop fighting over them?</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="382" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7nq0BsF5HF4/VSjsy1njHoI/AAAAAAAACSg/sfXjI9mrCaU/s1600/IMG_8190.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="640" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>The castle ruins of the larger and older Burg Windeck date back to the 1100's. It was occupied and made unusable by Louis XIV's troops in 1674 during the French-Dutch War, and the stones were used to build houses down in Weinheim. Only these ruins remain. To the left can be seen the red roof of Wachenburg, which was built 800 years later and still used today.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Der Rote Turm</span> </span><i><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;">(the Red Tower)</span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif; font-size: small;">got its name from the </span></i></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>pinnacle atop the 14th C. tower which was originally red. </i></b></span><br />
<b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>It served as a prison until the middle of the 19th C.</i></span></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>Another view of the Red Tower in Weinheim</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The amount of Fachwerk (half-timbered) construction found here indeed tickled my fancy, being the Fachwerk lover that I am. You're lucky I didn't put more of my shots in this post. If you like Fachwerk, then Weinheim is the place to go. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>The arms above another former royal residence in the middle of the older part of town, built in 1710.</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;"><i>Weinheim's city arms hang on this house beneath the<br />German flag.</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I will definitely return when all the trees are in bloom. A blue winter's day is also perfectly fine, but I am sure a hike through a green forest would be nice when heading up to the ancient castle-fortress ruins of Windeck above the city. The Wachenburg, the much younger castle neighbor of Burg Windeck, is not owned by the city or state, but rather to its original builders: the <i>Studenten-Corps Weinheimer Senioren Convent (WSC), and to the Weinheimer Verband Alter Corpsstudenten. </i>It was built between 1907 and 1913.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><u>How to get to Weinheim via train:</u></b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>From Frankfurt main station </b>an Inter-City train leaves every hour for Weinheim. The trip takes between 35-40 minutes.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>From Stuttgart main station </b>there are two trains per hour ranging from 55 minutes to 1hr-20 minutes depending on the type of train.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Weinheim is about 15 kilometers north of Heidelberg and 10 kilometers northeast of Mannheim.</span></span><br />
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-88666380754753632652014-09-13T09:42:00.002+02:002018-07-03T10:23:48.909+02:00Bebenhausen Abbey and Royal Hunting Lodge (re-post)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I have reposted this page as I found it way too long in its original posting last year. You will find here a collection</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> of photographs, many unlabelled, of the last residence of the king and queen of Württemberg, who "retired" here after the end of the monarchy in 1918.</span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </b><br />
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Bebenhausen</b><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> was</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"> a private hunting residence of the Württemberg royal family for generations, long after it had served as a Cistercian monastery and later a boarding school following the Reformation. It</span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"> </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">is beautifully nestled in southern Germany, south of the Baden-Württemberg's capital city, Stuttgart, and not far from the renowned university town of </span><a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2013/06/tubingen-university-on-water.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Tübingen</span></a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Today, Bebenhausen is a museum. It is quite active, as is the village around it. Photographs of the village can be found further down. Queen Charlotte died shortly after World War II, but remained here until her last days. The large lodge within the complex where the king and queen, styled Duke and Duchess after their abdication, lived can be visited. Their furnishings are still in place. It is definitely worth seeing. The duchess was an avid hunter, and the walls are lined with her trophies.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b>Bebenhausen</b> is located in the Schönbuch Forest between the ancient university town of Tübingen and the city of Stuttgart, capital of the present-day federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southern Germany. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Before becoming a royal hunting lodge, Bebenhausen had been a boarding school as well as an abbey before that. It was originally built around 1180 for Cistercian monks. It remained a cloistered community until 1560 when the Reformation was spreading throughout Germany.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Entrance to the ancient Abbey of Bebenhausen</span></b></td></tr>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YnId-UWVX2E/T9-H-iMLNOI/AAAAAAAAA70/JmJiPD0aeU4/s1600/IMG_1881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YnId-UWVX2E/T9-H-iMLNOI/AAAAAAAAA70/JmJiPD0aeU4/s400/IMG_1881.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_g4m9sFVYxqQvN1AU8A1N_pMUeTsOKzo5m67BncpF-e7fPifzIDZkjJxv96lRSof5NgTjwPWWbUEhg8_revXYqGOzeOgoP6AK2e0yQBdR3lCEgJIFAGHQh-iM0NKTZXBKRoCkV4FGHOs/s1600/IMG_1913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_g4m9sFVYxqQvN1AU8A1N_pMUeTsOKzo5m67BncpF-e7fPifzIDZkjJxv96lRSof5NgTjwPWWbUEhg8_revXYqGOzeOgoP6AK2e0yQBdR3lCEgJIFAGHQh-iM0NKTZXBKRoCkV4FGHOs/s400/IMG_1913.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><i>Above</i>: A substantial amount of the walls around the abbey / hunting lodge remain in tact today.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMWAHXIXJ-ONNJiB78y_fcFXIYjSGYSGJKwPiYAq-pmTstNHVZS4zevbRwphtOLITePjHXNy0YzJPjP-x0i9q_tJ69wdiRAuRTiLheJxvtvDVUdtEXZjbcZDDSZ2s-I97eagMQcvfGTk/s1600/IMG_1904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMWAHXIXJ-ONNJiB78y_fcFXIYjSGYSGJKwPiYAq-pmTstNHVZS4zevbRwphtOLITePjHXNy0YzJPjP-x0i9q_tJ69wdiRAuRTiLheJxvtvDVUdtEXZjbcZDDSZ2s-I97eagMQcvfGTk/s640/IMG_1904.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><b><i>Jagdschloß (Royal Hunting Lodge) of Bebenhausen is today just as it was when the </i></b></span><br />
<b style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><i><span style="font-size: small;">royal couple lived there. </span></i></b></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">View of the cloister garden</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: small;"><i>The inner cloister "walk" as I call it.</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Another view of the inner cloister garden which was similar throughout many Cistercian <br />designs in this part of the world</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Ceiling of the former Refectory</span></b></i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Part of the wall that once completely surrounded the Abbey</span></b></i></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>Student dormitory</b></i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">After
the Abbey was disbanded, it later became a school for boys. Rooms where
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<tr align="center"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">The Writer's Tower as seen from the upper garden</span></i></b></span><span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"> </span></i></b></span> </span></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">What I found quite interesting were the "House Rules" on a kitchen wall. One of the rules was that all staff members must remember toonly speak on the grounds or in the upstairs royal rooms when they are spoken to by higher-ups or the Duke or Duchess themselves. Otherwised, silence or "quiet" was expected. Such was life in service at that time.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Writer's Tower<br />as seen from a kitchen </span></i></b><br />
<b><i><span style="font-size: small;">window</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">It is worth mentioning that the buildings that housed the royal couple still have the kitchens in place. It is most interesting to see how the "downstairs" people lived and worked before 1946. The stoves and other appliances of the day that were used in the service area are original and are also on display. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>Ceilings and chandeliers in the formal dining room. When the king was finished eating </b></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>and his plate was removed, the plates of the guests were removed as well, whether you </b></i></span><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><i><b>were finished or not. I hope H.M. wasn't too fast an eater.</b></i></span></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bD5PA3BzKoU/T9-IFD-mzkI/AAAAAAAAA8E/zPI4Embyk6Q/s1600/IMG_1887.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bD5PA3BzKoU/T9-IFD-mzkI/AAAAAAAAA8E/zPI4Embyk6Q/s640/IMG_1887.jpg" width="360" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: small;">To the memory of<br />Württembergs beloved King<br />WILHEM II<br />(Born) Stuttgart, 25 Feb. 1848 - 2 Oct. 1921 (at Bebenhausen)<br />and QUEEN CHARLOTTE<br />(Born) Ratiboritz, 10 Oct. 1864 - 16 July 1946, (at Bebenhausen)</span></td></tr>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-large;">The village surrounding the Royal Hunting Lodge and former abbey of Bebenhausen</span></i></h2>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>Most all of the village is Fachwerk (half-timbered). Note the stream running through </b></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><b>the central "square" of the village, directly outside of the main gate of the abbey-palace.</b></span></i></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Visiting the hamlet of Bebenhausen is completely worth the trip for anyone who appreciates not only history, but also hiking, walking, photography and simply a lovely day out in nature. Autumn is also a perfect time to go as the trees create a different ambience throughout the village. Although I have given little focus to the abbey's church here (the beautiful spire was completely covered with scaffolding for renovations, so I avoided having that "modern mess" in any of my shots), it is most definitely worth the visit. Guided tours are offered and a visitor's center in the middle of the abbey complex is quite helpful.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><u>How to get to <b>Bebenhausen</b></u></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">No train lines or trams run there. Click <a href="https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Stuttgart,+Germany/Bebenhausen,+Germany/@48.6464064,9.0090888,11z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x4799db34c1ad8fd3:0x79d5c11c7791cfe4!2m2!1d9.1817588!2d48.7754181!1m5!1m1!1s0x4799e4fe598e839f:0x4fbe561822a0547d!2m2!1d9.06!2d48.559722!3e0">here</a> for a road map from Stuttgart. The 826 or 828 bus runs to <b>Bebenhausen</b> from the Tübingen main train station. The trip is roughly 20 minutes. Ask the bus driver where to get out. <b>Bebenhausen</b> is small, so you won't have to walk far from the bus stop to get to the the <i>Kloster</i> (abbey). Trains run regularly from Stuttgart main station (HBF) to Tübingen. The trip takes anywhere from 42 minutes to 1 hour depending on the train. Check <a href="http://www.bahn.de/p_en/view/index.shtml">Deutsche Bahn</a> for times and costs.</span><br />
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-16745531792782608462014-09-12T23:54:00.002+02:002015-05-20T11:49:32.355+02:00The half-timbered houses of BRETTEN<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">Well, look at me! Finally, I am travelling further afield. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">This is my first posting outside of the Württemberg part of the state, as tonight's subject, <b>Bretten,</b> is located in Baden. However, in the event you have not read any of my earlier posts, or German history and geography are not at the top of you reading list, the German state of Baden-Württemberg is made up of what was until 1918, the Grand Duchy of Baden and the former Kingdom of Württemberg. And, since I have been living in the Baden part of the state for two years</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> now</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">,</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;"> it's high time I did some reporting on this side. So, here you are.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">The focus of this blog entry is on the <i>Fachwerk</i>, or half-timbered, architecture of yet another of the hundreds of small, historical villages that are found all over this country. <b>Bretten</b> is no exception. Fortunately, the citizens of <b>Bretten</b> have kept many of these wood-beamed façades visible rather than covering them over with plaster, as has been done way too much, in my opinion, taking away the beauty and charm of the houses. I have heard a couple of theories as to why. Some say it is cheaper not to have to keep up the appearance of the wood through treatment and paint, and others have said it is because there came a time when half-timbered houses were considered rough and unrefined, whereas "clean-front" structures looked more modern or permanent or simply even higher class. But I always ask, doesn't more plaster simply mean more paint? In any case, I think the reasons are different from owner to owner, so I really don't know. But I do know fro personal experience based on the beams in my own half-timbered home, this wood is not going anywhere. It is nearly petrified. Yes, it needs to be cared for, but it is so hard that if you hammer a nail in, there is a good chance you will never get it out again. It is indeed remarkably solid after hundreds of years of age and the pressure against it from all sides.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I am pretty sure the home pictured above had exposed beams once upon a time. Nonetheless, I give it points for having the added shutters and flowers to make it pleasant to the eye. Consider it without these two <i>accoutrements</i> and imagine how dull the place would actually appear. Sadly, that is often what one sees now instead in many old towns throughout the country. And it is d-r-a-b. So, hats off to <b>Bretten</b> for being proud of its architectural heritage and showing it off.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In theory, half-timbered houses can be dismantled. Take away the plaster between the beams, take out the joint-pegs and it can be taken apart and moved. Not that I have ever seen this happen, but I guess it was therefore considered a less expensive way to build. It was certainly cheaper to construct than a stone or brick building. Maybe in days gone by these beautiful structures were thought of by people of means as mere medieval "trailer-park" homes. I'm kidding, but whatever the case, you will find a lot of building fronts today that are solid plaster, painted a dreadfully dull color and without their shutters (of course, most half-timbered buildings did not use shutters in the earlier days of their construction), and you would never have known at first glance that they were once as appealing to the eye as some of the examples below and in my other blog entries. Allow me to mention, however, that even in my village, where a number of half-timbered structures still remain, many of the houses with plastered fronts still retain the beautiful </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Fachwerk</i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> on the back of the house. After all, that is not easily seen by passers-by, so the "low-class-</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ness</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">" of the building was not obvious, and they saved money not needing to have the entire place plastered. Oh well, at least it saves part of the house from total ugliness. I'll give some examples in a future posting about my town.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial; font-size: large;">This photo is probably my favorite of the shots I took in <b>Bretten</b>. The lamp posts, the bend in the street, the clean cobblestones, the simple colors somehow make it work for me. The cream-color house very likely had its half-timbered façade visible many years ago. Although I tend to prefer the exposed fronts, the vibrant burnt-orange of the house in the background is very nice.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">I don't know enough about the colors that houses were painted in the early days of <i>Fachwerk</i>, but I'm guessing that color was much more expensive than basic whitewash. Therefore, the color of the house pictured above (also pictured from another side further down) was probably not found on the house hundreds of years ago. But don't quote me. I didn't stop to ask. Still, it's a shade that is such a pleasure for me to look at. By the way, the window in the door, with its little round (wine-bottle bottom) circles is most likely what many of the houses had in the early days. Since it was so difficult to see clearly in or out of those windows, shutters were not needed on the structures that used them.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">At this point, you might be wanting to know a little bit about <b>Bretten</b>. I came out to visit one hot Saturday on the recommendation of a client who knew that I liked old towns like this. It is not such a big place overall and easily seen in an afternoon or less, depending on what you want to see.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">As of this writing, I have found that <b>Bretten</b> has about 28,000 inhabitants. As mentioned somewhere above, it is quite old. When I went to visit, I had never before heard of the <i>Lorsch Codex</i>. Now, rather than doing a bad job of explaining what that ancient manuscript is, I'll let you click </span><a href="http://www.bergstrasse.de/1000-jahre-beedenkirchen/1000j_english_lcodex.html"><span style="font-size: large;">here</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> to read about it yourself. But in that book, <b>Bretten</b> is mentioned as having been around since 767A.D. It was known at that time as "Villa Breteheim". It became a city in 1254, and its coat-of-arms today is still very similar to the blue and white flag of </span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bavaria t</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">hat is so familiar. At one time, this part of Baden was in fact a part of what is known as the Palatinate, which was under the rule of the Dukes of Bavaria hundreds of years ago. In the photo below, you can see the blue and white I am describing here.</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Close-up of the Marketplace fountain. Note the date on the column: 1555.</span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Looking down the street </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">at the various façades </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">j</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">ust off the Marketplace, you can see how some of the older houses have been modernized over the years. These are typical changes that can be seen as one gets further away from town centers – officially known as "old towns" in some places.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The two photos directly below show one of the towers and <b>Bretten's</b> old city wall. The tower leans a bit as you can see here.</span> </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">This home seems to have been built up against the low wall to the left. The center wooden beam is partly supported by it, as you can see here (above). I have seen other houses like this where the external stone wall has been removed for some reason and the house is left looking a bit lopsided. Often, city walls were used as part of the walls of other buildings. I imagine it was perhaps easier and cheaper to take advantage of an existing "free" wall as part of your home than to have to put out the money to build one unnecessarily. Nothing like being resourceful!</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, "Times New Roman", serif; font-size: small;"><strong><em>By the looks of this woodwork, it isn't going to fall easily.</em></strong></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Bretten</b> is worth the visit if you have a few hours to spare. It's a nice place to walk around and enjoy. There is more to see than what I am posting here. </span><a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/373644/Philipp-Melanchthon"><span style="font-size: large;">Philipp Melanchthon</span></a><span style="font-size: large;"> was born in <b>Bretten</b> in 1497. Together with Martin Luther, he is a primary founder of what we know as Lutheranism. The beautiful museum on the Market Square </span></span><span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">built to remember him</span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> is impressive and certainly worth the visit if you are interested in history of the Reformation.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b><u>How to get to Bretten</u></b></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">From<b> Karlsruhe </b>via train<b>: t</b>he IC (inner city train) as well as trams can get you there. The <b>S4 </b>outside the front of the Karlsruhe main station takes you there </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">directly, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">with no changes, </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">in about 45 minutes. Other trams or the IC will require a change at either Bruchsal or Mühlacker, making your trip 5-10 minutes longer. Check </span></span><a href="http://www.bahn.de/p_en/view/index.shtml" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">Deutsche Bahn</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> for train schedules.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">From <b>Stuttgart </b>via train<b>: </b>depending on your time of travel, the trip via train and tram could take anywhere from roughly 55 - 90 minutes. There are no direct trains from Stuttgart. A change must be made in either Bruchsal or Mühlacker. Check </span><a href="http://www.bahn.de/p_en/view/index.shtml"><span style="font-size: large;">Deutsche Bahn</span></a><span style="font-size: large;">.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Via car:</b> this is where the modern technology of <b>navigators</b> or the time-honored method of</span></span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"> <b>maps</b> come in handy.</span> </span><br />
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-25466686563423124442014-09-07T14:40:00.001+02:002015-05-15T01:14:23.930+02:00Calw, Hermann Hesse's Half-timbered Heimat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well, I think the next best posting that I could make should be about the other town I talked about in the last post, which is about Hirsau. So let me introduce you to <b>Calw </b>(pronounced: /Kahlv/), the larger of those two towns and only a few kilometers further south along the Nagold River in the Black Forest region of Baden-Württemberg. It was the Count of <b>Calw </b>– Adelbert, I think his name was – who, more than 1,000 years ago, supported the founding of <a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2014/08/hirsau-historic-religious-treasure-in.html">Hirsau Monastery</a>. And, it was in <b>Calw</b> only about 135 years ago, that <b>Hermann Hesse</b>, their most famous son, was born.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had been here before, but I was so enthralled by the ruins of Hirsau, which I saw from the windows of the train as I travelled from Pforzheim to <b>Calw</b>, that I spent my time in <b>Calw</b> thinking more about how to return to Hirsau than actually enjoying this lovely, historical city. Hence, the return last Saturday.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The author of "Steppenwolf" and "Siddhartha" standing on the<br />Nikolausbrücke over the Nagold River in Calw.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had coffee with Eva in Durlach around 10:00 at our favorite little café on the Altstadtring just across from my home. It was only the night before that I had decided at the last minute that I needed to resume my photo-taking day trips which had seemed to have fallen off my things-to-do list for some months at that point. I have so many photos in my external drive, and I had planned to do something with them all, such as make more blog posts. But, I realized that despite all the pictures I have – and we're talking several thousand now – I just didn't have enough to be able to give a decent show on <b>Calw</b>! I had just completed the Hirsau page last week and written about <b>Calw</b> several times in that post, but of the three or four measly pics I had decided to keep, they just weren't enough to make a story out of it, so back I went following coffee with Eva.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iHZrOsS03p0/VAN6z49P0zI/AAAAAAAAB-U/Qae1kBNRU9Q/s1600/IMG_6376.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iHZrOsS03p0/VAN6z49P0zI/AAAAAAAAB-U/Qae1kBNRU9Q/s1600/IMG_6376.JPG" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">The other side of the River Nagold from the main part of Calw. These houses abut a rock-face </span></b><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">that can only be seen when walking along the street directly in front.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">After Eva and I said good-bye, I went directly to the Durlach train station and caught the 11:23 to Pforzheim, where I changed to the 12:something-or-other to <b>Calw</b>. It was basically a modern little single-car/wagon train and it was quite full, as there were many people with their hiking poles and backpacks looking for a nice outing. The last time I took the train some four years or so ago, I had failed to notice along the way, or at least remember, the sight from the train window of Bad Liebenzell, a spa-resort town also along the Nagold River there in the Black Forest. (Note to self: Bad Liebenzell is next - visit in autumn when forest leaves are in full color.)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Anyway, I arrived in Calw at their pathetic excuse for a train station (more like the top deck of the city parking garage, actually!) about 55 minutes after leaving Durlach. The weather was perfect and the Marketplace was just beginning to be taken down after what was no doubt a bustling Saturday morning of trade, as people were walking away with full baskets and armloads of freshly cut flowers, sacks of vegetables and other foodstuffs. It was very similar to what I see out of my windows in Durlach every morning. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Market stalls coming down after a full morning of business.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was on this very square (well, more like a rectangle in the case of Calw's <i>Marktplatz</i>) that Hermann Hesse was born in 1877. His family lived in the house for seven years. Where they went after that I have no idea, but today the ground floor of the building is a shop, though upstairs there are still apartments, I think. Based on the looks of the open windows, I think people still live there. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Birthplace of Hermann Hesse in 1877.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When I went to </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Calw</b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> the first time, I had yet to read any of Hermann Hesse's works. And yes, I am duly ashamed. I am pretty sure that </span><u style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Steppenwolf</u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> was on the summer required-reading list for high school. We had to choose three out of the ten, but I only ever read one anyway, so Lord knows I chose one that I already knew. </span><u style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Steppenwolf</u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, which sounded more like a like a Poe-ish werewolf in a horror story, was definitely not my taste, so I never bothered to pick it up. But, dear reader, rest assured that I have mended my ways and read not only </span><u style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Steppenwolf</u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, but </span><u style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Siddhartha</u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> as well to make up for my sins, and I can tell you that if you haven't read them, you should! I wish I had read them long ago. I am about to begin </span><u style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Glass Bead Game</u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, but don't expect a book review from me! I don't do that kind of thing. Requires more brains, writing talent, and re-writing than I am ever willing to do. I'll just stick to photography and these meagre stories that I add to my pictures.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Nikolauskapelle (St. Nikolaus Chapel) on the Nikolausbrücke (Nickolaus Bridge) <br />in Calw. It is this bridge that statue to Hermann Hesse stands (see photo at top).<br />The bridge was built across the Nagold around 1400.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">By the way, Hesse didn't stick around in Calw. He moved to Switzerland some years before the First World War and stayed there until he died. Fascinating man, Hermann Hesse. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Evidently, Hesse liked to look at the Nagold River from the Nikolaus Bridge in Calw – the bridge photographed above – on which the St. Nikolaus Chapel stands in the middle. It is on that bridge the bronze statue of him can be found.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Leaving Herr Hesse on his bridge, I wandered uphill to begin my mini-pilgrimage in search of Hesse's birthplace. I could recall having seen a plaque about his birthplace somewhere in town the last time I was there and I thought it was on a side street somewhere, but after quite a walk about, sometimes going back and forth along the same street, it turned out the house was not far at all from his bridge there. As a matter of fact in is right there in the market square in the middle of town for all to easily find. How kind of his parents to choose that location. Most thoughtful for future tourists. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_eSp-IThvW4/VAN7HOCCAfI/AAAAAAAAB-s/PzVwdjptnQc/s1600/IMG_6381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_eSp-IThvW4/VAN7HOCCAfI/AAAAAAAAB-s/PzVwdjptnQc/s1600/IMG_6381.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But, as I first walked away and upward from the St. Nikolaus' Bridge, the first building I came to at the top of the road, just outside of what had been the city wall, was the Lecture Hall and Reading Room, pictured a. It's a stately building with a fine view of all the town beneath it as it goes down to the Nagold at the bottom. I don't have a shot of that view, for some reason, but trust me, it's there.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zZqmNCyNYd4/VAN7aMuwfQI/AAAAAAAAB_A/uLFVzRBEEQ0/s1600/IMG_6405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zZqmNCyNYd4/VAN7aMuwfQI/AAAAAAAAB_A/uLFVzRBEEQ0/s1600/IMG_6405.jpg" width="480" /></a><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cc3_KWER2yw/VAN7GknGfRI/AAAAAAAAB-o/3-j9fQ3dX2k/s1600/IMG_6384.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cc3_KWER2yw/VAN7GknGfRI/AAAAAAAAB-o/3-j9fQ3dX2k/s1600/IMG_6384.jpg" width="400" /></a> </div>
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Since the 15th century, <b>Calw</b> had been one of the cities which had a monopoly on the salt trade. Salt came from Bavaria and Austria in those days, and the revenue from the trade played a major part in the city's financial situation. It was also exchanged for Württemberg wines. The building pictured above, built in 1696 following the burning of the city by the French in 1692, was used for the storing of the salt.</div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aw51WdyK5-U/VAN7M1DcBFI/AAAAAAAAB-4/3s8suyBlno0/s1600/IMG_6393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Aw51WdyK5-U/VAN7M1DcBFI/AAAAAAAAB-4/3s8suyBlno0/s1600/IMG_6393.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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When I look at the market-square buildings here, I am easily reminded of Bretten, here in Baden. Guess I'll have to do a post on that too since they boast their own "favorite son" as well. It's another beautiful town to enjoy for the afternoon. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ndL-oYAghXyyis54nuHLK7nLbFB57U7y_Y31S3UlFt693sL1-miKOexW5PZ3yQ_s0mYMNlylJsg-1gsUC5dQp-2bfI8GIyAYK2t-g5wMEI9B3eR4Aq0WE1gOWjhlbQxWMQ2VQuC6Njc/s1600/IMG_6399.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ndL-oYAghXyyis54nuHLK7nLbFB57U7y_Y31S3UlFt693sL1-miKOexW5PZ3yQ_s0mYMNlylJsg-1gsUC5dQp-2bfI8GIyAYK2t-g5wMEI9B3eR4Aq0WE1gOWjhlbQxWMQ2VQuC6Njc/s1600/IMG_6399.jpg" width="518" /></a></div>
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You know, once you have seen three or four small German villages that date back a few hundred years–the kinds of villages of half-timbered structures with their central market-place fountains surrounded by cafés and small shops–I guess you've pretty much seen them all. But, I still keep looking for other ones to visit. Part of it is the love of travel and wandering throughout the countryside, and the other part is my eternal search for that place off the beaten track that few people on the outside have seen, a place with fabulous scenery.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Yet another source for community water at the other end of Market Square. What's nice <br />is that very often the water coming out of these beautiful old water fountains is in fact<br />drinkable.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2PnEWop5s3hsvorfeAFwJk-0OI6o6enDzx2P7R9dhKhmdP_YkIjoRG_n3IghqcGA4CqUXNaJHr8S-XIbanXUZBg0unKUt6h7KNRl6zMKTUdF5zfaw5E44rY7geSxWftB7ljNX9gkXzU/s1600/IMG_6403.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih2PnEWop5s3hsvorfeAFwJk-0OI6o6enDzx2P7R9dhKhmdP_YkIjoRG_n3IghqcGA4CqUXNaJHr8S-XIbanXUZBg0unKUt6h7KNRl6zMKTUdF5zfaw5E44rY7geSxWftB7ljNX9gkXzU/s1600/IMG_6403.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Looks like someone decided to buck the trend and do some colorful updates to their home. Works for me!</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">This is the only tower left from the city wall that once surrounded Calw. Long after the <br />wall was largely dismantled, this tower was used as a jail right up into the 1900s.</span></b></td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7l1mp9w1IFM/VAN7w-z1_eI/AAAAAAAAB_g/kLgdy0-oqJI/s1600/IMG_6412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7l1mp9w1IFM/VAN7w-z1_eI/AAAAAAAAB_g/kLgdy0-oqJI/s1600/IMG_6412.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_7hD2TkNSDnQBKUjAxSdPmrPOPJ5Tv4yNbPnUweaODsFmsD_m2sbjWdHY3Ed_v3QkcWaIXfEAEjuz9_7JNXxoQsSRxLWH3X3xVjsq0AY5Z_JESwUTYD-MbqgIdl3oZkpNYx82p5TqmWU/s1600/IMG_6416.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> <img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_7hD2TkNSDnQBKUjAxSdPmrPOPJ5Tv4yNbPnUweaODsFmsD_m2sbjWdHY3Ed_v3QkcWaIXfEAEjuz9_7JNXxoQsSRxLWH3X3xVjsq0AY5Z_JESwUTYD-MbqgIdl3oZkpNYx82p5TqmWU/s1600/IMG_6416.jpg" width="480" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The shingle hanging above the door says<br />it all: "Hermann Hesse Museum<br />Calw"</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Catching up on the news. Reading the latest edition of the local<br />paper. Many local newspapers throughout the country are found posted in glass cases like<br />this for public reading. This may not be a daily paper, so I don't know if they have to <br />change it every day.</b></span></td></tr>
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<b style="text-align: center;">I think this is the first time I have seen the timber painted green. I like<br />it. This house is smack up against the old city wall which still remains<br />on this side of town. Below is another shot of it further down. The sun<br />was directly behind it when I took the photo so the sky is completely<br />washed out.</b></div>
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Something annoying that I've come across often when travelling throughout Germany, looking for good architectural subjects to photograph, has been the seemingly large amount of new <i>Baustelle</i>, or construction, as well as restoration work going on. At just about every location, I have encountered work sites and cranes and fences. Steeples and towers are found covered in scaffolding, and large containers used for construction offices are stacked one on top the over blocking an otherwise good shot. The photos (left and below) demonstrate what I'm talking about. Several of the posts I have created in this blog over the past several years have been "marred" by this and when you travel so see something and it is completely covered, it can be a disappointment. Well, restorations must take place, though it seems they have been doing the whole country at the same time over the past several years; and, new construction most also go on, so, "What 'cha gonna do?"</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif; font-size: small;"><b>Across the Nagold River from the center of town is the Palais Vischer (above). <br />It was built by the </b><b>Director of Public Works of the ducal court in Stuttgart in 1791. <br />It was Calw's municipal museum until recently. </b><b>The original interior has been preserved <br />until today. Martin Vischer, chief administrator of the timber trade, had the palace built.</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Another photo taken from the train "station" on the roof of the parking structure. Clearly, this is a town that does a poor job of enticing passers-by on the train to stop and have a look since the many interesting things wroth seeing are not very obvious in this panorama. </b></span></td></tr>
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<b><u>How to get to Calw:</u></b> Unless travelling by car, or hiking along the river from Bad Liebenzell or somewhere else, the fastest way to <b>Calw</b> is via train. Actually, it is the same train that stops in Hirsau. The stop is just across the River Nagold from the the center of town itself. Funny thing is the train stop itself. The tracks run high along the side of the river on the hill. A multi-storied parking structure is built against that hill and part of the roof-level parking area constitutes the platform for the trains. Oh, and before I forget, if you do not have a return ticket, the <b>ticket machines are on the ground floor</b>, not the on the platform where they would make more sense. Do go up without your ticket. As this is in the Black Forest, and as the photos show, it is all wooded and very beautiful. It is also possible to walk from Hirsau to Calw along the Nagold. It is a long, but nice walk.</div>
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<b>Via <u>train</u> from Stuttgart</b>, you will need to check online at <a href="http://www.bahn.de/">www.bahn.de</a> for train times. I would <u>strongly</u> recommend looking for the connections that take you via <b>Pforzheim Hauptbahnhof</b> (train station), where you can change to a local line that takes you directly to <b>Calw</b>. It is a nice ride through the Black Forest, and the total time is less than 90 minutes. </div>
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<b>Via car from anywhere in Germany </b>(or the entire world, for that matter) use your navigator because I don't have a car and you could be coming from anywhere. The least I can do here though is to tell you the "navi" info:</div>
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State: <b>Baden-Württemberg</b></div>
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City: <b>Calw</b></div>
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Postal code: <b>75365</b></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-72713940459716276502014-08-24T22:53:00.002+02:002015-05-15T01:15:09.141+02:00Hirsau, historic religious treasure in the Black Forest. Former abbey and ducal hunting lodge<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Aurelius Church, consecrated in 1071</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Hirsau</b> was not on my itinerary. I had planned to take the train from Stuttgart by way of Pforzheim to visit Calw, the birthplace of Hermann Hesse, walk around, take some photos and then come on back home to Bad Cannstatt all in the same day. As it turned out, <b>Hirsau</b> was the best part of my day. Calw was interesting in its own way, cradled snugly into the low foothills of the Black Forest on its eastern side, and it probably deserved more time than I felt like giving it, but I saw the ruins of <b>Hirsau</b> from the train window as it made its way to Calw, and all I could think of while there was to make sure I left enough time to stop by <b>Hirsau</b> on the way back. So I hurried up in Calw, promised to come again to see it in more depth (it is indeed worth the trip), and made my way back to Hirsau.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Note the deer, or <i>Hirsch</i>, in the <i>Wappen</i><br />(coat of arms) of Hirsau</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">People do in fact live in the historical houses around the former monastery grounds, but over all it felt more like a ghost town which leaves any history lover to the devices of his or her own imagination. The summer season had not fully set in at the time of my visit, so there was hardly anyone else wandering around there. It also didn't hurt that it was a week day.</span> </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Church of St. Aurelius, built almost 1,000 years ago. It was spared the fires that consumed the Monastery of Hirsau just across the Nagold River there.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">So what's so special about this place? I had certainly never studied anything about <b>Hirsau Abbey</b>, or<b> St. Aurelius</b> for that matter, in my German history courses at university. And there are definitely many places throughout this country which are older and also boast their own rich histories. The answer? A lot, really: besides dating back to possibly around 830, having ruins through which to wander today, telling its own significant story, and simply providing a lovely place in the beautiful Black Forest to wander and photograph, it was once an especially important Benedictine abbey, destroyed by the French in 1692 during the Nine-Years' War (as was the village where I presently live) and never rebuilt. But I invite you to keep reading here, and I'll tell you what I learned as I meandered about, read the plaques and allowed my imagination the freedom to be colorful while envisaging monastic and medieval life 1,000 years ago.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Nagold River, which begins in the northern Black Forest at Urnagold and </span></b><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b>joins the </b><b>Enz River in Pforzheim.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Hirsau Abbey</b> (also referred to in history as Hirs<u>ch</u>au Abbey) is located approximately three kilometers north of Calw in the northern Black Forest, a little over 22 miles (35 km) west of Stuttgart, the state capital. It sits directly on the Nagold River (pictured above). The bridge that straddles the Nagold there dates back to Carolingian times (<i>see below</i>). The first church of St. Aurelius was founded there in 830 by Count Adelbert of Calw. It was established in order to house and honor relics of the Armenian saint St. Aurelius, which the count's son, a bishop, brought from Rome. Once the monastery itself was completed, a small group of 16 monks from Fulda, in what is today Hessen came to take up residence there.</span></span> </div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Now, I got a little confused while trying to figure out the two different churches and monastic communities I was reading about. <b>Hirsau Monastery</b> (or Abbey) contained the <b>Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul</b>. St. Aurelius Abbey was centered around the <b>Church of St. Aurelius</b>, which housed the Aurelius relics. The first St. Aurelius church was consecrated in the first half of the 9th century. Archeologists have found evidence of another church or churches in this immediate that date back even earlier. The first church of St. Aurelius was partially destroyed and rebuilt in the Romanesque style. This second church was consecrated in 1071. Only 20 years later, however, did the "newer" <b>Hirsau</b> community spring from its St. Aurelius origins, and the community moved across the little river into the larger monastic complex which was now to be known as <b>Hirsau</b>. This is explained further as you read on.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Hirsau Abbey ruins nestled in the Black Forest</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Hirsau Abbey </b>soon began to flourish. In time, one of the largest monastery edifices constructed in the southwest Germany was built there: the <b>Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul </b>was immense. It was consecrated in 1091and was a Romanesque structure with three naves. It is indeed a great loss that this original structure was completely destroyed, as it was the model on which so many other German Benedictine monasteries were built; monasteries which were also to follow the Cluniac Reform (more on this further down) that <b>Hirsau</b> Abbey had introduced into the German lands under the Abbot William between 1071 and 1091. However the Church of St. Aurelius, the patron saint in whose name the monastery was established in the first place, still stands (<i>see first two photographs above</i>). (It must be noted, however, that what is seen today of that little church was renovated after a partial destruction in 1584, so not all of it is original. The fact that it had been used as a barn at some later part of its history probably helped to save it from complete ruin. It is restored and used for church services today. (<i>Photo below)</i></span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Interior of St. Aurelius today</span></b></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">A variety of beautiful window </span></b><br />
<b><b><span style="font-size: small;">frames still remain 400 years </span></b></b><br />
<span style="font-size: small;"><b><b>following </b></b><b><b>their destruction</b></b></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Renaissance-styled <i>Jagdschloß</i> of the Dukes of Württemberg</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In 1092, the successor to Abbot William, who had died the year before, left the Aurelius Monastery and moved his monks the short distance across the river to the newly finished Sts. Peter and Paul Basilica, leaving the older monastery complex as a subordinate priory (<i>Ref: Calw Tourist Office</i>). The ruins of the Sts. Peter and Paul monastery area is where I spent most of my time for these photographs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Let's look a little bit into the Cluniac (also Clunic) Reform that I mentioned above because this is what really put <b>Hirsau</b> Abbey on the map of history. It was initiated in Cluny, France in the 11th century as a result of various problems endemic to the monastic orders of the day. Due to a variety of reasons such as war, local politics, plague, etc., monasteries at this time had allowed themselves to become more subject to local lords and princes than to the pope or even their own founding principles of solitude: refraining from being an integral part of worldly matters and living. In many cases, the land on which monasteries sat belonged to a secular lord. This often caused issues when the monks wanted to select their new abbots. The land-owning lords felt it their right to interfere in the process if it served their own needs thus taking away the autonomy the monastery itself needed in order to function outside of the daily events of the world. Not being a part of the world was exactly what monastic life was intended and secular interference diminished this fundamental monastic purpose. In time, many religious orders became less rigorous in true monastic living and customs and became more involved in the politics of the day in order to survive – again, something completely counter to their reason for existing in the first place. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><i><b>Two photographs below </b></i>of the main gate to the former Ducal <i>Jagdschloß</i>, or Hunting Lodge/Castle. This also served as a bell tower. Bells have been restored to the tower and chime the hours beautifully throughout the day even now. This has been restored and a bit altered since its destruction by fire in 1692.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In 910, Duke William the Pious of Aquitaine enabled the Monastery of Cluny (of the Benedictine Order) to return to true monastic living. Due to his donation, the monastery became completely autonomous, owing allegiance to none other than the pope himself. They could once again focus heavily on what monks had originally set out to do several hundred years before, i.e., prayer, enhancing the beauty and solemnity of the Holy Rites, the singing of the Psalms, and celebrating Holy Mass, etc. It was, if you will, a Renaissance of the monasteries. Many other Benedictine monasteries throughout central Europe began to follow this renewal of monastic living. You can read more here about the </span><a href="http://www.vatican.va/holy_father/benedict_xvi/audiences/2009/documents/hf_ben-xvi_aud_20091111_en.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Cluniac Reform</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">. But, where does <b>Hirsau</b> come into the picture?</span> </div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">The Chapel of Our Lady (Marienkirche), which is just outside of the ruined cloister, is still in use today.</span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">When the Abbot William of <b>Hirsau</b> (not to be confused with Duke William) learned of the Abbey of Cluny and what was going on there, he sent some of his own monks to find out more. When they returned, he too began the process of returning monastery life to what it was originally ordained to be. The reforms had the blessings of the pope in Rome. Less secular interference and influence returned monastic focus to the Vatican See. The Church would become stronger at the local level. Abbot William sent monks out to share this with other monasteries in what is today Germany. As the monastery at <b>Hirsau</b> was the first of these German orders to take up these reforms, it was the "<b>Hirsau Reforms</b>" that was to become known throughout Germany, and it was this name that was often used instead of the "Cluniac Reforms" in this part of Europe.</span> </div>
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<i><span style="font-size: large;">Note: I must add that in my humble opinion, the reference to "Hirsau" rather than "Cluniac" Reforms was not meant to deflect any credit away from Cluny. As word spread in the medieval days, and the ones who brought the reforms to the other Germanic monasteries were initially from Hirsau, I would imagine that it was simply a matter of associating the news with the Germanic brothers from Hirsau who brought it.</span> </i></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">View of the single remaining tower </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;">of the Basilica ruins</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Here, the Bell Tower and the ruins of the ducal hunting residence can be seen outside of the cloister grounds. Almost all of the window and door arches remain in the cloister wall. Although there is no longer an active monastery here, the serenity of the grounds can be quite meditative if you are lucky to be here on as quiet and empty a day as I was.</span> </span> </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small; text-align: justify;">The ducal hunting-lodge ruins are in the background </span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">In the following two photographs, the ruins of what must have been an imposing edifice in its day: the Church of Sts Peter and Paul. The architectural supports pictured here would have supported the outer walls of the rounded altar area of the church. The <i>Marienkirche</i>, or Chapel of Our Lady, can be seen in the background of the second photograph below. This church was restored for use in the latter half of the 19th century. While I was walking the grounds, I could hear lovely music coming from the Marienkirche. It is a two-storied church. Unfortunately, I was not able to enter it, and as of this writing, I have yet to find any photos online of the interior, though I am sure they exist. Just another reason to return to <b>Hirsau</b>.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Note the ruins to the left in the photo. These supported the walls of a side chapel just off the left side </span></b><b><span style="font-size: small;">of what was the main altar of the huge church.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">View of the side-altar chapel ruins from the other side, with the <i>Marienkirche</i> in the background</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Marienkirche from the side of the <i>Jagdschloß</i><br />Two floors, two chapels</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Remnant walls of the cloister. The door led to the Summer Refectory, where the monks ate.<br />The monks dormitory would have been on the floor above this.</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">For an example of a monastery that has survived almost completely intact over the past 300-400 years, see my earlier blog, </span><a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2013/06/bebenhausen-where-it-all-ended.html"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Bebenhausen, Where it all Ended</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">. Scroll down on this page and you will see photos of Bebenhausen which are no doubt quite similar to how the cloister at Hirsau very likely looked once upon a time.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Fortunately, this one of the two Basilica towers survived the blaze. Note the relief </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;">with the monk in the middle looking out into the distance. After the destruction </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;">of the monastery in 1692, this tower was used as a prison!</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The cross marks where the altar stood in the Basilica</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x1D-iwzZ2_c/VAIvqUxjw3I/AAAAAAAAB8Y/z8jQ6MoL2_Q/s1600/2005-02-01%2B00.24.56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-x1D-iwzZ2_c/VAIvqUxjw3I/AAAAAAAAB8Y/z8jQ6MoL2_Q/s1600/2005-02-01%2B00.24.56.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small; text-align: left;"><b>A view of the refectory kitchen ruins</b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">A view out of the bell tower of the main gate</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><u>Hirsau</u> today, beneath the walls of the former monastery ruins, nestled in the beautiful Black Forest.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--1IH9ruQKSY/VAIubDp18WI/AAAAAAAAB7A/jxiZ_HgZa50/s1600/2005-01-31%2B23.29.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--1IH9ruQKSY/VAIubDp18WI/AAAAAAAAB7A/jxiZ_HgZa50/s1600/2005-01-31%2B23.29.35.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Another view of the cloister ruins of Hirsau Abbey</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">These two arches will lead you into the monastery grounds. There are other accesses, but this is how I got through.</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The other side of the arches shown in the photograph above. Some of the other buildings which </b><b>have </b><b>popped up on the grounds over the years since the monastery was destroyed in 1692 can be seen here. Some of them are replicas of buildings destroyed in the fire;</b><b> others may be original. </b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>To the left are the ruins of the former <i>Jagdschloß</i>, or hunting castle, of the Dukes of Württemberg with the bell tower in the foreground. The Renaissance castle was built on what had once been an abbot's residence. At the time the ducal residence was built, the monastery </b><b>was no longer Catholic, as the Reformation had already taken place by this time and the territory was </b><b>now Lutheran. The ruins to the immediate left of the tower are of the former</b></span><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;">priory kitchen.</span></b></td></tr>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wKQhrkjCdW8/U-EykU-9gsI/AAAAAAAABvs/0XsPxqGCqds/s1600/CIMG0979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-wKQhrkjCdW8/U-EykU-9gsI/AAAAAAAABvs/0XsPxqGCqds/s1600/CIMG0979.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bsUkxDRNiMFzGItLogpewd_ysRM9arHtWH0n6WAfJFJ0SjrreBbymi6lvttpkVpGGRbF5KFQBjOh2ELXiiD_K7dl-BnwsISZSnaL6o0fUYipq1RgdvNQUuoI8vqc1cul7qrMXR0xENI/s1600/CIMG0972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8bsUkxDRNiMFzGItLogpewd_ysRM9arHtWH0n6WAfJFJ0SjrreBbymi6lvttpkVpGGRbF5KFQBjOh2ELXiiD_K7dl-BnwsISZSnaL6o0fUYipq1RgdvNQUuoI8vqc1cul7qrMXR0xENI/s1600/CIMG0972.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Following the Protestant Reformation in 1532 and during the reign of Duke Ulrich of Württemberg, Hirsau became secularized. It was during this time, between 1586 and 1592 that Duke Ulrich built his hunting residence. Lutheran abbots were appointed to lead monastic life. In the mid-1600s, it became Catholic again, but only a few years later following the Treaty of Westphalia, <b>Hirsau</b> Abbey became Lutheran once again and remained so until the destruction of the abbey in 1692 at the hands of the French troops under the command of General Mélac during the War of the Palatinate Succession (also known as the Nine Years' War). It is indeed a sad ending to a once great and leading monastery. It has never been rebuilt.</span></div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ASn6HrJvjqU/VAIuE3g58_I/AAAAAAAAB6o/wlauTBwKj3Q/s1600/2005-01-31%2B23.27.32.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ASn6HrJvjqU/VAIuE3g58_I/AAAAAAAAB6o/wlauTBwKj3Q/s1600/2005-01-31%2B23.27.32.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">A closer view of the ruins of the <i>Jagdschloß</i> of the Dukes of Württemberg</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>How to get to Hirsau:</u></b> Unless traveling by car, one arrives at <b>Hirsau</b> train stop on the small line that actually dead-ends in Calw, which is the next stop due south after <b>Hirsau</b>. The stop is just across the River Nagold from the monastery-hunting lodge area; the walk onto the monastery grounds is only a matter of minutes. As this is in the Black Forest, and as the photos show, it is all wooded and very beautiful. It is also possible to walk from Hirsau to Calw along the Nagold. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Via <u>train</u> from Stuttgart</b>, you will need to check online at </span></span><a href="http://www.bahn.de/"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">www.bahn.de</span></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;"> for train times. I would <u>strongly</u> recommend looking for the connections that take you via <b>Pforzheim Hauptbahnhof</b> (train station), where you can change to a local line that takes you directly to <b>Hirsau</b>. It's a nice ride through the Black Forest, and the total time is less than 90 minutes.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Hirsau train station</b> </span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">There are other train routes which require a connection via bus, which aren't all bad, but it might take a bit longer. The <b>S6</b> to <b>Weil der Stadt </b>leaves Stuttgart station (underground) as well, but you will need to change to the <b>670</b> bus at Weil der Stadt to get to the monastery. However, depending on which train or bus you use to get to Weil der Stadt, you might have to make another transfer at Calw.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Via car from anywhere in Germany </b>(or the entire world, for that matter) use your navigator because I don't have a car and you could be coming from anywhere. The least I can do here though is to tell you the "navi" info:</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">State: <b>Baden-Württemberg</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Town: <b>Hirsau </b>(or even "<b>Calw</b>", since it technically belongs to the Calw municipality)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Buckle your seatbelts because it's gonna be a historically beautiful ride!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: large;">Enjoy!</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-45863900340515895852014-08-03T23:17:00.000+02:002014-08-03T23:20:35.218+02:00Late Afternoon in Markgröningen, where barefoot shepherds run<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Markgröningen's main square in the late afternoon sun.</b></td></tr>
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My visit to <b>Markgröningen</b> was a short one as I was there on business, so I regret that I don't have a lot of photos or stories to tell you about this very interesting town. Still, I wanted to post this because it is definitely an interesting place with a very unique tradition - the <b style="font-style: italic;">Schäferlauf.</b> I'll tell you more about that further down. First, a little something about this historically unique town.</div>
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Evidently, <b>Markgröningen</b> was originally known as Gruoninga when it was first mentioned in a deed in 779. This deed was a gift (from whom, I don't know) to the Monastery of Fulda, which is today the seat of the Archbishop of Fulda, yet another beautiful city worth visiting which is located in the center of the German state of Hessen. Later, <i>Mark</i> (meaning: border region, particularly of an area of defence) was added to the name to denote its location at the time between the Alemannisch <i>(today, roughly the area of western Baden-Württemberg running along the French border down into the Basel area of Switzerland)</i> and Frankish (<i>basically in what is today northern Bavaria, parts of Baden-Württemberg, Hessen and also Thuringia)</i> territories.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Close-up of the Markgröningen Rathaus on the main square<br /><br />(I can assure you that the wood is solid. My own home is of the same style and age. It is so old, it almost<br />seems to be petrified. Drive a nail in and you will never get it out again. It's as solid as rock!)</b></td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"><b>Markgröningen</b> is located 15 km northwest of Stuttgart, but it is not accessible by train. Buses run there regularly from Asperg. The trip from Stuttgart should be about 35 minutes, so it still makes quite a reasonable excursion. If for no other reason, it is worth the trip for its <i>Fachwerkhäuse</i>r (half-timbered houses). So, if you are in the area, make a point to stop by.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>A view through the main square toward the Bartholomäuskirche</b> </td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">For those of you interested in German history, this town was designated a </span><i style="text-align: justify;"><a href="http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/283884/imperial-city">Free Imperial City</a></i><span style="text-align: justify;"> as far back as 1229. This meant that the city was responsible directly and only to the Holy Roman Emperor himself, and not to the local lord no matter how high his or her rank. And yes, this was a good thing. <b>Markgröningen</b> did not last long as a Free Imperial City, however, as the Swabian House of Württemberg acquired it in the 1300s. It was designated a seat of government at different times between then and the second half of the 15th century. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Marktplatz<br /><br />Just look at that house. Doesn't it look a bit top heavy? Looks like you can just </b><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlesIKZXUYAdG-4bXxvvEJN3c_xPGq0IIkFqX43yYZKhN5-4PvVwjwK3L6T4MzCyvIBv66GfGbMbXET3vQhy0gqD5hzvvfkRSHwjXrRlT-nIRLrQBHckm2VGL3R9S5sU-sEnJC7Zmsnc/s1600/CIMG7125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSlesIKZXUYAdG-4bXxvvEJN3c_xPGq0IIkFqX43yYZKhN5-4PvVwjwK3L6T4MzCyvIBv66GfGbMbXET3vQhy0gqD5hzvvfkRSHwjXrRlT-nIRLrQBHckm2VGL3R9S5sU-sEnJC7Zmsnc/s1600/CIMG7125.JPG" height="640" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Following the Reformation, <b>Markgröningen</b> became Protestant. Its </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Spital</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> (can be a hospital for the poor or a wayside shelter for pilgrims; the word is also used for "hospital" in Switzerland and Austria today), which was established in 1297 and run by the Catholic Order of the Holy Spirit, was taken over by the city in 1552 and has been administered by it ever since. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b>Another view of the Rathaus<br /><br />Note the angle of the clock and bell tower at the top. Beneath it, you might be able to make out<br />the eagle on the <i>Wappen</i> (coat-of-arms) on the right-hand side. This eagle distinguished the city as<br />a <i>Free Imperial City.</i> See below for other photos.</b></td></tr>
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Okay, so I said earlier that I would tell you a little about the shephards' run, or <i>Schäferlauf.</i> I do wish I had photos to show you, but I don't. You will have to see it for yourself and make your own photos. Fortunately, if you are in the area, you still have time to get there because it will be held August 22 - 25 this year. As of this posting, that is only a few weeks away!</div>
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So what is it? It is a barefoot race through what is called a <i>Stoppelfeld </i>(field of stubble). Sounds like it would hurt. Anyway, young girls race each other for the coveted crown and title of queen, and the boys do the same for the king's crown. And what else do each of their majesties receive? Well, something that all kings and queens covet, of course. A sheep! </div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">This has been going on in <b>Markgröningen</b> since about 1445. (They ought to be pretty good at it by now, I would think.) The event has turned into a three-day festival with a period costume-filled parade, church service and demonstrations of the various tasks of shepherds. Yes, there are even sheep. Surprised? Although I have yet to see the actual event, I have only heard that it is indeed worth meandering through and experiencing.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">I do wish I had more photos to show you. Hopefully the few I have here will at least whet your appetite enough to at least do some research on</span><span style="text-align: justify;"> your own v</span><span style="text-align: justify;">ia the internet. Don't just look at </span><i style="text-align: justify;">Wikipedia.</i><span style="text-align: justify;"> Go to other sites, or click here and find more online photos of the actual </span><i style="text-align: justify;"><a href="https://www.google.de/search?q=images+of+sch%C3%A4ferlauf&client=safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=t5reU9OxA4Sm0AWC34G4CA&ved=0CB8QsAQ&biw=1269&bih=587">Schäferlauf</a></i><span style="text-align: justify;"> on Google. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Der obere Torturm</i><br />(Upper gate tower)<br /><br />This is the last remaining of the four gates into the city of Markgröningen when a wall surrounded it.<br />The wall was dismantled before 1850.</b></td></tr>
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<b><u>How to get to Markgröningen by public transportation</u>:</b> From <b>Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof </b>(main station), take the <b>S5</b> (underground platform) to <b>Asperg </b>(another interesting town with a castle above it). This takes about 18-20 minutes. From there, go out to the front of the station and catch the <b>no. 532 bus</b> in the direction of "<b>Mühlstraße Oberriexingen</b>". Ask the driver to tell you when you have arrived because the old town is not where he drops you off. I don't believe any buses go through that part of town, but it is merely a couple of blocks away. Remember where you got off, because you will need to come back to that spot to return to Stuttgart. Altogether, the trip from Stuttgart should take you about <b>35 minutes</b>.</div>
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<b><u>By car?</u></b> Hmm, I don't travel that way, so I can't tell you, but I would assume streets and perhaps a highway or two might be a good idea ;-). Otherwise, I think most of you who drive have a navigator, so enter "<b>Markgröningen</b>" or "<b>Markgroeningen</b>", and any of the options that come up will get you there. </div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0Markgröningen, Germany48.903478 9.0865389000000548.8199985 8.92517740000005 48.9869575 9.24790040000005tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-44273135437755944342014-01-27T13:21:00.002+01:002014-02-14T15:37:17.046+01:00BESIGHEIM: another surprise find<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">Besigheim</i>, located in the southern German state of Baden-Württemberg, is a town located at the confluence of the Neckar and Enz rivers. The town is surrounded on three sides by water. The earliest written documentation of <b><i>Besigheim</i></b> was dates back to 1153. Its ownership passed through various hands and was ravaged by war numerous times over the centuries. Most of the military occupations were imposed by the French armies, the last of which was during the Napoleonic Wars, which ended in 1815. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The old town once boasted a castle, but it was destroyed over a period of more than 50 years following Louis XIV's Nine Years' War (War of the Palatine Succession). A couple of towers still remain in the old town amidst a number of other beautiful, historical buildings. I found some of the ancient stone manors found in the town calling me to photograph them. I gladly obliged.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Not only was <i style="font-weight: bold;">Besigheim</i> owned by several different German princes, it was for a time owned by the Hapsburgs as well. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The colorful Fachwerk (half-timbered) buildings are a favorite of mine, which can be found all over Germany. The<i> </i>old <i>Rathaus</i> (Town Hall) above shows an example of this.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">It was nice that my first visit there was a sunny autumn day. The creeper making its way all over a number of walls could not have been more splendidly bedecked in glorious shades of reds, yellows and more. The sun and the blue skies made for marvelous backdrops to photographs.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Schoch Tower, built somewhere around 1200, and the old stone house above are principal landmarks in the upper part of the Old Town.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of several very old homes located in the upper Old Town. Note the size of the windows and simple carving around the doorway.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">Besigheim</i> is definitely worth the visit. It can be reached from Stuttgart Hauptbahnhof (main station) via the R4 line within approximately 25 minutes. Trains leave every 30 minutes on the quarter hour.</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-88114910608887665062013-09-26T00:17:00.002+02:002013-09-26T00:17:58.684+02:00Bietigheim-Bissingen: the "Double B" Town<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Located approximately 20 kilometers north of Baden-Württemberg's state capital of Stuttgart, the city of <b>Bietigheim-Bissingen</b> boasts some beautiful, historical structures that date far back into the Middle Ages. The city's only remaining gate-tower was built in the 14th century, and together with a number of other marvelous structures, be they half-timbered or stone, visitors in search of history will be quite pleased by their findings. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Like most German cities with similar historical offers, the city of <b>Bietigheim-Bissingen</b> is perfectly suited for pedestrians. The well-cared-for buildings and interesting places to visit make for a nice walk through the streets and an enjoyable visit.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Two people leaving as I make my way in through the 14th century <br />gate of Beitigheim-Bissingen.</b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Above the highest arch in the gate, one can see the little golden shield with </b></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>three antlers, </b></span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">one atop the other. This shield is the emblem of the</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i><b>Above:</b></i> One of my favorite things to be found throughout so much of central and northern Europe is pictured above: the beautiful and intricate trade shingles protruding out from over doors or windows of stores and other businesses announcing symbolically what kind of business is going on below. In the days when most could neither read nor write, these signs bore simple emblems of the trade going on in the businesses over which they hung, so the average shopper could easily find what kind of shop or business they were looking for. Fortunately, they are still found all throughout these parts of Europe - some of which can be almost comical-looking today. Clearly this shingle demonstrates something to do with ale of some sort.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">T<b>he main street of Beitigheim-Bissingen is a pedestrian zone.<br />The beautiful medieval <i>Fachwerk</i> (half-timbered) structures </b></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">This splendid bridge was constructed between 1851 and 1853 by Karl Etzel. Known as the <b>Bietigheim Enz-Valley Viaduct</b>, it carries one of the train lines between Stuttgart and Bruchsal over the Enz River and Valley. The view from the train is quite extensive. It was damaged in the Second World War, but well restored. If you should come to "B-B" via train from Stuttgart, the walk from the station, which is on the Bissingen side of the River Enz, allows for a nice walk along the river and a marvelous view of the massive viaduct-bridge as you make your way under the structure to get to the Bietigheim side. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>One of several lovely gardens one passes when making one's way along the river toward Bietigheim.</b></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The two cities of Bietigheim and Bissingen were joined into one municipality in 1975. Bietigheim, the oldest of the two, was first documented around 789. Bissingen is mentioned in 870. </span><br />
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<b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"><i>Above:</i></b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: left;"> One of the covered footbridges that crosses the narrow Metter. The River Metter is much smaller than the larger Enz. The Metter flows into the River Enz at Bietigheim, where it continues northward and joins the much larger Neckar, not terribly far away in another "B" city by the name of Besigheim. Check the next blog entry for my photos on my visit there. </span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfx0qOkpU6RlLK8PcvA9ROQwqtJoxj9m0inosE3JF6PL7D_dT2apyYzSs2-FBfORSxRkYXv-P4E8x35-SzCdtRPCVdIPcdqYUdeFXoH_TsTEq-R-PQhNmQPZGBkn6YT2CZlvhIr7DMaN0/s1600/CIMG6014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfx0qOkpU6RlLK8PcvA9ROQwqtJoxj9m0inosE3JF6PL7D_dT2apyYzSs2-FBfORSxRkYXv-P4E8x35-SzCdtRPCVdIPcdqYUdeFXoH_TsTEq-R-PQhNmQPZGBkn6YT2CZlvhIr7DMaN0/s640/CIMG6014.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b><i>Above and below:</i></b> It is my humble opinion, based on the Württemberg antlers in the upper left quadrant of the shield which the statue above the fountain is holding next to itself, that the statue is none other than Count Eberhard II of Württemberg. He purchased part of the then neighboring community of Bissingen in the 1339, but later gave Bietigheim city status in 1364. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Many years later, the powerful Württemberg family was to include these two locations within their growing duchy of Württemberg, which became a kingdom at the grace of Napoleon I at the beginning of the 19th century. See <a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2013/06/bebenhausen-where-it-all-ended.html">Bebenhausen: where it all ended</a>.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><i style="font-weight: bold;">Below:</i> The old <i>Rathaus</i>, or town hall, of Bietigheim was built in 1507. Unfortunately the sun was directly above the building when I took the photo. For the life of me I could not find an angle get a clearer shot. The colors are not exact due to my not having a filter with me. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This city is filled with so many beautiful buildings of the <i>Fachwerk</i>, half-timbered, style. I regret that I do not have but so many photographs of them all to show you. Probably, the most famous of the structures here is the Hornmoldhaus, which was built in 1535/36. It is one of the best of its type in all of southern Germany. I hope the photos that I do have here will at least whet your appetite to visit this very interesting city, with its many offers and attractions.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Note the beautiful half-timbered (<i>Fachwerk</i>) work and window settings in this house. </span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The <i>Schloß</i>, or castle, built in 1546 has been renovated and is today the home of a very good music school.</span></div>
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<i style="font-weight: bold;">How to get there:</i> </div>
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<b>From Stuttgart </b>take the S-5 from the main train station (Hauptbahnhof). The S-5 normally leaves from underground at the station. As stated above, the city is only about 20 kilometers north of Stuttgart.</div>
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<b>From Karlsruhe</b>, take the S-5 either directly to<b> Bietigheim-Bissingen </b>or the one that passes through there on the way to Stuttgart.</div>
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Whether from Stuttgart or Karlsruhe, <b>Bietigheim-Bissingen</b> is easily a nice day trip.</div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-17874079892023611462013-09-10T22:50:00.000+02:002015-05-15T01:15:24.738+02:00Well, if you're going to be a fool, at least be a colorful one! Going back to Narrenfest 2009 in Bad Cannstatt<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<b><span style="color: blue; font-family: Helvetica Neue, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><i>Festival of Fools</i></span></b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">One of my favorite memories of living in Bad Cannstatt came about on a sunny Sunday morning a few years ago, which turned into a chilly afternoon surrounded by a bunch, no - a mob, of fools. And I mean legitimate fools. It was <b>Narrenfest</b> - a festival of fools who spent part of the year practicing to be fools, and being proud of being fools in a celebration of fools which has lasted for hundreds of years! All sounds a tad foolish, doesn't it? </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I had </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">started out on a late morning stroll down from above the vineyards where I was living at the time. It was a January morning and I noticed that people were starting to line the streets leading to the Old Town. I figured I would just stand there with them until whatever it was that was going to pass by made its way by me for my inspection. I had no idea what to expect, but as I usually never go out without a camera or smartphone, I was ready.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Twins separated at birth</i></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I was first in line on the street. I stood my ground for what turned out to be the most exciting parade filled with the largest assortment of masks and ancient costumes I had ever seen anywhere in the world - and I have been in many countries on several continents. More than a dozen different countries were participating in this time-honored event and it was a photographer's paradise. I ended up being swept along with it right into the middle of the Old Town until I was standing directly in front of the former Bad Cannstatt Rathaus with thousands of other people who had come from many parts of Europe to take part or watch. I was there for hours just clicking away, praying the batteries would hold out on my camera. 480 shots later, well, I guess they did their part.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Narrenfest</b> is nothing new. The celebration, or festival thereof, has been going on forever in these parts. And it has always involved </span> <b style="font-size: x-large;"><span style="color: red;">C</span><span style="color: #38761d;">O</span><span style="color: #bf9000;">L</span><span style="color: #0b5394;">O</span><span style="color: magenta;">R</span>!</b></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Now have a look at these young lovelies. Tell me these aren't the dreams of all bachelor party celebrations, no? They would certainly be at the top of my list for entertainment! (Certainly brides would prefer these ladies to be the ones poppin' out of the bachelor's cake, right?)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I cannot swear that behind these masks there are no women at all today; however, I do in fact know that the medieval <i>Zunft, </i>or<i> </i>guild<i>,</i> to <i style="background-color: yellow;">witch</i> these <i><span style="background-color: yellow;">whiches</span></i> <i>(or vice-versa)</i> belong was originally only men. After all, this dates in one form or another all the way back to Heaven knows when: medieval times or even the Dark Ages? But, clearly there are women participating in other costumes as they twirl, jump, hop, and wind their way in the long parade through the streets. Be advised: this particular international event does not take place every year. On this special occasion involved guilds and participants from many different countries. The United States even had a small contingent! The Fest of Fools does in fact take place each year in communities all over central Europe, but these usually include the local townsfolk. I happened upon this international festival by luck, and I guess it was double luck that it was also in my town of </span><b style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2013/07/bad-cannstatt-suburb-of-spas.html">Bad Cannstatt</a>.</b><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; text-align: justify;">For anyone interested in the history of festivals and pagan holidays, this is most certainly one to research. The best way to do so is to simply come here to experience it. An expensive way, for sure, but definitely worth it. Of course, one of the most famous of all such events is in the town of Rotweil (that's right, home of the famous dog), a beautifully medieval town which lies south of Stuttgart in the Lower Black Forest region of Württemberg. Their traditional event is especially known for being most accurate as regards following the traditions of the parade are concerned, but one must get up early in the morning to participate in this fantastic, annual event. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b6ctVQ9EK64/UiyDXSls-5I/AAAAAAAABcw/KLk730Zfa8k/s1600/CIMG4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b6ctVQ9EK64/UiyDXSls-5I/AAAAAAAABcw/KLk730Zfa8k/s1600/CIMG4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b6ctVQ9EK64/UiyDXSls-5I/AAAAAAAABcw/KLk730Zfa8k/s1600/CIMG4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b6ctVQ9EK64/UiyDXSls-5I/AAAAAAAABcw/KLk730Zfa8k/s1600/CIMG4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b6ctVQ9EK64/UiyDXSls-5I/AAAAAAAABcw/KLk730Zfa8k/s1600/CIMG4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-b6ctVQ9EK64/UiyDXSls-5I/AAAAAAAABcw/KLk730Zfa8k/s1600/CIMG4299.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><br /></a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Some of the massive costumes, besides being very warm, if not hot, for the wearers, can be most frightening, not only to children, but also to some more mature guests. I think I may have annoyed some of them by my constant grin from ear to ear as they passed by. I was in history heaven!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">As mentioned earlier, people came from all sorts of countries. Some of the bore their flags as they paraded, such as this pointed-nose group from Belgium on the right.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Slovenia was sighted as well at the <b>Narrenfest.</b> The young couple below were a part of that group.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The almost buffalo-like, long-haired "fools" from Eastern Europe were also particularly interesting for the crowd, as they twirled and danced with their massive, heavy head pieces. The masks themselves were of large pieces of wood, and as seen below, they begin at young ages. Not only the weight of the headdresses, but also the heavy bells tied to ropes around their waists. </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Their constant swinging and spinning made a cacophony of dull, tinny clangs that no one could miss, like a stampede of Swiss cows running to the barn for feeding time. Every few minutes, these participants had to remove their "heads" in order to down half a bottle of water or so. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The masks were so heavy on these guys, they had to hold them in place to be able to see properly through them. The ram horns adorning these headdresses were real. (Ouch!)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Well, as mentioned above, color plays a large part at <b>Narrenfest</b>. As your dear writer here is not old enough to recall how it was in the early days of these events back in medieval times, I nonetheless think that the more ancient of these costumes are probably rather authentic; but, at the same time, I guess over the past 500 years even these guilds have made changes themselves, so maybe I had better catch up, too. Let's have a look at some more of the <span style="color: blue;">c</span><span style="color: #f1c232;">o</span><span style="color: #38761d;">l</span><span style="color: red;">o</span>r<span style="color: purple;">f</span><span style="color: lime;">u</span><span style="color: #741b47;">l</span> parts of the <b>Narrenfest</b> parade here:</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Any idea how much all these bells weigh? Any idea how noisy this parade was, <br />especially when mixed with all the applause and cheers of the people?</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">This little marcher (above right) was no more than 13 years old. Each of this group carried a box of chocolates. Your chocoholic writer here followed them for quite a while in hopes that they had a giving spirit. Alas, they didn't. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">But who cares under these circumstances. I mean, look at that color - chocolate or no chocolate! It was a party. The beauty of this is that these happy and colorful events have descended down through the centuries from just after the Dark Ages - and no doubt there were similar festivals during and before! The Church was all-powerful in every aspect of life at this time. The control </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">that it had over citizens throughout Europe </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">was also practiced through the threat of loss of salvation. It was so easy to be labeled a heretic, and this simply wasn't advantageous to one's livelihood, let alone one's life span! This opportunity to dress up and hide behind a mask to basically let loose before the Lenten season was a time to make satire about the religious and secular powers that existed at the time. The Catholic Church was not particularly comfortable with it all, since even priests were known to participate in the revelry. Stories certainly exist of leading members of the hierarchy in Rome warning their celebratory brethren not to be so involved in these events.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">It was nearly impossible to catch these Bavarian participants when <br />they weren't twirling or slapping their thighs and kicking. Hence, blurry shot.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">There were a lot of dizzy people at the end of the day.<br />At least, I thought there would have been. <br />Heaven knows I sure got dizzy watching!</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">So here you go: more masks and costumes. I cannot leave this page without putting more of these simply astounding masks and costumes on show for your perusal</span>:</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Something about these ladies(?) intrigued me.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">And man, could they play!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Erecting the festival pole in front of the <i>Rathaus</i> (Town Hall)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">I am not sure, but I think these ladies came down from the Black Forest in Baden.</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">There are several names for this time of year and the event. <i><b>Narrenfest</b></i> is directly related to <b><i>Mardi Gras</i></b> in New Orleans and </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Fasching</b></i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> in the Rhineland of Germany, not to mention other pre-Lenten events. It his traditionally held on </span><i style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><b>Rosenmontag</b></i><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">, otherwise known as "Shrovetide", which is before Shrove Tuesday, amongst several other ancient names. This is the Monday directly before Ash Wednesday.</span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-21231337295748890182013-07-09T23:34:00.001+02:002017-12-10T22:06:19.273+01:00Bad Cannstatt - a suburb of spas<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Bad Cannstatt</span><span style="font-weight: normal;"> boasts a very long history dating all the way back to 98 A.D., when the Romans founded it as <i>Canstat ad Neccarum</i>, or Cannstatt on the Neckar. It was one the largest of the Roman settlements in southern Germany in what is today the Federal State of Baden-Württemberg. Today it is an integral part of, and the largest and oldest district in, Stuttgart, the modern-day capital of the state. </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Old Town of Bad Cannstatt's</span></b></i><i><b><span style="font-size: small;"> church tower on a late summer afternoon.</span></b></i><br />
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<span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">I lived in Bad Cannstatt for almost five years before moving over to Karlsruhe. The photos I have here depict the historical parts of the town (now suburb) which I found most interesting. To be very honest, the Old Town area of Bad Cannstatt, which is situated directly on a bend in the Neckar River, could use a very good sprucing up. Except for several very good restaurants, the Old Town needs a major facelift which could, in my opinion, help to create a much more marketable and very attractive tourist area. Still, that does not mean you shouldn't visit! As you will see in my photographs, there is much to see. I just made a point of not including the "stuff" that I don't want you to see. And, I haven't even included all the good things here; there is still much more left for you to discover on your own!</span></span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GjUcOiUY1A0/T9ONKYmkLPI/AAAAAAAAA3U/1nvXRVTNOVM/s1600/2012-06-08+19.36.54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GjUcOiUY1A0/T9ONKYmkLPI/AAAAAAAAA3U/1nvXRVTNOVM/s640/2012-06-08+19.36.54.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Shutter-framed windows in a small courtyard near the City Church</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">There is much that does go on in this district located on the NNW fringe of the original city limits of </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">Stuttgart </span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">(</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">It was annexed to Stuttgart at the beginning of the 20th century). The </span><a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2012/05/cannstatter-wasen-stuttgart-tradition_10.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-weight: normal;">Cannstatter Wasen</a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;"> takes place along the river near the Old Town; </span><a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2012/05/rosenstein-palace-and-park-on-neckar.html" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-weight: normal;">Rosenstein Palace</a><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">, former home to Württemberg's longest reigning monarch and today Stuttgart's Natural History Museum, is situated on the hill above the river directly across from the Old Town; beautiful vineyards on the slopes above the Neckar River; and a variety of neighborhoods of various centuries which combined with the oldest standing building in the district together make a span of over 500 years of architecture. </span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjoUDuFoZEc/T9OOCbCTXmI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/8sbZubR8yCo/s1600/CIMG6160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjoUDuFoZEc/T9OOCbCTXmI/AAAAAAAAA5Y/8sbZubR8yCo/s640/CIMG6160.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The main street which runs past the Rathaus in the background.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">If you should ever visit, do not allow the local transportation hub of Wilhelmsplatz to cause you to turn around and leave. There is no other way to describe it: it's ugly. But the Old Town is meters away and from there, anyone who is willing to explore all the back streets and to even take the time to bike or hike along the river paths in the direction of Hofen, you will not be disappointed. The vineyards and places to taste wine when in season are most definitely worth it. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The Neckar as it approaches the small town of Hofen, located on the edge of Bad Cannstatt</b><br /><b>Vineyards line much of the river.</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">Tourist boats are moored on the river's banks below the Old Town and an afternoon sailing up the Neckar towards Ludwigsburg on one of them would most definitely be an enjoyment. </span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ifYa9a4wGo/UdxrHKPOSOI/AAAAAAAABRs/wGzcNgh2GXs/s1600/CIMG3263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ifYa9a4wGo/UdxrHKPOSOI/AAAAAAAABRs/wGzcNgh2GXs/s640/CIMG3263.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Tour boats docked beneath Schloß Rosenstein direct across for the Old Town in Bad Cannstatt</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">It would be wrong of me to forget to explain why Bad Cannstatt is a <i>Bad</i>, or "spa" town. A town may not bear that "title" without having one. The city is well-known for its mineral-water baths and spas. The district alone has several, the oldest of which was begun in 1825 by King Wilhelm I of Württemberg. König-Karl-Straße, the street from Wilhelmsplatz on which the number 2 streetcar runs in the direction of Neureut, will take any biker or pedestrian right by the beautiful park and historical spa itself. A stone's throw away from the spa, you can easily find where in the early 1880s Gottlieb Daimler worked on the engine for the first automobile. The local police thought he was counterfeiting money!</span></div>
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<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Nn8TWPSDU4/Udxq-FkB1SI/AAAAAAAABRM/kRujgp427vI/s1600/CIMG3102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Nn8TWPSDU4/Udxq-FkB1SI/AAAAAAAABRM/kRujgp427vI/s640/CIMG3102.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The first Kursaal, or "Spa Salon", otherwise known as the "Pump Room" when first built.</b><br />Its royal patron, King Wilhelm I, is honored in front. He also lived in Bad Cannstatt, though Stuttgart was his capital.</span></i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rT8gqcq5jD0/Udxt5bCDByI/AAAAAAAABSw/ntetRRWruP4/s1600/2011-02-27+14.08.27.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rT8gqcq5jD0/Udxt5bCDByI/AAAAAAAABSw/ntetRRWruP4/s320/2011-02-27+14.08.27.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJ-62CDWprA/Udxt49YM7RI/AAAAAAAABSs/fgHqNcP-8TQ/s1600/2011-02-27+14.09.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJ-62CDWprA/Udxt49YM7RI/AAAAAAAABSs/fgHqNcP-8TQ/s320/2011-02-27+14.09.08.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">(<i>Left</i>)</span><span style="font-size: x-small; font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;"> </span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">Mr. Daimler's workshop.</span></span><i style="font-size: 13px; font-weight: bold;"> </i></span></span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">(<i>Right</i>)<i> </i></span><span style="font-weight: normal;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">The second photo </span></span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal; text-align: center;">shows what he ended up with.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rbOwkavsDF0/UdxrCeAio7I/AAAAAAAABRY/1TBJfzNM5-E/s1600/2012-02-11+17.32.02%231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rbOwkavsDF0/UdxrCeAio7I/AAAAAAAABRY/1TBJfzNM5-E/s640/2012-02-11+17.32.02%231.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The frozen Neckar River as it passes the Cannstatter Wasen, home to the Volksfest</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">The </span>Wilhelma<span style="font-weight: normal;"> warrants its own blog page, and it will indeed have one when I get around to it. The Wilhelma was the private pleasure retreat and zoo of King Wilhelm I of Württemberg, who built it in the Moorish style of the Alhambra, but named it after himself: "Wilhelm-a". Get it? Alhambra? --> Wilhelma? Right, I thought at first it was named after a lady. Ha! Oh well, despite him being pretty bad tempered to his own family, I reckon the old king had a sense of humor in an egocentric sort of way. But hey, he was the king, right? The Wilhelma is extremely popular to visit - and absolutely worth it! It is probably the most elegant zoo you will ever visit.</span></span><br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aoo6Yaaal_E/UdxrDbmzidI/AAAAAAAABRk/bfStOuqO5bs/s1600/CIMG3203.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aoo6Yaaal_E/UdxrDbmzidI/AAAAAAAABRk/bfStOuqO5bs/s640/CIMG3203.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><b style="font-weight: normal;">Above, you can see one of the beautiful terra-cotta walls surrounding the Wilhelma.</b><span style="font-weight: normal;"> </span><b style="font-weight: normal;">The zoo, situated below the 19th-century-king's favorite residence of </b><span style="font-weight: normal;">Sch</span><b style="font-weight: normal;">loß Rosenstein along the Neckar River, is open to the public and a must-see for its array of animals and the buildings that grace its extensive grounds.</b></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwEpYtnccoSFdiTPWh8PYXWrSjz_UgZxNj1ckP3qU8i4jRLjrZXBB72qZl1o14DdB99fpJPTuthJSUD1-w0K9wKdrwGHoMq6NJ-zSXSOTN-mbjiPulhDsu4er_xlmdeTiQB9uCkQxQJk/s1600/CIMG3204.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQwEpYtnccoSFdiTPWh8PYXWrSjz_UgZxNj1ckP3qU8i4jRLjrZXBB72qZl1o14DdB99fpJPTuthJSUD1-w0K9wKdrwGHoMq6NJ-zSXSOTN-mbjiPulhDsu4er_xlmdeTiQB9uCkQxQJk/s640/CIMG3204.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoOzrlnW7V8/UdxrLIdxc-I/AAAAAAAABSA/L3aIU7DRMRI/s1600/Cimg4662.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IoOzrlnW7V8/UdxrLIdxc-I/AAAAAAAABSA/L3aIU7DRMRI/s400/Cimg4662.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">View from my old neighborhood in Bad Cannstatt<br />The vineyards are just beginning to turn green<br />in the spring sunshine.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ksmx66vLdc0/UdxrKxfQ1RI/AAAAAAAABR8/tOlko7djALY/s1600/Vineyards+above+the+Neckar,+Bad+Cannstatt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ksmx66vLdc0/UdxrKxfQ1RI/AAAAAAAABR8/tOlko7djALY/s320/Vineyards+above+the+Neckar,+Bad+Cannstatt.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Same vineyard as taken from the bridge in winter</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr0fQy33lYXlTSGeIuaq2RQVkl0BIIhNwXfHqm0S3ug6yrNFzF-IFbGJJDxAqWUmuFfDNSfWyDrU8IrkPNQICcxY2kmJH1bqVWVF_G2dYFdWasNoRr2EtwxBXBYNLpKh9EsvHq3J-pdB4/s1600/CIMG3088.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr0fQy33lYXlTSGeIuaq2RQVkl0BIIhNwXfHqm0S3ug6yrNFzF-IFbGJJDxAqWUmuFfDNSfWyDrU8IrkPNQICcxY2kmJH1bqVWVF_G2dYFdWasNoRr2EtwxBXBYNLpKh9EsvHq3J-pdB4/s400/CIMG3088.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Autumn colors before the harvest.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YePxU2qh9s0/UdxtiB8tk5I/AAAAAAAABSc/I-AS_ZC6OSw/s1600/Cimg4770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YePxU2qh9s0/UdxtiB8tk5I/AAAAAAAABSc/I-AS_ZC6OSw/s640/Cimg4770.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Now you know how they cut the grass between the rows of grape vines. </b><br /><b>(You should see the driver clinging to the wheel as he drives uphill!)</b></span></i><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iG4aR31y0Es/Udx_evOv0XI/AAAAAAAABTM/dybzq2RiK3M/s1600/2012-07-08+17.30.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iG4aR31y0Es/Udx_evOv0XI/AAAAAAAABTM/dybzq2RiK3M/s640/2012-07-08+17.30.04.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>And the summer view from my hill</b><br /><b>This was without a doubt one of my most favorite views in all of Stuttgart</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3k-LpODqrZA/Udx_fOjuiFI/AAAAAAAABTQ/XtwLp_4Mw7Q/s1600/2012-07-08+17.22.55.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; font-weight: normal;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3k-LpODqrZA/Udx_fOjuiFI/AAAAAAAABTQ/XtwLp_4Mw7Q/s640/2012-07-08+17.22.55.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">Turning around in the same spot from which I took the photograph above this one, t</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal; text-align: center;">he Neckar River can be seen making it was through Bad Cannstatt. Stuttgart city is in the far</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: normal; text-align: center;"> </span><span style="font-weight: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">background </span></span></span><span style="font-weight: normal; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;">almost invisible. The Old Town of Bad Cannstatt is not visible but it sits on the left bank of the river past the</span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: x-small;"> </span></span></span><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">high white train trestle in the middle of the photo.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3i0nMGLCjsg/UdxtlWkd4SI/AAAAAAAABSk/NYizW2NOEi0/s1600/2012-02-18+13.15.43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3i0nMGLCjsg/UdxtlWkd4SI/AAAAAAAABSk/NYizW2NOEi0/s640/2012-02-18+13.15.43.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Late autumn evening along the Neckar</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-94H2PTWKvo8/T9ONpddNTGI/AAAAAAAAA4I/kLiVIjv-HxA/s1600/Bad+Cannstatt+Town+Hall.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-94H2PTWKvo8/T9ONpddNTGI/AAAAAAAAA4I/kLiVIjv-HxA/s640/Bad+Cannstatt+Town+Hall.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Rathaus and City Church in the center of Bad Cannstatt's Old Town.</b><br /><b>On market day, there is a wonderful open-air fresh-produce and flower market in the square behind the Rathaus</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IbcN4hC_VLo/T9OOHcU103I/AAAAAAAAA5o/2Xq-rOxphgo/s1600/CIMG6162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IbcN4hC_VLo/T9OOHcU103I/AAAAAAAAA5o/2Xq-rOxphgo/s640/CIMG6162.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Rathaus in the late afternoon</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FB4R9XnNoE4/T9OMqtTXg5I/AAAAAAAAA2o/TXTJTtYQSnc/s1600/2012-06-01+14.53.13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FB4R9XnNoE4/T9OMqtTXg5I/AAAAAAAAA2o/TXTJTtYQSnc/s640/2012-06-01+14.53.13.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Roof line of the houses on the Market Street before a storm</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAg5xJjhLTI/T9OMNaeViZI/AAAAAAAAA10/Q2v0MomSSlk/s1600/2012-06-01+14.32.29.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAg5xJjhLTI/T9OMNaeViZI/AAAAAAAAA10/Q2v0MomSSlk/s640/2012-06-01+14.32.29.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Side street in Bad Cannstatt. </b><b>Part of the old city wall can be seen dividing </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>the two houses. </b></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>The one on the left</b></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>was built within the wall. The one on </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>the </b></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>right </b></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>was built a bit later. </b></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>It was common for homes or other structures </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>to use the city wall </b></span></i><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>as a wall in their own building as well.</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AxDHhs4LxTk/T9OMFMJiTHI/AAAAAAAAA1s/qXT5XdK4HDY/s1600/2012-06-01+14.30.49.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-AxDHhs4LxTk/T9OMFMJiTHI/AAAAAAAAA1s/qXT5XdK4HDY/s640/2012-06-01+14.30.49.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>One of my favorite houses in Bad Cannstatt, located up against the inside of the old wall.</b><br /><b>A bit of the stonework can be seen on the far-right of the photo.</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>A late 19th century mansion located very near the Old Town. </b><br />Restoration<b> was recently finished in 2012.</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c-Y2kWH0Hqw/T9OLgu2C6wI/AAAAAAAAA00/iSU4h5oYxnA/s1600/2012-06-01+14.04.26.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-c-Y2kWH0Hqw/T9OLgu2C6wI/AAAAAAAAA00/iSU4h5oYxnA/s640/2012-06-01+14.04.26.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">I don't know if this building still serves as an inn, but the sign is still there in any case.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QykYiJvcis0/T9OLnNbwvgI/AAAAAAAAA1A/-pnb4DUck9k/s1600/2012-06-01+14.06.17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QykYiJvcis0/T9OLnNbwvgI/AAAAAAAAA1A/-pnb4DUck9k/s640/2012-06-01+14.06.17.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>One of a number of very good restaurants to be found in Bad Cannstatt.</b><br /><b>The 1618 date denoting the high-water mark of a flood from long, long </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>ago can be seen chiseled into the stonework of the building.<br />"Zickle" means "little goat" in Swabian.</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRXK47XRjbHMj3g-P-fnGIM-AmajjbPvwKJXFAh3PwVjeVJHkzak7d2USOepVfyybBhLeerHP6T9WFxI_hQ2CHjBLf7jjMHXM-EAyGS59Bkb3xStOHZMjYZJmiwTxOYwOvrKBYuTRHdk/s1600/2012-06-01+14.00.43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWRXK47XRjbHMj3g-P-fnGIM-AmajjbPvwKJXFAh3PwVjeVJHkzak7d2USOepVfyybBhLeerHP6T9WFxI_hQ2CHjBLf7jjMHXM-EAyGS59Bkb3xStOHZMjYZJmiwTxOYwOvrKBYuTRHdk/s640/2012-06-01+14.00.43.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>An example of Fachwerk, or half-timbered</b><br /><b>structures still in Bad Cannstatt.</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gzuflM4WpCE/T9OM3-QoEtI/AAAAAAAAA24/ywEZHR7yrYQ/s1600/2012-06-08+19.35.37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gzuflM4WpCE/T9OM3-QoEtI/AAAAAAAAA24/ywEZHR7yrYQ/s640/2012-06-08+19.35.37.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Technically still in the Old Town, but located outside of where the wall </b><br /><b>was and next to the river, I can only say that I just like the green </b></span></i><br />
<i><span style="font-size: small;"><b>wooden porch!</b></span></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bTT0Yu_21VM/T9ONQR9eXuI/AAAAAAAAA3c/rvlNxLdSk9Q/s1600/2012-06-08+19.38.52.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bTT0Yu_21VM/T9ONQR9eXuI/AAAAAAAAA3c/rvlNxLdSk9Q/s640/2012-06-08+19.38.52.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">City church (Stiftskirche) bell tower</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tPMxKI_DFMo/T9ONaF9YzZI/AAAAAAAAA3w/aQ8jP21iHwo/s1600/2012-06-08+19.39.34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tPMxKI_DFMo/T9ONaF9YzZI/AAAAAAAAA3w/aQ8jP21iHwo/s640/2012-06-08+19.39.34.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rCyybvnkQOw/T9OLsEESkrI/AAAAAAAAA1I/1AQ6AubMLPw/s1600/2012-06-01+14.23.19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rCyybvnkQOw/T9OLsEESkrI/AAAAAAAAA1I/1AQ6AubMLPw/s640/2012-06-01+14.23.19.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Local coffee shop - one of many</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F1vx3D48KWk/T9OLZbh_tiI/AAAAAAAAA0s/tSkvRt_JHUA/s1600/2012-06-01+14.03.47.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="510" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-F1vx3D48KWk/T9OLZbh_tiI/AAAAAAAAA0s/tSkvRt_JHUA/s640/2012-06-01+14.03.47.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Lot's of young families with children live in the Old Town </span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7WLnJs1rLQ/T9OLzPUttiI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/G_UhU2bAlwg/s1600/2012-06-01+14.28.33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P7WLnJs1rLQ/T9OLzPUttiI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/G_UhU2bAlwg/s640/2012-06-01+14.28.33.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">This is part of the oldest building in Stuttgart: the Beginen Klösterle, </span></b></i><br />
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">built </span></b></i><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">in 1463</span></b></i><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Beginen (Beguine) were an order of lay-nuns </span></b></i><br />
<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">dating back to the </span></b></i><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Middle Ages</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gmWiiY9aC9Y/T9OL-S6t2II/AAAAAAAAA1g/VZxKGrmSglw/s1600/2012-06-01+14.29.08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gmWiiY9aC9Y/T9OL-S6t2II/AAAAAAAAA1g/VZxKGrmSglw/s640/2012-06-01+14.29.08.jpg" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Today, this beautiful building, restored in 1983, is now a restaurant,<br />but the inside of the building has changed very little.<br />The chapel is still located on an upper floor.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Bk6e45V2rU/T9OL4sDao4I/AAAAAAAAA1Y/Kfjs4shFeMU/s1600/2012-06-01+14.28.46.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Bk6e45V2rU/T9OL4sDao4I/AAAAAAAAA1Y/Kfjs4shFeMU/s640/2012-06-01+14.28.46.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Note the joints and patterns of the building. Perhaps it was enlarged/widened long ago?</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span style="font-weight: normal;">Last but not least, I must say that I</span></span><span style="font-weight: normal;">, a born chocoholic, </span>would be amiss if I did not inform you<span style="font-weight: normal;">, dear reader, that the Rittersport chocolate bar was first produced in Bad Cannstatt. Today, the factory and chocolate museum are located south of Stuttgart, but Bad Cannstatt does take pride in being the home of automobiles and chocolate: unlike alcohol, two things which can go together.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif; font-size: large; font-weight: normal;">There is indeed much to see in Bad Cannstatt, so I guess I could say, "Just see it!"</span><br />
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<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jU9z4y2IuJ8/T9OOQyZ1V_I/AAAAAAAAA6I/sjgoQefNU40/s1600/Church%252C+Bad+Cannstatt.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-jU9z4y2IuJ8/T9OOQyZ1V_I/AAAAAAAAA6I/sjgoQefNU40/s640/Church%2C+Bad+Cannstatt.JPG" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Close-up of the bell tower.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-7883264147138901462013-06-29T15:51:00.000+02:002013-06-29T16:02:11.334+02:00A Night (and day) at the Opera<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<u><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-large;"><br /> Stuttgart Staatsoper</span></u></h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Großes Haus von der Staatsoper</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">101 years ago in 1912, the Royal Court Theater, <i>Königliches Hoftheater</i>, designed by Max Littmann, was opened with a performance of Richard Strauss's <i><b>Ariadne auf Naxos</b></i> before King Wilhem II and Queen Charlotte of Württemberg. </span></div>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-084SlmTuwOI/UbjqVQbRI0I/AAAAAAAABLQ/nmKfHRMXLf4/s1600/CIMG1622.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-084SlmTuwOI/UbjqVQbRI0I/AAAAAAAABLQ/nmKfHRMXLf4/s640/CIMG1622.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">When the Court Theater, today known as the State Opera, opened, it consisted of two theater houses: the opera (shown above), <i>Großes Haus</i> (Large House) and the theater, or <i>Kleines Haus</i> (Small House). The theater was completely destroyed during the bombing of Stuttgart in 1944. </span></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bb4LiSUm8RA/Ubjp79tcsaI/AAAAAAAABKQ/FWpu9pPl8gc/s1600/2012-08-20+15.40.21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="384" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Bb4LiSUm8RA/Ubjp79tcsaI/AAAAAAAABKQ/FWpu9pPl8gc/s640/2012-08-20+15.40.21.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The opera was one of only a few pre-war opera houses throughout all of Germany that actually survived destruction in the Second World War. Most everything which one sees when visiting today is just as it was at its opening in 1912. When this writer was there recently, the interior of the theater itself looked as though the royal pair had just left the room. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Today, the Stuttgart Staatsoper is home to the world-famous <a href="http://www.stuttgart-ballet.de/">Stuttgart Ballet</a>, of which the renowned </span><a href="http://www.stuttgart-ballet.de/company/john-cranko/" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">John Cranko</a><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">was not only its founder but also choreographer in the 1960s.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The larger of the two theaters, the Opera, seats 1,404 guests. The crowned royal box is still as it was during the monarchy, which ended in 1918. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">A photo of the new post-war theater, or <i>Kleines Haus</i>, is not shown here simply because the photographer refuses to waste time on it. He just can't "make peace" with this particular, umm, (What does he call it, hideous?) </span><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">structure which replaced the original beauty. <a href="http://kingdomhistory.blogspot.de/2012/07/near-berliner-platz-tram-stop.html">Berliner Platz</a> (see previous post of same name) one can adapt to, but this one? Uh-uh. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The Stuttgart Staatsoper is situated in the center of the city beside the palace gardens and next to the <a href="http://www9.landtag-bw.de/en/1.html">Landtag</a> building (State Legislature) of the German Federal State of Baden-Württemberg.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b>Stuttgart Staatsoper in springtime. A corner of the Landtag building is on the right.</b></i></td></tr>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0Stuttgart, Germany48.763431137917955 9.1625976562548.095067137917958 7.87170415625 49.431795137917952 10.45349115625tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-45817856534818276232013-06-17T23:39:00.002+02:002018-07-03T10:23:00.059+02:00University of Tübingen (Universität Tübingen) - an ancient tradition of learning<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">As I make my way out of Stuttgart (with return visits to be expected), I have found myself south of the city seeing other parts of this southern-most federal state in Germany - besides Bavaria next door, of course. This part of the state is the heart of Swabia (or Schwaben), where a dialect is spoken that not all in other parts of Germany may completely understand - certainly I don't - but of course, I am not a native speaker of German. </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">I found this ancient university a very special place. There is just way too much to photograph and post. I have chosen only a few of the shots I have taken. You will need to visit this place yourself to get the full effect and see some of the other angles that are missing in this posting.</span></span><br />
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It, like so much else in Germany, is worth the visit!</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><br /></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><i><u><br /></u></i></b></span></span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b><u>The University</u></b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;"><span style="font-size: large;">The University of Tübingen, known formally as <i>Eberhard Karls Universität Tübingen</i>, located in the state of Baden-Württemberg, Germany, is one of Europe's oldest institutes of higher learning. Founded in 1477 by Count (later Duke) Eberhard "the Bearded" of Württemberg, the school was opened with four faculties: Theology, Law, Medicine, and Philosophy. More faculties were added over the centuries</span>. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">Tübingen was the first German university to establish a university hospital in 1805, housing it in what is the university's oldest structure, dating back to 1478. This same building is still in use by the hospital today. 26,000 students from across the Federal Republic of Germany, Europe, and many corners of the world make up its diverse student body. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Ornate facade of the Tübingen Rathaus (City Hall)</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Half-timber joists found in so many of the medieval structure found in Tübingen</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Fountain in the Market Square</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Rathaus as seen from one of the many narrow streets</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><i>One of two smaller tributaries which flow directly through the city of Tübingen into the <br />Neckar River below the city</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">View of the Wilhelmsstift to the left</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;"><u>Schloss Hohentübingen</u></span></b><br />
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<span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif; font-size: large;">The center of the university "town" of 90,000 is still most reminiscent of the Middle Ages. Tübingen lies on and above the Neckar River, making its way up the hill toward the castle-fortress above the city. There, one will find <i>Schloß Hohentübingen</i>, begun in 1078, which is also used today as the university museum - a must-see for any visitor to Tübingen.</span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>Entrance to Schloß Hohentübingen</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Details of the entrance gate to the castle</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Schloß Hohentübingen</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>In the Castle courtyard</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>From the Castle</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">View of the Neckar River as taken from the Castle of Hohentübingen<br />looking in the direction of the Schwäbisch Alb</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">A "Stocherkahn", or punt, unique to Tübingen on the Neckar River</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">The beautiful allée that runs the length of Neckarinseln (Neckar Island)<br /> which is located in the middle of the Neckar River directly below the castle,<br />Schloß Hohentübingen</span></b></i></td></tr>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-37103763000137009382013-06-13T22:10:00.000+02:002018-07-03T09:59:06.379+02:00Tübingen - a university on the water<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>The Neckar River wends its way throughout the Württemberg region of southern Germany.<br />It has played an endearing role throughout the history not only of the university town<br />of Tübingen, but the entire region itself.</i></b></span></td></tr>
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<u><span style="color: blue; font-size: large;">Not unlike Venice</span></u></h3>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Punts have been a part of Tübingen's river-life and scenery for ages. Students, locals and tourists alike have long enjoyed these low-slung boats for cruising the lovely river, enjoying picnics, cocktails, a bottle of champagne, and even playing their musical instruments directly on these pleasure crafts as they slowly "pole" their way through the water.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Tübingen is most certainly worth the visit. It boasts one of the oldest universities in all of Germany, founded in 1477. (See the official website of the university for more information on the school: <a href="http://www.tuebingen.de/soziales">University of Tübingen</a> )</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">How to get there from Stuttgart, capital of the state of Baden-Württemberg: <a href="http://www.rome2rio.com/s/Nearby-Airports/T%C3%BCbingen">The Road to Tübingen</a></span></div>
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3224640713549830221.post-31780160081046561572013-06-11T22:33:00.001+02:002018-07-03T10:23:20.202+02:00BEBENHAUSEN - Where it all ended<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3TQn-j9SmI/T9-JGhqVF6I/AAAAAAAAA-k/qQSuNEOuBM0/s1600/IMG_1953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y3TQn-j9SmI/T9-JGhqVF6I/AAAAAAAAA-k/qQSuNEOuBM0/s640/IMG_1953.jpg" width="360" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;">King Wilhelm II and Queen Charlotte</span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><b>at the front door of their hunting lodge at</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><b>Bebenhausen, Württemberg</b></span></b></div>
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<b><span style="font-size: small;"><b><em>(1915)</em></b></span></b></div>
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<u><span style="font-size: large;">How it happened:</span></u></h2>
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<span style="font-size: large;">From Stuttgart to Bebenhausen</span></h2>
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<span style="font-weight: normal;">When the Kingdom of Württemberg ceased to exist in 1918, the country, already a part of the greater German Empire - now republic - became a "Freistaat", which, very basically, meant that it was not a monarchy. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">The last sovereigns </span><span style="text-align: center;">of the little kingdom</span><span style="text-align: center;">, King Wilhem II (</span><i style="text-align: center;">not</i><span style="text-align: center;"> to be confused with the German Kaiser [Emperor] of the same name,)</span><span style="text-align: center;"> and Queen Charlotte, left the capital of Stuttgart very quickly on the same fateful Saturday that the lightening-fast revolution took place. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">The First World War had just come to a close and there was confusion, hunger and all sorts of social issues that needed immediate attention. Other kingdoms, principalities and duchies within the now defunct German Empire were either toppling their rulers or the rulers themselves were frantically trying to figure out what immediate next steps they themselves needed to take in a land which up to this time had numerous "mini-monarchies"; everything was happening so fast - in some cases within a matter of days or hours. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">As for the Kingdom of Württemberg, the vast majority of the population did not have much issue with the monarch himself. King Wilhelm II had been loved by his people and was affectionately known as a citizen-king, who eschewed police protection as he walked his pet dogs freely through the streets of the capital. He was even greeted by the local Swabians as "Mr. King", for he was in no way an autocrat. He was nearing 70 years old as the revolution approached and he had been on the throne since 1891. Locals have indeed told me of their grandparents having spoken of being one of the many locals who would see His Majesty in the street when they themselves were</span><span style="text-align: center;"> children so long ago. They greeted him as he in turn would greet them. </span><span style="text-align: center;">It is true that the country was not a constitutional, democratic monarchy as monarchies in Europe are today, but a heavy-handed king with absolute power he was not. </span><br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">On that fateful, though otherwise quiet, Saturday morning in Stuttgart, King Wilhelm was holding a cabinet meeting in the small <i>Wilhemspalais</i> (Wilhelm Palace), located directly behind the large, opulent city palace</span><span style="text-align: center;">, or </span><i style="text-align: center;">Stadtschloß, </i><span style="text-align: center;">which was much too grand a residence for his taste. On that same morning, a labor</span><span style="text-align: center;"> demonstration had been planned to march through the city </span><span style="text-align: center;">at about the same time</span><span style="text-align: center;">. This demonstration boasted nothing about overthrowing the government, and certainly not the monarchy itself (although its demise was inevitable at some point as greater Germany was already in the throws of becoming republican in the post-war upheaval that was rapidly engulfing Germany overall. The Kaiser himself had already fled into exile in the Netherlands). As the demonstration made its way through the streets around to the front of the large square in front of the <i>Stadtschloß </i></span><span style="text-align: center;">in the city center, a rumor was </span><span style="text-align: center;">spread that the king had weapons hidden in his smaller palace, as well as extra food. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">One might think that having food, or </span><i style="text-align: center;">extra</i><span style="text-align: center;"> food, in one's home would not exactly be cause for an entire revolution - the Swabian monarchs were in no way comparable to the frivilous court of Louis XVI and Marie-Antoinette - but as the end of the war had brought such hardship to the country, and it was being said that the king had more than his share and perhaps the weapons to protect it, it was not much to get the already unhappy, war-weary crowd to go one step further. Some people began calling for the demonstration to go around to the </span><i style="text-align: center;">Wilhelmspalais</i><span style="text-align: center;"> to find out what the king was hiding in his home. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">As mentioned above, the king was in council at that time. Clearly, it can be noted that as this large demonstration was taking place, there had been no intent on the part of the king to even stop the demonstration - no troops were sent to disband it. That alone might demonstrate something about the "freedom" to hold demonstrations at that time. Nonetheless, there were in fact some revolutionaries in the crowd and they wanted trouble - and it was trouble that they got. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">King Wilhelm's small palace only had one policeman on guard duty that morning - again, another example of how unthreatened this otherwise popular king had always felt amongst his fellow Württembergers. The demonstrators and revolutionaries in the crowd demanded to enter and to check the kitchens and cellars for the extra food stuffs the king was alleged to have been hiding. An attempt was made to storm the palace. The poor policeman at the door did not abandon his post. He was roughed up trying to keep the crowd from entering until the king himself told the leaders of the crowd that not only did he <i>not</i> have extra food stores or weapons in his house, but that they could check it themselves if they did not believe him. And they did. </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">They found nothing, of course. Still, the leaders of the mob demanded the king's banner be lowered from the flagstaff above the palace and the red flag of revolution be hoisted in its stead. His Majesty absolutely refused. It is believed that the majority of the crowd had not expected this demonstration to turn into this, though I, personally, would assume that the revolutionary elements in the crowd had been planning for this to be the result. Still, the revolutionaries were demanding the change of flags. As things were becoming more heated, and in order to stop potential bloodshed of innocent people, the elderly king said that if they wanted to change the flag, then they had better do it themselves because he was certainly not going to be the one to do it!</span></div>
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And so it was. With his fellow monarchs falling all round him, he realized that he had little choice but to abdicate his throne. It was inevitable. But the king was personally devastated. He felt betrayed by his own people, especially the citizens of Stuttgart who did not come to his aid. The people had otherwise always seemed to love and respect their citizen Mr. King. It could, however, be assumed that more than the abdication itself, the king felt a personal hurt in the manner that it was carried out. He wrote out the act of abdication himself, stating that he would never stand in the way of the development of his country. Within a few hours, King Wilhelm II and Queen Charlotte left Stuttgart in a motorcar, forever, retiring to their personal residence of Bebenhausen, formerly an ancient monastery and the present royal hunting lodge, some kilometers south of the city not far from Tübingen. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMWAHXIXJ-ONNJiB78y_fcFXIYjSGYSGJKwPiYAq-pmTstNHVZS4zevbRwphtOLITePjHXNy0YzJPjP-x0i9q_tJ69wdiRAuRTiLheJxvtvDVUdtEXZjbcZDDSZ2s-I97eagMQcvfGTk/s1600/IMG_1904.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMWAHXIXJ-ONNJiB78y_fcFXIYjSGYSGJKwPiYAq-pmTstNHVZS4zevbRwphtOLITePjHXNy0YzJPjP-x0i9q_tJ69wdiRAuRTiLheJxvtvDVUdtEXZjbcZDDSZ2s-I97eagMQcvfGTk/s640/IMG_1904.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Jagdschloß</i> (Royal Hunting Lodge) of Bebenhausen as seen today. </span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><i>(The above black and white photo of the king and queen was taken in front of the door to the turret, above. </i></span></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">It was in this building that the Duke and Duchess of Württemberg [the former king and queen] lived </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">out their remaining days. The rooms can all be visited. They were left just as the royal </span></i></b><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">couple left them before they died, Queen Charlotte being the last in 1946.)</span></i></b></td></tr>
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King Wilhelm ceased to refer to himself as "king" and took his second title, that of Duke of Württemberg, instead. The king's heirs and descendants remain in Württemberg to this day, living in a former royal residence not terribly far from the Swiss border.</div>
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One thing that should be noted, is that all the while this little revolution was taking place on that otherwise sleepy Saturday morning in the middle of Stuttgart, the vast majority of the citizens were still waking up or tending to their Saturday-morning chores. Funny as this may sound, the majority had absolutely no idea their king was being deposed. By the time King Wilhelm, now Duke of Württmeberg, was being chauffeured to Bebenhausen, the city of Stuttgart was still waking up to what had just happened. When all was said and done, the vast majority of the people were apparently shocked. Many felt a sense of remorse that they had not done anything to help the king. As stated above, King Wilhelm felt betrayed. It has been noted that people even sent food to Bebenhausen for the king because they felt sorry for him and felt bad for not having somehow helped him. They were even more concerned that the now ex-king and queen would be hungry! Ah, the dear, unpretentious Swabians. It was November 30, 1918: this royal pair had held on longer than all their royal counterparts throughout the former empire. </div>
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The Duke and Duchess were not completely forgotten. There was no reason to exile the royal family. The new state granted them a stipend on which to retire, popular as they had been. Their private residences, such as Bebenhausen and a few others were not confiscated from them. The <i>Stadtschloß</i> (this would also be considered as the official "royal palace"), however, went into state ownership along with the <i>Wilhelmspalais</i> and several other major palaces. </div>
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King Wilhem only lived another three years, dying on October 2, 1921, at 73 years old. Having declared never to return to Stuttgart ever again, his funeral cortege made its way from Bebenhausen, south of Stuttgart, to his final resting place north of the city at Ludwigsburg Palace, where his ancestors, first wife and two of his children (one of whom was stillborn, and the other, who died in infancy) were also buried. His instructions were that the cortege not pass through Stuttgart, which would have been a more direct route. It did not. It went around the city through Feuerbach instead. Many lined the streets along the way to see the cortege as it made its way to Ludwigsburg. The republican government in Berlin even sent an honor guard to accompany the dead king to the cemetery. The plot where the king and his family are buried is quite simple for people of such royal heritage. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oyqIOHi9qFY/UbT2xFgt-PI/AAAAAAAABIo/Ia95Q4jm_Oo/s1600/Cimg7100.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oyqIOHi9qFY/UbT2xFgt-PI/AAAAAAAABIo/Ia95Q4jm_Oo/s400/Cimg7100.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">Wilhelm II<br />King of Württemberg<br />Born 25 February 1848<br />Died 3 October 1921</span></b></i></td></tr>
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Queen Charlotte, a friendly but shy, down-to-earth woman who preferred to stay out of the limelight as much as possible, lived on at Bebenhausen until her own death in July 1946. She was buried very quietly in Ludwigsburg next to her husband. The duchess outlived all other kings and queens of the former German monarchies. King Friederich August of Saxony had died in 1932 and the last queen of Prussia in 1921.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Queen Charlotte's simple gravestone in Ludwigsburg</span><br /><br /><i><span style="font-size: small;">Charlotte<br />of Württemberg<br />born Princess of Schaumburg-Lippe<br />Born 10 October 1864<br />Died 16 July 1946</span></i></b></td></tr>
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During my own visit to Bebenhausen in 2012, a friend and I were fortunate to meet an elderly woman who was native to the village. She casually recalled the lovely old lady who lived with her ladies-in-waiting in the walls of the little hunting-lodge palace. Of her recollections, she told us that she recalled being told by her mother that she was to always address the lady as <i>Ihre Majestät</i> (Your Majesty), and that she was to curtsey whenever meeting her. She told me she didn't want to do that; after all, what child wants to have to do such a thing.<br />
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She remembered fondly of sometimes seeing the queen about the garden and grounds into which the local children of the little village would often sneak in order to play hide-and-seek and other games. The ladies-in-waiting were friendly but always reminded the children to play quietly. When she encountered the queen, Her Majesty would ask the little girl about her brothers, <i><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">"Ach, die Knaben mit den himmelblauen </span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">A</span><span style="font-family: "times" , "times new roman" , serif;">ugen!"</span></i> ("Oh, the boys with the heavenly blue eyes!"). Apparently, the queen, who was childless, was quite fond of children. She had met the little boys and was quite taken with their blue eyes, and would often enquire about them.<br />
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Queen Charlotte would also make visits on her birthday or Christmas to the little schoolhouse and bring fruits and other gifts of food for the children. It was a big thing during the times of austerity during the Weimar Republic and World War II. What a pleasure it was to meet someone who had known the last German queen and was able to relate these and other lovely anecdotes about her.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Graves of the immediate members of King Wilhelm II's<br />family at rest in Ludwigsburg, just north of Stuttgart.</span></b></td></tr>
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<b><span style="font-size: x-large;"><i>Bebenhausen Abbey and Royal Hunting Lodge</i></span></b></h2>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><b><span style="font-size: small;">View of the Abbey / Hunting Palace, <i> </i></span></b><br />
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<i><b><span style="font-size: small;">located in the Schönbuch Forest between the ancient university town of Tübingen and the city of Stuttgart, </span></b></i><i><b><span style="font-size: small;">capital of the present-day federal state of Baden-Württemberg in southern Germany.</span></b></i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Entrance to the ancient Abbey of Bebenhausen</span></b><br />
<b><span style="font-size: small;"><br /><i>Before becoming a royal hunting lodge, Bebenhausen had been a</i><br /><i>boarding school as well as an abbey. It was originally built around 1180</i><br /><i>for Cistercian monks. It remained a cloistered community until 1560 when the Reformation</i><br /><i>was spreading throughout Germany. </i></span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YnId-UWVX2E/T9-H-iMLNOI/AAAAAAAAA70/JmJiPD0aeU4/s400/IMG_1881.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="400" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">A large segment of the wall remains around the abbey as seen<br />in these two photographs.</span></td></tr>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YnId-UWVX2E/T9-H-iMLNOI/AAAAAAAAA70/JmJiPD0aeU4/s1600/IMG_1881.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_g4m9sFVYxqQvN1AU8A1N_pMUeTsOKzo5m67BncpF-e7fPifzIDZkjJxv96lRSof5NgTjwPWWbUEhg8_revXYqGOzeOgoP6AK2e0yQBdR3lCEgJIFAGHQh-iM0NKTZXBKRoCkV4FGHOs/s1600/IMG_1913.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; display: inline !important; font-size: 13px; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_g4m9sFVYxqQvN1AU8A1N_pMUeTsOKzo5m67BncpF-e7fPifzIDZkjJxv96lRSof5NgTjwPWWbUEhg8_revXYqGOzeOgoP6AK2e0yQBdR3lCEgJIFAGHQh-iM0NKTZXBKRoCkV4FGHOs/s400/IMG_1913.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The cloister of the abbey as seen today</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Cloister</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Ceiling of the former Refectory</span></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><b><span style="font-size: small;">Part of the wall that once completely surrounded the Abbey</span></b></td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b>Student dormitory </b></span></h4>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><b><i>After the Abbey was disbanded, it later became a school for boys. </i></b><b><i>Rooms where the monks once lived became a dormitory for the students. </i></b><b><i>One can only imagine winters here as there was no heating.</i></b></span></h4>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption"><b><span style="font-size: small;">The Writer's Tower as seen from the upper garden</span></b><span style="text-align: left;"> </span></td></tr>
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What I found most interesting were the "House Rules" (in German) on a kitchen wall. One of the rules was that all staff members must remember toonly speak on the grounds or in the upstairs royal rooms when they are spoken to by higher-ups or the Duke or Duchess themselves. Otherwised, silence or "quiet" was expected. Such was life in service at that time.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><i>Writer's Tower<br />as seen from a kitchen window</i></b></td></tr>
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It is worth mentioning that the buildings that housed the royal couple still have the kitchens in place. It is most interesting to see how the "downstairs" people lived and worked before 1946. The stoves and other apparatus that were used in the service area are original and are also on display. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;"><b><i><span style="font-size: small;">Ceilings and chandeliers in the formal Dining Room</span></i></b></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><b><span style="font-size: small;"><i>To the memory of<br />Württembergs beloved King<br />WILHEM II<br />(Born) Stuttgart, 25 Feb. 1848 - 2 Oct. 1921 (at Bebenhausen)<br />and QUEEN CHARLOTTE<br />(Born) Ratiboritz, 10 Oct. 1864 - 16 July 1946, (at Bebenhausen)</i></span></b></td></tr>
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<i><span style="font-size: x-large;">The village surrounding the Royal Hunting Lodge and former abbey of Bebenhausen</span></i></h2>
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<strong>Most all of the village is <em>Fachwerk</em> (half-timbered). Note the stream running through the central "square" of the village, directly outside of the main gate of the abbey-palace.</strong></div>
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Visiting the hamlet of Bebenhausen is completely worth the trip for anyone who appreciates not only history, but also hiking, walking, photography and simply a lovely day out in nature. Autumn is also a perfect time to go as the trees create a different ambience throughout the village. Although I have given little focus to the abbey's church here (the beautiful spire was completely covered with scaffolding for renovations, so I avoided having that "modern mess" in any of my shots), it is most definitely worth the visit. Guided tours are offered and a visitor's center in the middle of the abbey complex is quite helpful.</div>
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<a href="https://maps.google.com/maps?client=safari&oe=UTF-8&ie=UTF-8&gl=&daddr=Bebenhausen,+Germany&saddr=Stuttgart,+Germany&panel=1&f=d&fb=1&dirflg=d&geocode=KdOPrcE025lHMeTPkXccwdV5%3BKZ-Djln-5JlHMX1UoCIYVr5P&ei=ooi3UfmqDoTYtAbVu4Bw&ved=0CCwQ-A8wAA">How to get to Bebenhausen from Stuttgart</a><br />
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John Jayhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14049043067379606342noreply@blogger.com0